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Old 25-12-2009, 16:01   #1
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: West Palm Beach
Boat: Allied Seawind 30
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Stuffing Box - Can I Do This?

i am hauling the boat next week to take care of all my below the water line issues, sealing all the little leaks so to speak. rebuilding/moving/installing seacocks, rebedding transducer, and i need to do something about the packing gland.

here is the situation:
- the engine is not currently running and i will not have the funds to get it running in the immediate future. this bottom work takes priority, (i am also recoring the deck at the moment).

- the boat currently has a pss type seal that drips 10 times per minute at rest but if your turn the shaft at all it pours in.

- i was first thinking of rebuilding/replacing the pss seal, but then read that to properly seat the carbon it need to be run in gear. no can do

- then i was thinking it would be cheaper to and easier (maybe)? to just install and tradition stuffing box. then i also read that it needs to be run to seat the flax and not leak

so my question is this:

- can i install a traditional stuffing box, (looking at buck algonquin stuff), install the packing and just tighten the crap out of it so it doesnt leak as a temporary measure - then when i can get the diesel going again i will be sure to remove it all and repack it first? is this a feasable plan? will it not leak if it tighten the crap out of it and dont run it?

and: since i will be ordering new should i get a bolt gland type or a tradition spud type?

thanks! and happy festivus


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Old 25-12-2009, 16:13   #2
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Boat: '76 Allied Seawind II, 32'
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have you tried just sliding the stainless rotor further back on the shaft?
otherwise, yes you can make the drip stop without running the engine to seat the gland. Just don't get silly tightening anything.
We've got the same bilge.....I'd go for the two bolt style.

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Old 26-12-2009, 18:01   #3
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You will have to loosen the prop shaft to get to coupling over the shaft. I would not tighten it much. use the gortex and hand tighten it. Also when you pull it check all your Thur hull and valves for workability I found some that were completely in operable and unfixable. If your not sure where the water is coming in check your chain plates. Also when you rebuild your shaft gland also do your rudder post if you have one. I found alot of watter would come in mine at times.
That derelict boat was another dream for somebody else, don't let it be your nightmare and a waste of your life.
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Old 26-12-2009, 18:04   #4
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Before you replace

Before you replace the PSS, try to slide the rotor down the shaft slightly. If the bellows has lost a little tension, or the rotor has managed to slip forward slightly, it will allow a leakage.
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