Trying to Sell, but these $'s for adjustments seem excessive, a little help please

[Seas The Moment]

I am fortunate (or unfortunate) to own two boats a 423 Beneteau (2004) and a 473 (2002). The 423 is currently in the last phase of being sold. The surveyor found some issues that the buyers want some sales adjustment dollars for fixing. I'm assuming they are not going to be doing the work themselves, but pay to have it done. So my thoughts are that the prices include labor (San Diego, CA area).
One major issue is the Yanmar 3JH4-e (under 1000 hours) is not getting to its manufacturer reccommended (at least what the broker is indicating) RPM of 3800. It appears to be 400 short. The broker does not know if it is the davit and 11' Achilles w/18 HP outboard on the stern that decreasing the RPM. I did replace the 3 blade prop with a 3 blade flexi-fold 3 years ago, and I don't believe that I've ever seen 3800 RPM. The other issue could be general maintance, had diesel mechanic check on everything 3 years ago, and it has been in the slip since August 2017.
Another major issue listed below is the cutlass appears to have loose play where it does wooble. They tell me that cannot get a grip on it to pull out, so the shaft has to be pulled and it needs to be cut out, and then the hull re-glassed.
So three questions: 1. What are your thoughts on the RPM's, is it something simple like dirty injectors, fuel restricted or just a bad pitch on the flexi-fold? 2. Do the costs associated with the line items below seem reasonable, if not what would you recommend?
3. If they cannot get a grip on the cutlass bearing to pull it out, do you have a reccommended procedure other than cutting it out of the bottom?

Thanks for your help

REPLACE EXHAUST MIXING ELBOW . . . . . . . . . . . $950.00
REPLACE OIL COOLER CORRODED ON BOTH ENDS . . . . $900.00
REPLACE BATTERY CHARGER BREAKER . . . . . . . . . . $55.00
REPLACE CUTLASS BEARING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1,100.00
FWD Y-VALVE LEAKING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $200.00
AFT HEAD SHOWER PUMP INOP . . . . . . . . . . . . $375.00
FWD HEAD DISCHARGE VALVE CORRODED . . . . . . . . $400.00
REPLACE PROP ZINC ALMOST GONE . . . . . . . . . . $50.00
REPLACE CRACKED OUTHAUL SHEAVE INBOARD OF BOOM $150.00

[sailorchic34]

1. In my mind the 400 rpm is a non issue. There is probably nothing wrong with the engine. 400 RPM is nothing. A bit of growth on the prop, prop pitch being slightly off, old Diesel or even a slightly off calibration of the tach could be the cause. At under 1000 hours the yanmar is not even broken in yet. If it starts easy and does not smoke at it's max achieved RPM, then it's most likely fine. Now if it was 800 or 1000 rpm slow then it might be something. 400 RPM is not even a worry.


2. Prices seem high but then for marine labor they may be in line. Specially for SD.

3. On cutlass bearing, Many times the prop shaft needs to be removed to pull the cutlass bearing anyway. Then a puller is run though and is used to tap out the bearing. Depending on the configuration it could get spendy, though I would think less then $1000. Bearing is $200 ish.. Sometimes the cutlass bearing has to be cut out but that's not a huge time sink. Removing the prop, inside flange and shaft does take a bit of time. If they are careful I would not expect any fiberglassing.

[Woodland Hills]

If you are 400 rpm low on the WOT no load test, there is something wrong. Davits, tenders or props have nothing to do with this test of engine health.

[JPA Cate]

I don't know, but it took us 18 months to sell a boat one time....Dock fees the whole time, plus the effort of keeping it up when we had a new toy to play with.

Many of those items on your list are relatively easy DIY ones. How long have you been paying double berthing?

I'd do the easy ones, and let them have something off the selling price, and be done with it. Ultimately, all we have is time, and every hour you spend on the old boat is one you don't spend with the new one.

Ann

[Seas The Moment]

The RPM test was probably during a sea trial while they were underway, not with the transmission disengaged. So the issue of the wait squatting the stern does come into play, somewhat.

[Kenomac]

“Seas the Moment” and sell at the disounted price. Don’t quibble over $1,000 or so; consider yourself fortunate to have sold the boat. The next buyer might want an even larger adjustment.

[Seas The Moment]

_1000 or so is not an issue, but this is adding up to over 4k. That is nothing to smeeze at, IMHO.

[Kenomac]

Originally Posted by Seas The Moment

_1000 or so is not an issue, but this is adding up to over 4k. That is nothing to smeeze at, IMHO.

It doesn’t appear to me that you did your pre-sale homework, and now you’re complaining about the buyer having discovered some legit issues. Why didn’t you check the anode or shower pump beforehand? ‘Just inspected mine earlier today while prepping the 53 for sale.

Yeah it really sucked spending 20 minutes diving under the boat in the murky freshwater marina, but now I shouldn’t have any surprises. Also repaired all the aircon and diesel heat I’ve never used along with a few bent stachions.

Now a future buyer will purchase a boat with everything as it should be... in good working order. And no excuses.

[Orion Jim]

If you're tired of being a two boat owner, sell. Inform the prospective buyer that you want a non-refundable deposit within 48 hours and the full purchase amount in 10 business days. If he is a real buyer he will close the deal, if not let him nickel and dime some other seller.
Owning two boats can get very expensive, very quickly.

[roberttigar]

I helped a frieind remove a chewed up cutless beaing from a 331. The outer rubber edge was gone. We split a length of pvc pipe in half, and secured it around the shaft on the inside, pulled the prop and slid the pvc back and forth on the inside until the bearing popped out. Might require a mallet to "tap" it out. Bob

[Bruce Beard]

Drop the price by the $4000 and say good bye to the boat!
Often times the first good offer is the best offer.
As mentioned, the price of keeping the boat could easily exceed money you are worried about.
Sell it!

[Valmika]

If you don't mind me asking what was the asking price. I like those 423's. On another note I had a yard in King Harbor tell me that their "chief mechanic" said I needed to drop my rudder to get the prop shaft out and replaced my cutlass bearing. By the time I got down there the top part of the rudder was disconnected but not the bottom. I immediately pulled the shaft back, dropped it down a little turned the rudder and pulled it out. It took all of 48 seconds. Take yard prices with a grain of salt especially in California. BTW, my cutlass on the Beneteau 38 had to be pulled out with a puller. We did not find a set screw

[erie]

Originally Posted by Seas The Moment

I am fortunate (or unfortunate) to own two boats a 423 Beneteau (2004) and a 473 (2002). The 423 is currently in the last phase of being sold. The surveyor found some issues that the buyers want some sales adjustment dollars for fixing. I'm assuming they are not going to be doing the work themselves, but pay to have it done. So my thoughts are that the prices include labor (San Diego, CA area).
One major issue is the Yanmar 3JH4-e (under 1000 hours) is not getting to its manufacturer reccommended (at least what the broker is indicating) RPM of 3800. It appears to be 400 short. The broker does not know if it is the davit and 11' Achilles w/18 HP outboard on the stern that decreasing the RPM. I did replace the 3 blade prop with a 3 blade flexi-fold 3 years ago, and I don't believe that I've ever seen 3800 RPM. The other issue could be general maintance, had diesel mechanic check on everything 3 years ago, and it has been in the slip since August 2017.
Another major issue listed below is the cutlass appears to have loose play where it does wooble. They tell me that cannot get a grip on it to pull out, so the shaft has to be pulled and it needs to be cut out, and then the hull re-glassed.
So three questions: 1. What are your thoughts on the RPM's, is it something simple like dirty injectors, fuel restricted or just a bad pitch on the flexi-fold? 2. Do the costs associated with the line items below seem reasonable, if not what would you recommend?
3. If they cannot get a grip on the cutlass bearing to pull it out, do you have a reccommended procedure other than cutting it out of the bottom?

Thanks for your help

REPLACE EXHAUST MIXING ELBOW . . . . . . . . . . . $950.00
REPLACE OIL COOLER CORRODED ON BOTH ENDS . . . . $900.00
REPLACE BATTERY CHARGER BREAKER . . . . . . . . . . $55.00
REPLACE CUTLASS BEARING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1,100.00
FWD Y-VALVE LEAKING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $200.00
AFT HEAD SHOWER PUMP INOP . . . . . . . . . . . . $375.00
FWD HEAD DISCHARGE VALVE CORRODED . . . . . . . . $400.00
REPLACE PROP ZINC ALMOST GONE . . . . . . . . . . $50.00
REPLACE CRACKED OUTHAUL SHEAVE INBOARD OF BOOM $150.00

Why dont you contact Yanmar directly ..

[Jetx]

Originally Posted by Seas The Moment

One major issue is the Yanmar 3JH4-e (under 1000 hours) is not getting to its manufacturer reccommended (at least what the broker is indicating) RPM of 3800. It appears to be 400 short.

I have the same 3JH4E engine, and I think the surveyor or broker has the wrong numbers. According to the service manual, the max no-load RPM for this engine is 3325 +/- 25. If the boat is correctly propped and bottom is clean, you should ideally see somewhere between 3000-3200 rpm at WOT under load.

[Seas The Moment]

I want to thank everyone for all of their comments. They have all been extremely educational.

To respond to some of the questions posed to me in this thread, the asking price was 165k. The reason I did not do a pre-check is because I've been sailing in Mexico on my other boat while it was on the market. As far as the zinc was concerned, I pay a diver monthly to clean my bottom and replace the anodes. They still had at least one month to go, and to be honest with you my feeling on that is similar to having your engine oil 1/2 quart low. It's ongoing maintenance.

All three parties have negotiated a give-and-take, the buyer the seller and the broker. With each individual compromising a little, we now have a deal in the process of finalization paperwork.

I really love this forum, all comments regardless of there criticism or encouragement. It helps me be a better sailor.

Thanks again for everyone's help