My previous boat had a high quality glued teak deck
. My current
has Nuteak in the cockpit
and selected areas but not the bow. I much prefer this solution.
While the Nuteak is hotter than white gelcoat
, it seems cooler than real teak. A large part of the cockpit is shaded by the bimini
so it doesn't matter there.
The Nuteak is five years old and looks as good as the day it was put on. At five years old the teak on my old boat had a few permanent stains and bad spots, despite really careful maintenance
- probably 20 times as much in hours as the Nuteak. I even allow potato chips on the new boat.
The Nuteak is much easier to clean than teak because mildew can't get into the grain. It's also easier to clean than fiberglass
non-skid. The Nuteak can be sanded with 60 grit sandpaper for the very few stubborn stains. This also brings back the nonskid.
The Nuteak isn't cheap
and I had their dealer install it even though I do a lot of work on the boat. That's because when I looked at other boats with plastic teak the difference between an obvious plastic deck
and "is that teak?" was installation
The plastic has to be cut and fitted like real teak boards to look best - you need a king plank if you do the bow, board width has to be even and run the right direction, you need well fitted trim boards around the edge, and where it butts against vertical fiberglass
(which always has a curved transition) the edge has to be straight and close but not so close that the teak curves up.
I don't have an interest in Nuteak and think that there are other products that are probably just as good. If (when) I get a new boat, I'll repeat the same light fiberglass forward, plastic teak aft combination.