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Old 15-10-2010, 12:30   #16
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I would love to see a long-term side-by-side review of Loctite's PL Urethane sealants:
Loctite PL Polyurethane Window Door and Siding Sealant from Loctite Adhesives

It seems competative with 4200, but MUCH cheaper. For the projects where I have used it, marine and other, it seems to be very similar.

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Old 15-10-2010, 13:55   #17
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Originally Posted by S/V Illusion View Post
I'd suggest not using 5200 for a number of reasons, two being it is an adhesive, not as sealant which is what you should use and it does not flex. Equally important is that it is permanent and your repair may not be. You would be better served using a sealant such as any number of polysulfides that are on the market and widely available in any marine store, Silkaflex among them.
Maybe there is a secret product list that I'm not aware of, but Sikaflex dropped all their polysulfides years ago and replaced them all with polyurethanes.

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Old 15-10-2010, 14:27   #18
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G'Day all,

I agree that none of the 3-M products are advisable in this application, but the big issue will (I think) be to get any thixotropic sealant into deep, very narrow grooves such as the OP describes. Not sure how they are located relative to the forces of gravity, but if one really wants to seal the whole groove, using something that will flow "downhill" into the depths of the groove might be better, or something that can be injected via a syringe into the bottom of the groove.

None of these options are easy, but I'd fear that merely trying to force whatever gunk is chosen down from the top would result in a short lifespan for the seal.

Ain't boat ownership fun???

Good luck with whatever you choose, mate.


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s/v Insatiable back in MBTBC marina, waiting for next eye jobs to be done
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