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Old 06-09-2009, 00:57   #1
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Timber Floors

G`Day all,

I am sure this has been asked before.

I have gone to great lengths to sand all my floorboards back to bare and would like to know your opinions on the best way to treat them.

Should I go for a two pack gloss? Or oil perhaps?

I would like it to be durable as well as attractive to look at.

Regards
AJ
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Old 06-09-2009, 08:47   #2
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I used interlux perfection 2 part epoxy on my teak parquet floors and they turned out quite nice. I only put down 5 coats so I need to put in a few more before I am done, but will wait till I am finished with the rest of the craziness I am going thru now.
Recently the boat sank in 7 feet of water or so and the soles were one of the only things that came out ahead. Great product.
Bob
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:02   #3
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personally if they are teak or similar and not plywood I would oil them.... easy to redo, that dropped pan wont ruin a "yahct" finish etc...
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Old 06-09-2009, 12:32   #4
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Whatever you put on the cabin sole, make certain it doesn't get slick when wet. You want good footing when rocking in a seaway.
Someone here on the forum reviewed a product used that was clear and shiney but did not allow you to slip around. Can't remember what it was but you might research using the link below.
regards,
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Old 09-09-2009, 08:21   #5
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The title had me fooled- "floors" hold the keel to the frames. You stand on the "sole". Don't know why, but there it is.
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Old 09-09-2009, 19:21   #6
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Originally Posted by bobfnbw View Post
I used interlux perfection 2 part epoxy on my teak parquet floors and they turned out quite nice. I only put down 5 coats so I need to put in a few more before I am done, but will wait till I am finished with the rest of the craziness I am going thru now.
Recently the boat sank in 7 feet of water or so and the soles were one of the only things that came out ahead. Great product.
Bob
Bob,
Can I ask how your boat sunk?
If it's not too painful.

Regards,
Extemp.
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Old 09-09-2009, 20:07   #7
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Some of our flooring is teak grating that we oil, some is teak and holly so we use a single part poly on that.

Haven't tried the sink test, hope never to do that.
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Old 10-09-2009, 04:08   #8
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Extemp is is still fresh and painful as the insurance company is still messing around.
But to be honest not sure how it happened, only that the forward head thru hull was eaten thru with electrolysis. Boat had been fine in its slip, then the Corpus Christi boat show can and they made me move to a different slip. Several days later the boat was underwater at the slip. All thru hulls were bonded. The boat was not pugged into shore power. The bilge pump was overwhelmed as the water pored in. The marina responded fast and we got her pumped out and hauled out. This happed May 1 or so. Now she is back in the water, all new marelon thru hulls, engine is at TAD being rebuilt, and pulling out the insulation in the engine space getting ready to rewire.
But my insurance droped me, so I only have liability until I get this done and resurveyed.
Its a mess. But in the end it will be ok. She is a good old boat. Worth saving.
Bob
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Old 15-09-2009, 16:21   #9
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Thanks for the advice all....sorry to hear about the submarine effort bob....I hope all ends well
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Old 15-09-2009, 17:21   #10
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The consensus I've acquired is dont bond the through hulls. I've never unbonded one that was bonded though... Seems to me tying things together is asking for trouble though rather than eliminating it!
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Old 16-09-2009, 07:26   #11
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The consensus I've acquired is dont bond the through hulls. I've never unbonded one that was bonded though... Seems to me tying things together is asking for trouble though rather than eliminating it!
I recall it's necessary on metal hulls, but it's not recommended for wooden ones (as i found out by personal experience). I didn't think it'd make much of a difference for GRP.
Interesting- that must have been a hell of a current.
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