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Old 17-03-2012, 21:00   #16
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Re: Tabbing Bulkheads

consider making your bulkheads out of foam-cored fiberglass. Then the tabbing will be sure to bond to both bulkhead and hull, and the bulkhead becomes one piece with the rest of the boat. My entire boat--hull, decks, cabin and bulkheads--in consequence of building like that, is for all intents and purposes one seamless piece, and there is no wood coring anywhere that will rot out with time. A little more difficult and expensive than plywood, (maybe not, when you factor in the high cost of epoxy versus poly or vinyl-ester), but a lot better in the end.
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Old 17-03-2012, 23:49   #17
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Re: Tabbing Bulkheads

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Originally Posted by Celestialsailor View Post
I have a method that worked well for me and will share it here at the expense of CMD belly laughing at me...
...I tab (on one side) the bulkhead slightly off the hull. Then I layer a X-mat with a generous radius. Next I take spray foam (low expansion) and lay a bead in the gap. After it is dry, I shape a radius on the foam and glass over that. then sand smooth the whole affair.
This sounds like a pretty good system for a solid hull so as not to create any hard spots and easier then trying to lay in foam strips. But since my hull has about 3/4" of foam core between two layers of 3/16" laid glass, Cat Man Do's system would be quicker. BUT! I do think tappering the ply a bit does give a better bond for a structural BH. Although, this bulkhead is not structural. The forward section of the boat already has multiple stringers running fore/aft and up/down. It's to build in the head/shower and hanging locker, for storage & w/shelves forward of that.

C M D, thanks for the joggle stick link I had forgotten about that system, which is easier to get in/out of the boat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Benz
consider making your bulkheads out of foam-cored fiberglass. Then the tabbing will be sure to bond to both bulkhead and hull, and the bulkhead becomes one piece with the rest of the boat. My entire boat--hull, decks, cabin and bulkheads--in consequence of building like that, is for all intents and purposes one seamless piece, and there is no wood coring anywhere that will rot out with time. A little more difficult and expensive than plywood, (maybe not, when you factor in the high cost of epoxy versus poly or vinyl-ester), but a lot better in the end.
I considered this BUT the material was about $160 a sheet X 2. Plus, I'd still have to overlay it with a wood laminate to make it perdy (another form cut) and then there is the interior walls that need to be attached w/doors and trim the passage way. The boat's 30 YO and only needs to last the rest of MY life (62 now).

Lots of good ideas here but different strokes for different types of boats/construction.
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Old 18-03-2012, 06:58   #18
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Re: Tabbing Bulkheads

I have seen the following methods:

- air gap,
- foam spacer,

Now I have seen 3M materials where they advise filling the gap with an adhesive of theirs. (?)

b.
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Old 18-03-2012, 08:26   #19
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Re: Tabbing Bulkheads

Quote:
Originally Posted by delmarrey View Post
This sounds like a pretty good system for a solid hull so as not to create any hard spots and easier then trying to lay in foam strips. But since my hull has about 3/4" of foam core between two layers of 3/16" laid glass, Cat Man Do's system would be quicker. BUT! I do think tappering the ply a bit does give a better bond for a structural BH. Although, this bulkhead is not structural. The forward section of the boat already has multiple stringers running fore/aft and up/down. It's to build in the head/shower and hanging locker, for storage & w/shelves forward of that.

C M D, thanks for the joggle stick link I had forgotten about that system, which is easier to get in/out of the boat.



I considered this BUT the material was about $160 a sheet X 2. Plus, I'd still have to overlay it with a wood laminate to make it perdy (another form cut) and then there is the interior walls that need to be attached w/doors and trim the passage way. The boat's 30 YO and only needs to last the rest of MY life (62 now).

Lots of good ideas here but different strokes for different types of boats/construction.

Personally I would never use ply for a bulkhead-it's so last century-but if you are going to use ply then tapering the edges is a great way to increase adhesion. Done properly the tabbing will be bonded to multiple layers of the ply instead of just the outer ply, which could delam. Make up the thickness tapered off the ply with the tabbing.
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Old 18-03-2012, 09:52   #20
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Re: Tabbing Bulkheads

Quote:
Originally Posted by barnakiel View Post
I have seen the following methods:

- air gap,
- foam spacer,

Now I have seen 3M materials where they advise filling the gap with an adhesive of theirs. (?)

b.
That came to mind as well. Just forgot to mention it. But epoxy would not bond to it very well. Unless it were designed to adhere with epoxy after curing.
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Old 18-03-2012, 10:04   #21
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Re: Tabbing Bulkheads

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Originally Posted by minaret View Post
Personally I would never use ply for a bulkhead-it's so last century-but if you are going to use ply then tapering the edges is a great way to increase adhesion. Done properly the tabbing will be bonded to multiple layers of the ply instead of just the outer ply, which could delam. Make up the thickness tapered off the ply with the tabbing.
--which makes the veneering process much neater and cleaner.
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