System Three Quikfair vs. Interlux Watertite Epoxy Filler

[redpointist]

Ive spent the first part of this winter grinding all the bottom paint off the boat and digging out blisters. I'll need to fill them in and re-fair parts of the keel. Im at the point now where I should start thinking about buying fillers, barrier coats, antifouling paint, etc. Im looking at premixed puttys to save time in order to have everything ready for launch date in spring.

I went on defender and was looking at fillers. I was originally looking at Interlux Watertite since I've seen it reccomended for blisters and was thinking about using Interlux barrier coat as well, but noticed that the Quikfair is A LOT CHEAPER! Obviously I'd like to use it instead if it'll perform similarly for my use.

1 Quart Interlux Watertite: $56.99 per Quart
Interlux Watertite Epoxy Filler

1.5 Quart System Three Quikfair: $22.67 per Quart
System Three SilverTip Quikfair Fairing Putty

TLDR: Why is Quikfair so much cheaper? Would it work as well for filling blisters and refairing a keel? (Filler to be used under an epoxy barrier coating)

[roverhi]

Silvertip is a reputable company that makes good products. They don't have the name or advertising clout of West or Interlux and tend to be cheaper.

Personally, I'd buy resin and a filler(s) of choice and mix up a home-brew. You can get a lot more variety in the viscosity and ability to maintain the shape applied before they go off (thixotropic). I use a number of different fillers depending on what I'm trying to achieve from a rock hard block to something that is easily sanded to a feather edge for fine finish work.

[CS Cruiser]

System three is amazing to work with, very DYI friendly and simple 2:1 ratio. Sands amazingly and next to no shrinkage if any at all.

[redpointist]

Looks like I'll go with the Quikfair then! Ill throw 1.5 quarts in my shopping cart with my bronze thru hulls and seacocks. If it doesn't suit me I can order something else when I order barrier coat and paint later on. Or mix my own for that matter. But this whole bottom paint grinding thing has been exhausting, so I'm trying to make the fairing process as painless as possible.

[Cadence]

I found System Three resin to be a good produce. If you want easy fairing insure it is glass microspheres not talc as the filler in the resin no matter what you buy.

[CS Cruiser]

No need to add to it, it's 2:1 mix looks after, and has a no sag consistency up to,3/4"
"Quikfair Fairing Compound is a lightweight microballoon-filled fast-curing two-part epoxy fairing putty with excellent moisture resistance. Designed to be used on both fiberglass and wood-epoxy boats above or below the waterline."

[minaret]

If you must use a premix I'd recommend Alexseal 202, but blister divots of any depth should not be just filled, they should be glassed. Glass off, glass back on. Anything else is unprofessional.

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by minaret

If you must use a premix I'd recommend Alexseal 202, but blister divots of any depth should not be just filled, they should be glassed. Glass off, glass back on. Anything else is unprofessional.

I think I agree with you but am not sure what you are saying? If I read you right, it is grind it out and glass the section not just plug the hole.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Cadence

I think I agree with you but am not sure what you are saying? If I read you right, it is grind it out and glass the section not just plug the hole.

Yes. I tend to glass them up a bit high and then grind fair, so when you fair the bottom there is very little filler left on the divots. If you don't, the big epoxy fills will eventually get soft and wet and re blistering will occur, even through the barrier coat. Doesn't matter what product you use. I recommend Alexseal because you seem to want to use epoxy, but 3M Blister Repair is far cheaper, easier to use, and more effective if you must fill them. It is simply the old tried and true 3M vinylester Premium Filler with chopped strand added. It is also known and labeled as High Strength filler. Vinylester resin is actually more resistant to moisture and chemicals than epoxy. Much cheaper too. Glassing up divots is also cheaper than epoxy, as vinylester resin and glass don't cost much. Once you get good at glassing not too much grinding is required. Peel ply helps.

[redpointist]

Originally Posted by minaret

Vinylester resin is actually more resistant to moisture and chemicals than epoxy.

I plan on glassing up any of the blisters that involved me grinding into the laminate, but most of them were just under the gelcoat. So the filler would really just be replacing the gelcoat layer. But everything I've read before has said that vinylester is somewhere between polyester and epoxy in terms of moisture resistance, and that epoxy is the more moisture resistant material. Now I'm confused!

[Jimske]

Originally Posted by roverhi

Silvertip is a reputable company that makes good products. They don't have the name or advertising clout of West or Interlux and tend to be cheaper.

Personally, I'd buy resin and a filler(s) of choice and mix up a home-brew. You can get a lot more variety in the viscosity and ability to maintain the shape applied before they go off (thixotropic). I use a number of different fillers depending on what I'm trying to achieve from a rock hard block to something that is easily sanded to a feather edge for fine finish work.

I want to mix up some fairing compound to fill areas between 1/6" and 1/32" for an easily sandable finish. I don't think further sanding will get me any smoother. I was thinking to put on a thin coat of clear epoxy before paint as a primer as well.

I'm looking for formulas to mix up myself. I have epoxy, wood flour and recently purchased some fused silica.

Any ideas? thanks.

Jim

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by Jimske

I want to mix up some fairing compound to fill areas between 1/6" and 1/32" for an easily sandable finish. I don't think further sanding will get me any smoother. I was thinking to put on a thin coat of clear epoxy before paint as a primer as well.

I'm looking for formulas to mix up myself. I have epoxy, wood flour and recently purchased some fused silica.

Any ideas? thanks.

Jim

Just as info.. I have used talc and microballoons. The micoballoons added no weight, to speak of, and were a breeze to sand.

[Jimske]

Originally Posted by Cadence

Just as info.. I have used talc and microballoons. The micoballoons added no weight, to speak of, and were a breeze to sand.

Here's one I found at http://www.epoxyproducts.com/mproducts.html

1 part Wood Flour
1 part Cellulose
1 part Talc
2 parts Fumed Silica
2 part Microsphere

Lots of people seem to like the talc as you mentioned. Maybe I'll mix up a small batch and see if it needs any tweaking. I have everything but the cellulose.

[minaret]

Just use 407.

[Siberianhusky]

I'm a fan of straight epoxy resin (your choice of brand) with an appropriate filler for the job.
Can do anything with the same resin from bonding to glassing to filling and coating.
One product to store/buy with many uses!