Stay Rigging Help

[Cyane]

I am looking at purchasing a Morgan O/I 415 through a n auction. She has some fire damage that will be easy to repair. My problem is who ever transported her to her current location cut all the stays to bring down the masts. My question is where can I find the info as to the length of each cable so I can replace them.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Cyane

I am looking at purchasing a Morgan O/I 415 through a n auction. She has some fire damage that will be easy to repair. My problem is who ever transported her to her current location cut all the stays to bring down the masts. My question is where can I find the info as to the length of each cable so I can replace them.

No pro rigger will go off of stock numbers, there are often slight discrepancies from boat to boat. Trim the boat level and hang a plumb bob from the masthead to make sure the stick is straight before taking the measurements with a 100' tape. Then you can use hi-mod terminals instead of swaging to do your own work. Make sure to measure twice and cut once!

[daddle]

Unless you are familiar with rigging you should hire a rigger. I wouldn't be so sure measuring with a tape would give a proper rig when all is done. It's more complicated than one might think.

[roverhi]

Yep, that's why I could do it with no previous experience. You can calculate the length if you or someone you know is good at higher level math. Measure the length of the mast to the rigging pin centers, measure the distance of the chainplates from the center point of the mast location at right angles, otherwise level with the base of the mast, and then calculate the length of the shrouds. Cap shrouds will be two length calculations, one is the height to the spreader the other is the side of the triangle to the masthead pin. Last, measure the height distance from the base of the mast that the chainplates etc are different and add this to the calculated length and you have the the total length of the stays and shrouds. Subtract out the length of the turnbuckles extended out to about 3/4 of their adjustable length to get the wire lenght. Did it that way on the 2nd boat I built.

Rerigged my current boat measuring the distances to the turnbuckles with a tape and/or the shroud. A combination of halyards will hold the mast up while you do all the measuring. Once the lowers are done and fitted, the mast will stand by itself and give you enough support to go the mast head in conjunction with the halyards.

If there is a question about length, err on the longer side. You can always cut more off and buy another cone to re-rig the terminal

I like Norseman Terminals but StaLoks basically work the same. Should be able to do a terminal in less than 10 minutes once you get the procedure down. My only experience with HiMod didn't turn out well but that could have been because of the way the owner cut the wire and tried to assemble the terminal.

[foolishsailor]

I second the Norse terminals. Since you aren't micro pressing the wire as long as you don't cut it too short it is easy.

In terms of using a tape, there is very little stretch to the tapes nowadays so you pull them snug and you will get accurate readings.

Don't do it on a windy day however as the wind will make it difficult to get accurate measures and play havoc with the tape.

Main point is to have the mast plumb for and aft and athwart ships. You can use the tape to achieve this as well.

Not difficult at all, fiddlely yes.

[Cyane]

Thanks everyone. Lots of good info. I did find a sight that has a compession splice that I can use on the existing lines. May be better than trying to figure it out on my own. I am, as Yosemite Sam would say, an "idgit" when it comes to doing math.