Varnish blues

[UNCIVILIZED]

Have you tried the option of hiring some local, quality professional critiquing & advisement? For your technique, equipment, & products choices.

[MarkSF]

Originally Posted by pwilletts

Thanks all....my wood is filled and has more and more layers on it as I sand them down and start again,,,all work is in 70-75 degrees and quickly put in a sealed area to avoid dust,,,,,been using paint thinner as a solvent...might have to upgrade that...got some nice fine synthetic brushes but see no difference,,,,foam seems to have fewer bubbles but seems inconsistent...using pettit and ephinies both straight and thinned ,,,,much experimentation, no good results...not sure where to go at this point

I think I tried using ordinary paint thinner once, and the results were horrible. You need Pettit T10 or Interlux 333.

[Jim Cate]

I'm only an amateur varnisher, but have found that adding some Penetrol, perhaps 15-20%, improves flow out for me. Started this practice after noticing some very successful pros use it.. FWIW!

Jim

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

I'm only an amateur varnisher, but have found that adding some Penetrol, perhaps 15-20%, improves flow out for me. Started this practice after noticing some very successful pros use it.. FWIW!

Jim

I certainly do, for Epifanes anyway. That stuff is super thick, more of a base to allow you to reduce as needed for any conditions. The Epifanes thinner is awesome, I use it for other brands as well. It's the best thinner out there.

IMHO, the OP should switch to Awlspar reduced 10-20% with Epifanes thinner. Very very user friendly. If you can't get a nice finish with that, your doing something wrong.


However, Awlspar is a standard spar varnish. Epifanes is what is known as a "long spar varnish". This is why it's finicky to work with, and why it sucks to sand on (super gummy). It's the softest varnish out there. Unfortunately, these features which cause it to be a pain to work with are also what cause it to last longer than other varnishes without failure. Because it's more flexible, less brittle, takes longer to crack at joints.

As a result, I sometimes do all build coats in Epifanes (fourteen coats at least), then finish with a coat or two of something easier to work with that has higher gloss, like Awlspar. This gives the amber color of an Epifanes job, with lots of depth, higher gloss, superior gloss retention, better UV protection, etc etc.

Of course the next step up is either Awlwood (have four boats done in this now) or the Ultimate Brightwork System from Awlgrip (Awlbrite over Awlspar).

[zeehag]

varnish ptui. is awesome for unused boats but i use mine. a lot.
i just had someone do my teakwood..all 140 running feet of it-- with sea water and oil finish for 1200 pesos. looks great and only takes 6 hours time to effect. lasts one year has a hard shell and looks good.
\whats not to love. all ye gotta do my way is clean wood goood. dirt makes blackness which is ugly. that is not mold but uncleaned wood.
damn i am gorgeous. AND protected from the heavy tropical rains.
i figure there are so many other areas needing attention i donot need to mess around with time consuming issues made of my own vanity.
as my hands have deteriorated i hired a local worker friend to do this work. he was impressed with the lack of labor intensive work it takes to make wood gorgeous.
is your own choice.
ps when i used to varnish i learned the bubbles come from an overzealous mixing technique.\have fun. i am already done and we just started 5 hours ago. the finish is PERFECT. totally without flaw.
i am pleased and my workerbee is impressed with my smarts, as all others pay 4000 usd for their varnish work. i paid 80 usd. i win. no peeling no bubbles no shredding and no flaws. damn i am smart.
not quite as smart as minaret, however. he is really smart. but i donot varnish.

[Flyingriki]

Sea water and oil.....interesting combination!

[zeehag]

Originally Posted by Flyingriki

Sea water and oil.....interesting combination!

salt water cleans and helps teak rehydrate, then oil maintains its beauty and health and watertightness. no varnish needed. dries fast and quick application. can even do it underway. amazing, eh.imagine that. bubbles soak into the wood with the oil and when done it looks fahhhhbulousssss

[Cheechako]

I'm guessing it's heat. Never thinned varnish for wood in my life. But I'm in the PNW. The bubbles should fair out and disappear.
Yeah, take that tiller in the house and redo it.

[Gary Mc]

I think you might find the Varsol works well, especially since it get its name from Varnish Solvent.

Gary

[SailingFan]

Originally Posted by zeehag

salt water cleans and helps teak rehydrate, then oil maintains its beauty and health and watertightness. no varnish needed. dries fast and quick application. can even do it underway. amazing, eh.imagine that. bubbles soak into the wood with the oil and when done it looks fahhhhbulousssss

Huh! I may try that!! Nothing to lose, since I am considering pulling the teak anyway and replacing it with something else.

By the way, what sort of oil are you using? My vessel's PO left teak oil and several other chemical cans on board, but if there is something else that is used, I would love to know about it!