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Old 12-04-2012, 12:00   #16
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Re: Thru Hulls - Unsticking / Maintenance

pb blaster usually works. spray and be patient. good luck.
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Old 12-04-2012, 12:04   #17
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Re: Thru Hulls - Unsticking / Maintenance

Are these tapered seacocks? IF so, just loosen the nut a turn and tap on the nut/shaft end. With the taper they should loosen right up....? Maybe when you tightened them, they have no lube left and need servicing...? Tapered are the best and most long term you can get, I would avoid replacing them and just take them apart, clean and relube next haulout.... I rebuilt 8 of them 2 years ago. Of the 8 none would turn before. They all tapped right out though. I like to use lanolin on them... it never goes away... however makes them a little hard to turn... especially on the ones that are hard to reach..... but at lest you know when you need to turn it, it will turn!
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Old 12-04-2012, 13:37   #18
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Re: Thru Hulls - Unsticking / Maintenance

Cheechakos' post above is right on. Tapered seacocks are the best, buy admit I have no experience with marelon, maybe some member here will give us the scoop on these. The lanolin advice I'm not so sure about,true it's amazing stuff, but seems to become more paste-like over time. Have used many grease types thru the years; Trailer wheel grease seems to work well ,but am experimenting with silicone grease now and some British friends swear by Duckhams.
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Old 12-04-2012, 14:03   #19
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Re: Thru Hulls - Unsticking / Maintenance

Yup, tapered, the old Bronze stuff.

Got extensive experience with them from this boat and previous boat, never had one get stuck this hard//

Not only have I tried to tap on the valve but have banged pretty hard while applying pressure on the handle with an extension just after heating up the housing until funny smells started filling nose above.
Sooo, the next step would probably be the PP blaster and if that ain't no good, then plug the outside and try to remove the whole thing, then take it to a shop for dismantling and service. (or replace with a modern version, like a ball-valve)

Thanks for the help, keep it coming and I will keep updating on the progress. (or lack of...)
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Old 12-04-2012, 16:23   #20
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Re: Thru Hulls - Unsticking / Maintenance

I've also got one stuck at the moment .

Fortunately I stopped whilst the handle was only slightly bent - which was pretty good going given that access is also a real pig .....as I dry out 2 weeks in every month (and no strainer on the outside) thought a tap from the outside with a hammer (on a wooden drift / stick) would do the trick, but no joy ).

I must confess that I have not yet tried removing the hose (it's the toilet outlet ) and then squirting some stuff (WD40?) down it - that's the next step for me...........after that it's heat, which given it's location will be more of an art than a science (to avoid melting or incinerating anything - me included!).....am therefore toying with the idea of using a blowtorch up the hole from the outside....anyone got any thoughts on that approach?
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Old 12-04-2012, 19:56   #21
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Re: Thru Hulls - Unsticking / Maintenance

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrohr View Post
Cheechakos' post above is right on. Tapered seacocks are the best, buy admit I have no experience with marelon, maybe some member here will give us the scoop on these. The lanolin advice I'm not so sure about,true it's amazing stuff, but seems to become more paste-like over time. Have used many grease types thru the years; Trailer wheel grease seems to work well ,but am experimenting with silicone grease now and some British friends swear by Duckhams.
Yes, I do think the lanolin dries out a bit exposed to air over time, like if it's exuding out of turnbuckle threads. Havent had that issue on seacocks, but frankly, dont think I've pulled one apart after using lanolin. I like the idea of silicone grease. I have a big tube of commercial Dow "666" stuff that I got from work when the 5s team scrapped it.... it's pretty good stuff. Might be great.
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