I have done a number of the old conventional blister repairs
Back in '04 I spent a year + of 70 hour / week in a yard in Pensacola
, doing a refit
to our boat. In this yard they did these Peel & barrier coat jobs regularly. The total prices were all over the place, but > $10,000 is not unusual!
The extent of the job, and cost, was largely a matter of how thorough a job you / they did, and how thick the hull
was from the get go.
The actual "peeling" was done by an outside contractor with vacuum assisted equipment
, and wearing a gorilla suit. It was REALLY fast, (like one or two days), and that part of the job alone, (cost wise), might be quite reasonable.
The thing was, the peeling process is quite inconsistent, and removes some of the hull! It will have to be RE-faired, BEFORE the multi step barrier coat process even starts. This is UNLESS a workboat standard is OK with you...
If it is an older hull that is like 7/8" or more thick, then the lost
hull thickness is not an issue. If it is a cored hull with a relatively thin outer layer, or a solid hull of only about 3/8" thick, the smart move is to fair AND add a layer of biaxial fabric
to the peeled portion of the bottom. This is a LOT of work! Most people didn't re-glass, but on an already thin hull, I would.
Also, after peeling, I would tape a plastic "skirt" from the WL to the ground, all around the hull, and put a dehumidifier under the skirt, for AT LEAST 2 months! Frequent acetone washdowns help too. = more yard time!
When the hull reads "dry" on a moisture meeter, THEN the above process or processes begin.
It might go something like this:
After a few coats of West resin, then a week of microlight fairing, (using a longboard), and more resin, ... (add glass or don't add glass, depending)
Then numerous coats of West barrier coat, sand well, and if the hull is fair enough, and no bare spots, then spray several coats of "Bar Rust" (2 part epoxy
used to line fuel
tanks), and as soon as it is firm enough, "hot coat" on the first layer of bottom paint
The work and cost can therefore, vary all over the place! If the hull only had 75 or so blisters
, the size of a quarter and just as deep as the gell coat, you can spot grind them out yourself, do the drying and acetone washing
process like above to your ground out spots only, then spot repair each one. This shouldn't weaken the hull, and after drying, you can do tha barrier coat process yourself. The above is not as good, but a fraction of the price
. You might still have a few more blisters
every haul out
, but you just repair them each time. This is what people did for years!
Neither scenario is guaranteed to work forever, but if you dry the hull A LOT before coating, and do whatever is necessary to KEEP A DRY BILGE
, it will extend your blister free time. (You can segregate the eng and /or shaft bilge
, and epoxy line it, and do the same around the base of the mast
if necessary. Just TRY to keep a dry bilge. It also lets you know RIGHT AWAY if you have a nascence leak.
Hope this helps, Mark