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Old 26-06-2011, 02:18   #16
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Re: Steel Sailboat Paint job

have a look at a good mono urethane paint too...it is easier to apply than a poly...so it is easy to touch up when you get a ding...and it is not expensive...and more flexible than a poly...urethanes are modern technology and superior to the old enamels.

shotblasting is a great idea too. but make sure that you get some paint on it within a few hours of blasting...and you need the temperature to be right too...summer time is the time to paint steel...and how about a tent over it to keep stuff in the air landing on it when wet...

i've been through all this on my 30 year old boat. it isn't hard but there is a correct process to get it right. don't paint if it is too cold or wet outside. i've heard of (genuinely) professional boat yards who go over steel with a heat gun before they paint so they are sure there is no moisture on the surface, a very good idea.
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Old 26-06-2011, 06:09   #17
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Re: Steel Sailboat Paint job

Help! I've some ameron sealer but not in the original cans, does anyone know which is the resin and which is the cure? One is clear the other dark. I need to know as they are different weights & I use digital kitchen scales to get the quantities right for small batches, it isn't 1:1 by weight, just volume.

Ta in advance
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Old 26-06-2011, 09:12   #18
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Re: Steel Sailboat Paint job

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Originally Posted by Delfin View Post
That's probably better advice. In fact, I'm reminded of the company Tnemec in Seattle. I bought their paint to do the metal railing on our deck. It is the company that supplies all of the paint to do bridges in Washington State. Major league industrial coatings and the polyurethane I got for the railing had a gloss, but not the lipgloss of Awlgrip. It was also very inexpensive. Tnemec Industrial Coatings and Architectural Coatings
Tnemec? You mean "cement" backwards? Hehhehhehhehh
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Old 27-06-2011, 13:44   #19
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Re: Steel Sailboat Paint job

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Tnemec? You mean "cement" backwards? Hehhehhehhehh
For reasons unknown except to the founders, that is why they named the company thus. Cement spelled backwards. Go figure.
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Old 27-06-2011, 14:12   #20
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Re: Steel Sailboat Paint job

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Originally Posted by conachair View Post
Help! I've some ameron sealer but not in the original cans, does anyone know which is the resin and which is the cure?
Reckon the resin is the clear stuff. Seems to kick anyway.

Here's what works for small batches for me - decant the paint into bottles of your choice. The tins will rust in the bilges anyway.
Put a small container, clean tin can or whatever on digital kitchen scales. Zero the scales. Pour in about 35g of resin plus about 30g of cure. (This is based on ameron sealer as the resin is heavier by volume than the cure, by about 15%)
Mix and leave for 10 minutes.
Touch up whatever it is that needs touching up.

Having the paint in bottles helps lots as it takes just a few moments to mix a batch without any mess. The thicker plastic juice bottles seem to be holding up so far.

Every time i use Ameron i like it better, especially the sealer, soaks in everywhere and dries rock solid.

Enjoy.
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