When I purchased my 41ft Rhodes Reliant in 1994, she was a true Cheoy Leaky. Countless first aid refastening of the 1/2" teak deck
had let a lot a water
into the core
, which found its way to the overhead of the interior
We started by stripping all deck
fittings, toerails and coamings.
These boats were built with 1/2" teak on 1/4" of woven roving/ chop strand, fore and aft laid, 1/2" x 4" luan mahogany core
, on 1/4" glass inner skin. Luan was laid in polyester resin, which was brittle, had cracked away from all component surfaces.
Where skins met at cabin
sides and under toe rails, last 5" was filled with a polyester based white filler.
Inner skin is epoxied to hull
with 6 lay-up, 18" wide chop/ woven combo.
Our procedure was as follows:
Rip up teak deck
. Time consuming, because deck repairs
had been done with 5200.
Set Skilsaw at 3/8" depth
, and cut top skin away, leaving about 3" of the filler exposed.
Remove Luan core, which was in remarkably good condition except around thru deck drains at lowest sheerline point.
Scrub Luan with strong detergent, and allow to dry out.
Ground upper surface of underskin with 36 grit until clean.
Trowel on thicked epoxy
filler with 1/4 notch, and relay Luan with lots of weights and battens, with epoxy
squeezing up thru joints.
Grind smooth after curing.
Cut 1/2" marine
cutout top deck for template.
Epoxy and screw down to Luan
Grind long bevels on gunwale and cabin
flanges from original top deck and layup
4 24oz roving and 4 2oz chop with polyester resin
Fair and paint
I counter sink all thru deck fastenings, and bead all bolts before lowering into place. This forms a wedge shaped o-ring in polysulphide.
Not a drop thru in 13 years.
Sorry I cant give you an idea of cost, as did this myself as part of 4 yr restoration
If I can find photos, I will post them
Its not rocket science, but be prepared for some long hours.
BTW, the deck is now bullet-proof.