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Old 10-10-2014, 12:14   #31
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Re: Tapered fittings on thru hull question

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Originally Posted by Bill_E View Post
I've been working through plans to replace all of my thruhulls and valves when I haul out next summer but this thread raises a comment and a few questions.

My comment (implied in some posts above) is: Be sure that all of the fittings are marine bronze. If you've ever seen what electro corrosion looks like in fittings you'll have nightmares for months. I'm still having them over a year later.

My questions. Why not have bilge pumps share a thruhull? I can see why you don't want a check valve but I'd think that they could share a thruhull.

I'm also trying to decide whether to use the flange and ball valve approach suggested in Hop-Car's drawing or to use the seacocks. Seacocks are cheaper and a bit simpler but the two part (flange and ball valve) has the advantage of flexibility if there should be a problem with the valve later.

My last question: What happens to the threads when one threads an NPT valve on an NPS thruhull? I've got that situation on all of my thruhulls. It really doesn't matter because I'm going to replace everything and discard the old ones but I'm just curious. Does it crush the threads or just stop turning at the point where things get tight?

Bill
two BP's on one thru hull ....Depending on where the actual hull exit is, ... you may just pump the water to the other bilge!
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Old 10-10-2014, 14:54   #32
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Re: Tapered fittings on thru hull question

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Originally Posted by delmarrey View Post
Thanks Parks!

Pictures are worth a thousand words. Now if one could put a street elbow, a tee and a couple barbed fittings it'd be the way to go. Or just rotate the handle and eliminate the elbow.
By eliminating as many metal parts attached to the seacock as possible, there is less chance of damaging it by stepping on it or having something heavy fall on it. The metal pipes add leverage that you don't want. And of course with hoses it's far easier to have things line up and go where you want them to.
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