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BLACKBIRD1 · 01-01-2015, 14:43

We have a mogan 38-1 hull #68,we are in the fix-er-up Stage, the previous owner was a slacker when up keep was concerned, the toe rail has had the old varnish removed what was left of it, now there's dark spots where the varnish used to be,Im afraid if I varnish over it ,its going too look bad, or spotty, ? can it be painted, or,,?

chouliha · 01-01-2015, 14:47

sand, a couple coats epoxy, primer and paint

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fjwiley1 · 01-01-2015, 14:59

Teak looks awesome sanded. Don't go crazy on the grit. Not knowing the condition of your teak toe rail, I would start with 240. If it's bad go to120 or even 80. Your call obviously.

A belt sander will do good. A orbital will/can cross cut the grain.

You can go to You Tube and look at "Howell2sail". Andrew removed his teak toe rail and replaced it from scratch himself.
Awesome job.

Life is good if you Keepa Smilin......

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fjwiley1 · 01-01-2015, 15:03

PS.....be sure your "Epoxy" has UV protection. All epoxies do not.
Not to expensive is Minwax Spar Varnish....has UV protection.

Good look

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**a64pilot** · 01-01-2015, 15:14

I'd either leave it and let it go "silver" or varnish it, don't paint it

fjwiley1 · 01-01-2015, 15:17

I agree with a64..... Never would I "paint" Teak

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**Hudson Force** · 01-01-2015, 15:35

Everytime I go to the bow in weather I'm on the high side and not using the toe rail as a means to aide my passage. I found my toe rail had little or no function and I removed it. I'm not recommending this for you, but pointing it out as another option. I like the smooth look and line of my foredeck without the toe rail.

Cheechako · 01-01-2015, 16:06

Personally I would never epoxy under varnish. Seen too many real problems when it fails and very hard to renew at that point. However, some on this forum like it so roll your dice!
Enough wood to sand it smooth taking the dark spots out? Bare teak would be less work. I've seen nicely painted bulwark caps that weather very well... but I assume your Morgan has a just a "stand up" piece of teak joining with the deck. hard to keep a finish on that type as the water gets under the finish where the teak joins with the deck. If that's your case epoxy wont solve the problem as the water gets under it too... making it not adhere eventually....

UNCIVILIZED · 01-01-2015, 17:48

There are various methods of lightening AKA "bleaching" teak. It'd pay to do a bit of searching/researching on said topic. Some of the more common methods involve using solutions of oxalic acid, or tsp (tri-sodium phosphate). And if you do decide that you want to try doing it, get some surplus pieces first to try it out on. IE; don't use your toe rails as the test pieces.

Regarding coatings, there's obviously a plethora of epoxy formulations out there, & a lot of them are good candidates for base coats/sealing the teak. Although you might start your research with System Three Resins'; Mirror Coat or Bar Top.
My memory's sketchy at the moment, but as I recall, they're literally formulated to put a finish onto wood, such as a bar top made of a huge, one-piece, sawn slab of wood. That's where I'd start my search anyway, assuming that the finish which you're aiming for is a glossy one.

Though when you're looking them over, & or talking to them on their tech help line. Look to see what they recommend as far as varnishes to put on top of them, as I recall that one of those System Three products was designed to specifically to work best with a hand full of varnishes. So it'd only make sense to use the matched set, if you go with the two layer, combo protection finish.

Ah, & if you're considering painting it, some folks are big advocates of putting several coats of varnish on it first. That way, if you ever decide to remove the paint, you don't have paint stuck deep in the pores of the wood, which requires heavy sanding to remove.
And part of the thinking behind this option is that when you decide to sell the boat, shiny varnished teak is a big help in making a sale. So you keep up with the paint until it's time to sell her, & then strip the paint, & put a glossy finish on the teak.

**a64pilot** · 01-01-2015, 18:02

I don't think paint sticks well to teak, now that may be something I heard that was untrue because varnish sticks, but I've been told paint won't stick well, teak is too oily? But yes, if you gotta paint, varnish first makes a lot of sense. That way it's reversable

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rbyham · 01-01-2015, 18:26

No paint. Heres what I do. Sand until free of any grey or black. All grain removed as well. Needs to be smooth as baby's bottom. Any grey or black you varnish over is mold. Mold is what ruins everything. If you can run your finger nails cross grain and feel ridges keep sanding. Once completely sanded use any teak cleaner. Now you are ready to varnish. I do use the Minwax spar varnish which still has to be top coated every 8-9 months depending on where you live. But top coating is so simple. Just hit it with medium grade scouring pad and add two topcoats. Oh one more thing. After sanding and cleaning the first two coats thin 50:50 so the varnish seeps into the teak.Then go 3-4 more coats full strength. Send pictures. :-)

BLACKBIRD1 · 01-01-2015, 18:48

To everyone THANKS,alot for the good advice,,after the last sanding, I used star bright cleaner, the teak is looking better,. Ill hit the dark areas once more and see how that goes, I would like to varnish in stead of painting,,thanks to every one for the help, oh,,,HAPPY NEW YEAR,,,,

Dennis.G · 01-01-2015, 19:09

You might want to consider using Semco Teak Sealer instead of varnish on the toe rails. That's what we do and are happy with it. But I don't like to varnish so it suits me.

malbert73 · 01-01-2015, 19:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dennis.G

You might want to consider using Semco Teak Sealer instead of varnish on the toe rails. That's what we do and are happy with it. But I don't like to varnish so it suits me.

Semco is what I plan my my teak toerails. How long do you go between coats?

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