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Old 26-04-2013, 18:26   #1
JRM
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Valiant 40 Refit

I've been so busy working on the boat that I've ignored my blog entirely and been rather remiss in posting stuff here. I'm headed back for marathon back to back shifts at the salt mine, but here's a couple of photos from the weeks work...

The survey noted delamination in the chainplate knees, mostly on the starboard side. They're an integral part of the interior bulkheads and cabinetry on my boat as opposed to individual knees like many other Valiants. After removing the delaminates veneers, I found mostly solid wood underneath, which was a pleasant surprise. I soaked them all in CPES anyway, as suggested by the surveyor for insurance purposes. I did, however, have one massively ruined bit, which I decided to replace with G10 instead of plywood. Here are the results...

The rotten piece. Nothing square about it.
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The rough pieces hot off the table saw
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Working on final shaping and fitting, holes drilled.
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Temporarily fit in its new home awaiting epoxy.
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I'm still debating whether I want to do the same on the port side, even though the plywood original there is still solid.

JRM

-- this is a small bit of a pretty massive refit. I'll try to take more before and after pictures, but when I get on a roll it's hard to stop for photos.
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Old 06-05-2013, 21:06   #2
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These photos don't show it well, but I redid the tabbing on a section. It went really well, I think the key was cutting, dry fitting, trimming, and wetting out all the pieces before starting application.

Here's the pre cut bits. The board is a piece of old headliner I took out for access. Waste not, want not ;-)
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Here is the after. I can see a couple spots where I didn't grind the old radius curve down enough, but I'm happy with the results for a first time.
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This was after I drilled and saturated with CPES. I gave it five days to cure, then sanded a bit. I think I might need to add one layer of stitched matt / cloth the rebuild the thickness from the removed veneer.

JRM
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Old 06-05-2013, 21:23   #3
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Re: Valiant 40 Refit

Over the winter I went through the process of replacing the chainplates on my 1977 V40-169, Touchstone. All of mine except for the forward one on the port side are bolted to bulkheads glassed to the hull. The bulkheads were all in good condition in spite of some periodic leakage. The chainplates were not original so they did not look bad either but I replaced them anyways. To prevent leaks in the future I built up one inch high fiberglass blocks to fit over the chainplates on the deck. These are glued to the deck with 5200 and the space around the chainplates is filled with 4200. This gives me over one inch of sealer around the chainplates. I don't think they will ever leak again. By the way, my new chainplates are titanium so I don't think they will need removal for inspection either. Best of luck with your project.
Gordon
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Old 06-05-2013, 21:55   #4
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Re: Valiant 40 Refit

What is G10?
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Old 06-05-2013, 22:16   #5
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Re: Valiant 40 Refit

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Originally Posted by Cherp View Post
What is G10?
Basically fiberglass that was set with epoxy resin. Very tough stuff.
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Old 06-05-2013, 23:24   #6
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Originally Posted by gordwedman View Post
To prevent leaks in the future I built up one inch high fiberglass blocks to fit over the chainplates on the deck. These are glued to the deck with 5200 and the space around the chainplates is filled with 4200. This gives me over one inch of sealer around the chainplates. I don't think they will ever leak again. By the way, my new chainplates are titanium so I don't think they will need removal for inspection either. Best of luck with your project.
Gordon
Thanks. Sounds like some good work. My chain plates are fairly new giant upgraded monsters, so I'm keeping them.

Funny you should mention the chain plate plinths. I've made templates for them, and as soon as I finish this marathon work shift from hell I'm going to fabricate them.

I took some pictures of my progress this time...

The aft lower and staysail split backstay holes
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Tape over them and trace the outline of the covers
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Use a razor blade to cut the holes to shape
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Figure out where the edge of the plinth should be
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Transfer everything to the appropriately sized cardboard template
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To keep it easy on myself, the upper and forward lower plates are going to be the same, just turned 180 degrees orientation from each other, that way I can make all four the same. Ok, that makes no sense when I write it, but when I finish hopefully the photos will explain.

They're going to be made from 1/4" G-10 left over from the bulkhead project.

I ended up working 192 hours in the last 10 days, and the two days I didn't work were filled with baseball practice for the boy, a game, and tryouts for the little league all star team. This life I have is really starting to impact my boat projects :-).

JRM
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Old 08-05-2013, 16:02   #7
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I know this is a small thing, but I have a working depth sounder. Which means that the whole network must be working, since I'm getting sounder info to the plotter.

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Old 08-05-2013, 21:55   #8
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Re: Valiant 40 Refit

Quote:
Originally Posted by JRM View Post
Thanks. Sounds like some good work. My chain plates are fairly new giant upgraded monsters, so I'm keeping them.

Funny you should mention the chain plate plinths. I've made templates for them, and as soon as I finish this marathon work shift from hell I'm going to fabricate them.

I took some pictures of my progress this time...

The aft lower and staysail split backstay holes
Attachment 60472

Tape over them and trace the outline of the covers
Attachment 60473

Use a razor blade to cut the holes to shape
Attachment 60474

Figure out where the edge of the plinth should be
Attachment 60477

Transfer everything to the appropriately sized cardboard template
Attachment 60475

To keep it easy on myself, the upper and forward lower plates are going to be the same, just turned 180 degrees orientation from each other, that way I can make all four the same. Ok, that makes no sense when I write it, but when I finish hopefully the photos will explain.

They're going to be made from 1/4" G-10 left over from the bulkhead project.

I ended up working 192 hours in the last 10 days, and the two days I didn't work were filled with baseball practice for the boy, a game, and tryouts for the little league all star team. This life I have is really starting to impact my boat projects :-).

JRM

If you could make those plinths half inch thick that would be even better. I really had the impression that the chainplates would always eventually leak if I relied on sealing at the deck and the stainless plates that went down over the chainplates. I say this because there was very little space between the chainplates and the deck into which sealer could go. Now I think my chainplates are a bit thicker so that might have reduce the space available for sealer but it still did not look like a good seal could be made. I think I have 3/16 to 1/4 inch of space all around the chainplates inside my plinths. Lots of sealer went into that space. This was all done after I sealed them at the deck so I think they are pretty water tight. I have noticed that in rough weather there is usually several inches of water sloshing around on the deck. It does not readily drain away so the deck to chainplate joint is under water at this time. Good sealing is really needed.
You are lucky to have that G10 material. I have never heard of it. Not cheap I imagine?
I had to fabricate my half inch thick pieces of fiberglass from some scap a neighbour was able to get me from the fiberglass tank manufacturing plant he works at. They were uneven on one side and only one quarter inch thick so I made up a half inch high trough into which I placed all the pieces (4x6 inches) and then spread thickened epoxy over them to produce a flat surface. I now had a bunch of 4x6 x 1/2 inch pieces which I epoxied together to make 1 inch blocks. I then drilled out the slots and smoothed them out with a dremel type tool. Almost as much work as making the new chainplates which I made from titanium flat stock I found on eBay. Should all last as long as the rest of the boat now.
Gordon
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Old 02-07-2013, 18:41   #9
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Have been remiss with the photos...

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New battery cables and connections. It's 1/0 cable with adhesive lines heat shrink. The labels are from my label maker, and covered with clear heat shrink tubing. As I'm redoing most of the large cables, I'm labeling everything with what it's attached to on the other end...

JRM

Oh, the topcoat is getting sprayed on the mast tomorrow. Now I know why Minaret calls the log board torture...
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Old 16-07-2013, 16:50   #10
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IT IS ALIVE!!!


After all the battery and wiring replacement, I fired up the old girl today and she ran like a champ! And the alternator even worked, which means the external regulator wasn't functioning anyway.

I'm so excited. I'm meeting the rigger on Thursday, and if my Tef-gel and rivets show up on Wednesday like they should, I may have a fighting chance of stepping my mast by next week! He's going to evaluate my standing rigging and help me tune it during the stepping. I know I'm going to regret it later, but if I don't finish installing all the mast hardware, I'm going to step it anyway so I can sail again. Remind me I said this when I'm hanging in a harness trying to put the mast steps back on!

JRM

-- I have some photos, I'll try and post them up at some point...
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Old 16-07-2013, 17:11   #11
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Re: Valiant 40 Refit

What year is your boat and what hull number? Also curious about the engine.
cheers,
Gordon
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Old 19-07-2013, 16:36   #12
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What year is your boat and what hull number? Also curious about the engine.
cheers,
Gordon
It's a 1975 vintage, and is hull #114, I think the major production run started at #100.

The engine is, I believe, a Westerbeke 4.107. It's not the original block, however, as the serial numbers don't match.

JRM
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Old 22-07-2013, 17:32   #13
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Re: Valiant 40 Refit

JRM- I don't want to rain on your parade, but delamation in the deck is what started all your problems, if you don't get it fixed now you will just have more problems in a couple of years. Mine # 119, got a complete new deck in 08. I took it up to Bellingham and had the original guys that had made her redo it. Don't regret the decision at all. I also (in 2010) put a Beta in and dumped the 107. Almost went electric but the technology is not quite there. Dry clean bilges mean alot to me .
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Old 23-07-2013, 00:01   #14
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JRM- I don't want to rain on your parade, but delamation in the deck is what started all your problems, if you don't get it fixed now you will just have more problems in a couple of years. Mine # 119, got a complete new deck in 08. I took it up to Bellingham and had the original guys that had made her redo it. Don't regret the decision at all. I also (in 2010) put a Beta in and dumped the 107. Almost went electric but the technology is not quite there. Dry clean bilges mean alot to me .
No rain :-). I know the decks are an issue, I just can't fix everything at once. The decks are on the schedule for this winter. I plan on doing them a section at a time. They definitely need doing, but the mast and the chainplate knees needed doing more.

JRM

-- scheduled the crane for 2:30 tomorrow afternoon. Hopefully I'll have a sailboat again tomorrow!
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Old 26-07-2013, 12:15   #15
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Re: Valiant 40 Refit

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Originally Posted by JRM View Post
It's a 1975 vintage, and is hull #114, I think the major production run started at #100.

The engine is, I believe, a Westerbeke 4.107. It's not the original block, however, as the serial numbers don't match.

JRM

That's a pretty early boat. Must be pre-blister era? Mine is #169, 1977 vintage, and I have blisters here and there plus evidence of old ones repaired. Boat generally looks good though. I have a Westerbeke 40 which I understand is basically a Perkins 4-108. Runs well and I have no intention of removing it unless it stops running. Got my mast re-installed at the end of May with new standing rigging and some other related work. All my major work is now done but I'll still be busy this winter with some electronics installations and optimizing my storage.
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