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Old 15-07-2008, 15:51   #1
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To wax or not to wax (Epoxied Steel Hull)

I recently completed the top side and hull (three coats two part epoxy) of my steel ketch. Its looking very nice....I am please with it. I now have to decide what method to use to protect the job done.

What suggestions would you have to finish it...if any; and what product/s would you recommend.

As always your input would be greatly appreciated.

Best Regards

Alan
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Old 15-07-2008, 17:05   #2
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This may seem somewhat callous, given all the work you probably have performed, but I would recommend topcoating your epoxy paint with linear polurethane enamel. Consider the epoxy as a secure substrate over the steel, then use the LPU as the final finish. Epoxy paint will break down in tropical sunlight MUCH faster than LPU, it doesn't have the color retention, surface flexibility, or longevity of LPU. It is hard and will resist mechanical abrasion, but the LPU will even outperform it. In time the epoxy will begin to chalk and pick up surface stains, though it will remain a tough base for the LPU. You haven't lost anything, only gained longevity and attractiveness from the high gloss of the LPU.
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Old 15-07-2008, 17:24   #3
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hi all i would have to agree with roy m with his findings i painted my tri 4yrs ago with an epoxy based two pack and my paint job is indeed chalky and it has a streaked line finish from gunnel to boot top i will be using an enamel paint finish myself in the not to distant future hope this has been of help regards andy
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Old 15-07-2008, 17:45   #4
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Thanks for the quick response..... I should have asked the question sooner. I wanted the boat back in the water in Feb, but a number of (Murphy) supply delays had... as always with boats...screwed the timetable. In fact we prept and painted over three weekends, which at this time of year here (rainy season) was unusual.

However good advice should be acted upon so I shall explore the possibilities.

Thanks

Alan
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Old 15-07-2008, 19:15   #5
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I would agree about LPU on the topsides, but not on the hull below the boot stripe.
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Old 15-07-2008, 21:24   #6
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One Pack...

After trying a two pack polyurethane I decided to go with the single pack poly.
Reasons 1) Way less toxic, esp. hardener and solvent.
2) Much more convenient to use for small jobs.
3) No danger of confusing hardeners (don't ask).
4) Finish is still acceptable (to me).
5) (and best of all) My wife will use it.
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Old 16-07-2008, 09:52   #7
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Thanks for all your replies,

The time/weather window is becoming critical. If I get a good weekend, then its possible....If so would you be kind enough to give me your thoughts re the one or two part. I know the former will be easier and under the circumstances maybe the best compromise... But could someone attempt to measure for me, what I would be giving up as to longlevity etc.

Secondly if as trinescape alludes in his post, that after four years he will now add the LPU, then if weather/time is against me, I could if needed... without it seems too much loss of quality... address this when I bring it out next year.

I have two months before i must take the boat out of Venezuelan waters (18month permit period) for 45 days. this is a new boat to me and I will need the time between now and September, to fully aquaint myself with her idiocyncrasies.

The final alternative is as if over40pirate suggests is topside down to the bootstripe then I could probably do the topside on a future calm day while in the water.

None of the above is perfect, subsequently all your input would, as allows, be appreciated

Alan
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Old 16-07-2008, 12:17   #8
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The LPU, two-part paint system (Sterling, Awlgrip, et al) should last up to 10-12 years over a solid base such as your epoxy. The one part polyurethanes are 3-5 years before they really show their age. Other, alkyd enamels are less. Keep in mind that these are all petrochemicals, so the price today is not going to be what it is in a couple years, at the current rate of price hikes. A good LPU paint job can be considered like money in the bank for quite a while.
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