Another few points about synthetic lubes, and Amsoil in particular:
If you decide to switch to Amsoil (which is a true syntheic, not a re-formulated petroleum product-BTW), or any 'synthetic', you should do a thorough engine flush first. Amsoil has an engine flush the is very easy to use. Just add it to the old oil and run the engine at idle for about 20 minutes. Then completely drain the old oil. This will flush the carbon deposits and gunk out of the oil galleys and hidey-holes. A good idea is to keep the drain plug
out for several hours, letting all the oil drain.
Then, replace the drain plug
, and add the required amount of synthetic. Be sure to fill the new oil filter! Run the engine for a short time, to get a correct fill reading, and to check for leakage. Top off as needed.
One thing to think about, the high pressure filter (the one on the block) filters down to about 30 microns. Some are less. When you buy a filter, look at the filter itself, and it should have the rating printed on it. I wouldn't recommend any less than 30 microns.
I recommend a by-pass filter as well. There are several on the market, but Amsoil has a definite edge. For the heavy truck market, they have a by-pass that filters down to 2 microns. This is the same filter that is used on the Abrams tanks
. The same element material is available on by-pass systems for smaller engines as well. It's a nano-fibre material that allows for superior filtration, but does not restrict oil flow.
A by pass filter is always installed on the 'low pressure' side of the system, sipping oil into the filter then returning it to the sump. The block (high pressure) filter has to allow the oil to pass through and climb the galleys, so it is much more 'porous', hence the 30 micron filtration. A good by-pass system will clean the entire sump in about 15 minutes.
Another advantage of a by-pass is that you now will never need to change your oil.
With the proper filtration, the oil will last indefinitely. The filters will need to be changed, and an oil sample sent to a lab, but the oil will not wear out. This is true even of organic petroleum oil.
The synthetics provide better cold start lubrication, better cleaning capabilities, and far superior heat dissipation.
I personally know several drivers with this by-pass system, and they each have more than 1 1/2 million miles on the oil, never having changed it.
I replaced the gear
lube in my trucks transmission
( a 13 speed Fuller RoadRanger) and both differentials on the drive axles. The diff temps dropped more than 20 degrees, and the trans right at 20 degrees. That is significant. My diff temps on a 100 degree day, pulling a slight grade with a 30,000lb load was 162/159, respectively.
I have a 3 cylinder Perkins
8kw on board generator
that allows me to have plenty of electricity in the truck. It provides power for A/C, heat, essentially I can be 'civilized. I run the 5-30 Amsoil in it, and I have 23,952 hours on it. It's never given me a problem. Perkins told me if it isn't smoking (it's doesn't) and is running well, keep it. Perkins makes a heck of a motor
. It runs right at 1800rpm, and purrs.
Any questions about synthetics or lubricants can usually be addressed at Bob's website, a lubrication aficionado website Pretty interesting stuff there.
- Bob is the Oil Guy