Teak Deck Refresh

[Alistairnz]

In my head the back filling would've filled some of the old counter sink giving a new flat or convex surface to drill and countersink new fastenings into prior to plugging. But drilling into the core could be a big mistake if not back filled properly, could open up a whole world of pain


Shipwright by trade, adventurer by nature

[Chenega]

Originally Posted by Alistairnz

In my head the back filling would've filled some of the old counter sink giving a new flat or convex surface to drill and countersink new fastenings into prior to plugging. But drilling into the core could be a big mistake if not back filled properly, could open up a whole world of pain


Shipwright by trade, adventurer by nature

I agree... Here's a method for no fasteners... Done that too (part of the reason my back is so bad!)

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...t.do?docId=415
-Cheers


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[chris95040]

Thanks everyone, lots of great ideas here.

I've had a lot of success with Smiths Clear Penetrating Epoxy as a 'primer' over teak before varnishing, I wonder if it would make sense to prep the undersides of the planks in this manner before adhering to the deck.

[Chenega]

Originally Posted by chris95040

Thanks everyone, lots of great ideas here.



I've had a lot of success with Smiths Clear Penetrating Epoxy as a 'primer' over teak before varnishing, I wonder if it would make sense to prep the undersides of the planks in this manner before adhering to the deck.

Just be sure it will bond to whatever adhesive / bedding you'll use to put planks down in...


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[hgd137]

Bite the bullet and do yourself a favor and get rid of the teak decks. See http:/svgrendel.com the addition at the end of the blog. I was exactly in your perdictament.

[Oceandeep]

I'm working on my teak deck now. I have about 3/8" teak thickness left. What I've decided to do is remove the old screws that are showing. If the bung is still looking good I'm leaving it alone for now. Once the old screw is out I'm drilling with a countersink screw attachment about 1/4" deep. This means that I make a hole into the deck core. I'm using a syringe to inject penetrating epoxy into the core. Some holes won't take any epoxy which is good. Some holes take a surprising amount and have to be treated several times. Once I have injected as much penetrating epoxy as I reasonably can, I top all the holes up with a thickened epoxy that still can be injected with a syringe.
Once the epoxy has kicked, I re-drill the holes , replace the crews and cover with a teak bung. I'm also taking this opportunity to touch up any caulking that is worn. This will probably be a process that I need to do every few years as old bungs pop their top but I love the look and feel of a teak deck so it's worth it to me to see if can get a few more years out of my deck.

[maj75]

Would it be possible to to lay a new teak deck over the old one? Assuming the underlying fiberglass deck is solid, why rip off the old deck? Sand it down, and use it as a template for the new teak.

[Terra Nova]

Originally Posted by maj75

Would it be possible to to lay a new teak deck over the old one?...

The cost of a new teak deck is staggering. It would be most unwise to install it over the top of a failed one.

[hgd137]

Originally Posted by maj75

Would it be possible to to lay a new teak deck over the old one? Assuming the underlying fiberglass deck is solid, why rip off the old deck? Sand it down, and use it as a template for the new teak.

The teak decks of older boats are laid with an rubber adhesive and screwed to the underlying fiberglass deck. Then the seams between the teak boards are sealed with the same rubber adhesive, all to prevent water intrusion under the teak boards. As the teak ages the teak boards become thinner and the teak bungs which seal the screws begin to fall out allowing for water intrusion. When that happens the underlying screw must be removed and set deeper into the teak board to provide more surface area to glue in the new bung. Also the rubber adhesive between the seams begin failing and the teak seams must be made deeper to provide more surface area for the new adhesive which must be applied. While all of this is happening the adhesive under the teak boards are failing. All of this is allowing water intrusion under the teak boards exposing hundreds of screws which are in the fiberglass deck. Also all of the chain plates, filler fittings, cleats, etc., which are mounted on the teak deck will begin leaking. If this goes on for a long period of time, water will eventually get into the core of your deck and cause rotting, leading to a soft deck.

For this reason when your decking has failed it must be removed, all the screw holes repaired and then a new covering placed on the deck. Never do what you are suggesting.

[ssanzone]

While i acknowledge this is a 1 off solution...

1. Get some teak and run it through a chop saw.
2. Take the teak sawdust and and mix it with gorilla glue (wood glue)
3. Put a dollop on top of the screw head
4. Let dry
5. sand flat

Depending on how much of the glue sits on the screw head, you will be able to pop the homemade bung out like a regular bung. If you cant, 30 seconds with a torch and you are right as rain.

-steve

[ssanzone]

Originally Posted by maj75

Would it be possible to to lay a new teak deck over the old one? Assuming the underlying fiberglass deck is solid, why rip off the old deck? Sand it down, and use it as a template for the new teak.

Sure... 5+ thousand in materials (teak is ~$30 per board foot) and 100+ hours of back breaking work and that is before you have to pull your toe rails and raise them because your new deck is flush with the top of the original toe rail.

Oh yeah... have fun with the king plank... it will be a real joy

-steve

[maj75]

I get it if the teak deck has failed and the deck is leaking. What I'm asking is say the teak is in poor condition, but the deck isn't leaking. Maybe you have a steel or aluminum boat...Instead of ripping off the old teak and creating a bunch of extra work, just sand the existing teak and lay the new stuff over it. No old screws to remove or holes to fill. Lay down a layer of sealer on the old teak, install the new teak. Drill and seal new holes.

You assume there is a removable toe rail...

You could do a teak board for the edge with a quarter round at the edge to allow drainage around the edge of the deck. Don't see why the king plank would be any more difficult this way. You lay the other boards and do a template for the king plank.

[Kenomac]

We love our teak decks. I'm 75% done restoring/refinishing the decks. Lots of work but very rewarding. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to contact me. The pictures were taken prior to the final sanding to remove excess caulking. You're looking at 2 weeks (60-80 hours) of work in the pictures. Always start with 40 grit sandpaper on a random orbital sander.

[Terra Nova]

75--one does not build upon a crumbling foundation.

[ssanzone]

Originally Posted by maj75

I get it if the teak deck has failed and the deck is leaking. What I'm asking is say the teak is in poor condition, but the deck isn't leaking. Maybe you have a steel or aluminum boat...Instead of ripping off the old teak and creating a bunch of extra work, just sand the existing teak and lay the new stuff over it. No old screws to remove or holes to fill. Lay down a layer of sealer on the old teak, install the new teak. Drill and seal new holes.

You assume there is a removable toe rail...

You could do a teak board for the edge with a quarter round at the edge to allow drainage around the edge of the deck. Don't see why the king plank would be any more difficult this way. You lay the other boards and do a template for the king plank.

Actually, I am assuming the toe rail is NOT removable...

Not an un-doable just not as simple as you estimate. How would you handle the sweeps in the deck? Cut to shape and burn and result a higher waste percentage?

-steve