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Old 17-06-2016, 13:02   #16
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Re: Teak Deck Sand and Recaulk

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Originally Posted by Folie View Post
Nice prep job!!


What brand caulk was used??
TDS, or Teak Decking Systems of Sarasota caulk.
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Old 17-06-2016, 13:54   #17
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Re: Teak Deck Sand and Recaulk

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Originally Posted by CAELESTIS View Post
No, that is one of the worst things you can do to a deck. The oil will attract more dirt, which requires more cleaning, which shortens the life of the deck.

Semco sealer would work, but I simply cannot stand the smell of that chemical that seems to last for weeks.

Clean salt water and Teak Deck Systems cleaner is the mildest. Use a white 3M scrub pad across the grain.
Yup, teak decks do best left alone with occasional wash down with salt water. If you use a mop, make sure its soft. Had three boats with teak decks. Screwed up the first one by using acids, soaps, and scrub brushes. Next two just left alone except for re caulking seams. Lasted for decades.
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Old 17-06-2016, 19:05   #18
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Re: Teak Deck Sand and Recaulk

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Originally Posted by reed1v View Post
Yup, teak decks do best left alone with occasional wash down with salt water. If you use a mop, make sure its soft. Had three boats with teak decks. Screwed up the first one by using acids, soaps, and scrub brushes. Next two just left alone except for re caulking seams. Lasted for decades.
THANK YOU Reed1v
So many people tell me what to do with my teak deck (has plenty thickness left, with some deeper grooves). I have chosen the path 'leave alone' and hose down and put salt water on. The deck obviously looks old and weathered but I like it like that. If go ahead with sanding it would look great but it would expose new layer of soft fibers on the wood and reduce the life significantly!
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Old 17-06-2016, 19:34   #19
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Re: Teak Deck Sand and Recaulk

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THANK YOU Reed1v
So many people tell me what to do with my teak deck (has plenty thickness left, with some deeper grooves). I have chosen the path 'leave alone' and hose down and put salt water on. The deck obviously looks old and weathered but I like it like that. If go ahead with sanding it would look great but it would expose new layer of soft fibers on the wood and reduce the life significantly!
You can sand what you have and get it looking real nice. Then just use salt water. However, the downside to sanding if they are screwed deck is that you may end up with plugs too thin. That's the risk!
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Old 17-06-2016, 20:54   #20
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Re: Teak Deck Sand and Recaulk

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Seriously? 100K. I know it's a labor intensive job but 100K??
We replaced the 31 year old teak deck on our Liberty 458 with Ameriteak last year.

Replacing with teak was quoted at $70k. Ameriteak was $20k.

The ameriteak is far superior with the only issue being the need to spot face it to ensure a good flange seal for all the fillers.

The ameriteak (Dek King) looks better, feels better, has a consistent new teak color, beads water, is easier to clean and is lighter.

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Old 18-06-2016, 08:54   #21
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Re: Teak Deck Sand and Recaulk

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You can sand what you have and get it looking real nice. Then just use salt water. However, the downside to sanding if they are screwed deck is that you may end up with plugs too thin. That's the risk!
A sanded teak deck will only stay that way for several months before it turns gray. Keep doing that and your deck will start getting grooves where the softer woods have worn away. And yes eventually you hit the screws and your screwed. Teak is very oily so anything you put on it, like more oil, will simply not go into the wood but sit on top to get worn away and make the deck real scuzzy looking.

Really beautiful teak decks are those that have been at sea for months and have built up a layer of salt. Almost a white/gray color. Real classy.
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Old 18-06-2016, 09:48   #22
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Re: Teak Deck Sand and Recaulk

With thin decks, just remove the bung and screw (not always that easy). Drill down into the deck slightly smaller than the bung hole. Don' t go all the way through the deck! If the core comes up good wood, countersink the bung hole deeper, fill the hole with slightly thickened epoxy and rebung, no screw. If the hole is messed up, use a larger counter sink and a larger bung. If the core is iffy, use some CPES first to stabilize. Sand the bung down level if needed with 80 grit orbital sander after the epoxy sets. Clean up any epoxy the same way. Just spot sand and live with the two-tone for a few weeks.

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Old 18-06-2016, 10:01   #23
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Re: Teak Deck Sand and Recaulk

Care and feeding....cruise ship crew told me they mostly just use scotchbrite pads on floor buffers once a week. Keeps then brown. Of course they have the $$$$$ to replace them when they wear out. But the point about pumice or scotch Brite is right on if brown is what is wanted.

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Old 18-06-2016, 10:11   #24
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Re: Teak Deck Sand and Recaulk

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Originally Posted by reed1v View Post
A sanded teak deck will only stay that way for several months before it turns gray. Keep doing that and your deck will start getting grooves where the softer woods have worn away. And yes eventually you hit the screws and your screwed. Teak is very oily so anything you put on it, like more oil, will simply not go into the wood but sit on top to get worn away and make the deck real scuzzy looking.

Really beautiful teak decks are those that have been at sea for months and have built up a layer of salt. Almost a white/gray color. Real classy.
Yes they will turn grey shortly. It doesn't matter regarding grooves, your deck has them before sanding usually anyway, due to people scrubbing them improperly. My point was you can get rid of the deep grooving by sanding and starting fresh. The wood doesn't know if it was planed and installed and sanded when new or if it was just resanded. ;>)
I have seen a couple examples that people used strictly salt water and only flat pads for cleaning, smooth and very tan rather than grey. Very nice.
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Old 18-06-2016, 11:50   #25
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Re: Teak Deck Sand and Recaulk

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With thin decks, just remove the bung and screw (not always that easy). Drill down into the deck slightly smaller than the bung hole. Don' t go all the way through the deck! If the core comes up good wood, countersink the bung hole deeper, fill the hole with slightly thickened epoxy and rebung, no screw. If the hole is messed up, use a larger counter sink and a larger bung. If the core is iffy, use some CPES first to stabilize. Sand the bung down level if needed with 80 grit orbital sander after the epoxy sets. Clean up any epoxy the same way. Just spot sand and live with the two-tone for a few weeks.

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Don't do this unless you are prepared to have the entire teak deck lift up. Most teak decks are cosmetic, applied to a fiberglass base with whatever core is beneath that. With the flexing of the decks, teak naturally wants to pop up off the bottom strata so you need lots of screws to keep it down, or an entire mastic base for it to sit on. Sporadic epoxy dabs will really not have the ability to hold the teak down. Almost nothing attaches to teak due to its natural oils. You need to have the teak keyed to allow whatever mastic your using a way to grab onto it.

Secondly, you cut a bung surface flat with a sharp chisel, not an orbital sander(good grief). Any proud points will wear down quickly.
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Old 18-06-2016, 12:04   #26
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Re: Teak Deck Sand and Recaulk

I removed the teak decks from my Hans Christian 38. First I removed most the screws. Those decks were not going anywhere even without the screws. It was a back breaking job. I literally had to pry, chisel and break the teak planks into <2ft long pieces to get it off. I'd pry them up and then lift up until they broke at the next empty screw hole.
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Old 18-06-2016, 13:12   #27
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Re: Teak Deck Sand and Recaulk

"Don't do this unless you are prepared to have the entire teak deck lift up. Most teak decks are cosmetic, applied to a fiberglass base with whatever core is beneath that. With the flexing of the decks, teak naturally wants to pop up off the bottom strata so you need lots of screws to keep it down, or an entire mastic base for it to sit on. Sporadic epoxy dabs will really not have the ability to hold the teak down. Almost nothing attaches to teak due to its natural oils. You need to have the teak keyed to allow whatever mastic your using a way to grab onto it."

The sporadic epoxy dabs is not to hold the teak deck down but to provide a seal between the fibreglass deck and the screw. The mastic is holding the teak down.
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Old 18-06-2016, 13:29   #28
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Re: Teak Deck Sand and Recaulk

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"Don't do this unless you are prepared to have the entire teak deck lift up. Most teak decks are cosmetic, applied to a fiberglass base with whatever core is beneath that. With the flexing of the decks, teak naturally wants to pop up off the bottom strata so you need lots of screws to keep it down, or an entire mastic base for it to sit on. Sporadic epoxy dabs will really not have the ability to hold the teak down. Almost nothing attaches to teak due to its natural oils. You need to have the teak keyed to allow whatever mastic your using a way to grab onto it."

The sporadic epoxy dabs is not to hold the teak deck down but to provide a seal between the fibreglass deck and the screw. The mastic is holding the teak down.
Depends on how the boat was built. On a Bristol, we found nothing but screws kept the teak in place. As another pointed out, on Hans Christians, the decks are so well laid down only an act of God can get them up. BTW. HC have an underlying glass deck that is actually the structural deck, so leave the teak alone. The only thing to go spongy is the membrane between the teak and the fiberglass. Cheoy Lees laid up the decks and hull as one piece, the teak was sometimes laid in a mastic and sometimes not. The underlying wood was only to anchor the teak, not to give structural support to the decks. The wood itself was encased in glass. Best to leave the decks alone. So it depends on the boat.
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Old 18-06-2016, 15:50   #29
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Re: Teak Deck Sand and Recaulk

Fair enough. My Albin has the super mastic. If a plank comes loose I will either screw it down in a new hole, or into an epoxy filled hole, depending on what I find.
If more than a few come up, they're all coming up.
By the way, the sander also removes the inevitable epoxy that will sometimes squeeze out around some bungs. So although it's not the classic woodworkers way, it cleans up the area and with a light touch doesn't remove significant amounts of wood.
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