StarBoard vs Marine Plywood ?

[Ukeluthier]

Originally Posted by chrisjs

Why not use machine screws with a nut/washer?? It sounds like your application would allow this approach.

I suppose so, but I was looking for as clean a look as possible with the seat/cover either up or down.

[chrisjs]

Had to check what a barrel nut was!! You learn something every (some) day!! Thanks.

[a64pilot]

They are also sometimes called "sex bolts"

[Ukeluthier]

Doing a little research on fabricating with the stuff. Looks like I'd have to use something like brass threaded inserts if I didn't want thru-fasteners. Apparently doesn't hold regular screw threads very well.

[SaltyMonkey]

Other options besides StarBoard? Referring back to Gordo's #49 post and structural issues

[wesclow]

1.
I have replaced my boat flooring with starboard in some places.

2.
It gives under weight much much more than wood. In a two foot piece it will dip 6" under 250 pounds.

3.
It is much more expensive. It is not worth the extra money.

4.
Most importantly, but not unlike teak it is very slippery when wet. I have had several guests fall on the floor. It is similar to wet feet on a tile floor. This is a major safety hazard and will require rugs like tile and wood and marble floors.

5.
The fact starboard is plastic and immune to rotting does not matter. I submerged marine grade plywood wood 10 times, each time for the length of 24 hours. The plywood never rotted and was just as strong and back to normal after drying. So, you can say starboard will never rot, but in fact most wood on a sailboat never rots, so this should not be a factor in your decision in most cases. I cannot say all wood on all boats is the quality of marine grade 3/4" plywood as it is on my sailboat.

Just my humble opinion.

Safe sailing!

--Wes

[Cheechako]

Yeah, Starboard is pretty flexible, not near as rigid as ply.

[clockwork orange]

We use quite a bit of starboard at work, it has its place but it is in no way a substitute for proper BS1088 marine plywood. It is much too heavy, dimensionally unstable, not stiff at all. The only thing it has going for it is it does not need to be painted and it does not rot. That's it. I see it referred to as marine lumber, it is not. Lumber is an excellent engineering material while you cant engineer anything out of starboard.

Steve.

[Seacod]

Originally Posted by clockwork orange

We use quite a bit of starboard at work, it has its place but it is in no way a substitute for proper BS1088 marine plywood. It is much too heavy, dimensionally unstable, not stiff at all. The only thing it has going for it is it does not need to be painted and it does not rot. That's it. I see it referred to as marine lumber, it is not. Lumber is an excellent engineering material while you cant engineer anything out of starboard.

Steve.

well said!

[SV DestinyAscen]

If the application doesn't require constant moisture exposure with no opportunity to dry - plywood. Epoxy treat wet side if necessary.

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, Wes.

[WesHeald]

The companionway hatch on my Ericson 39 was marine ply. Moulding was screwed into the edges and now it looks like this. I plan to replace it with 1/2" starboard. I'm OK if it bends but will it break if someone steps on it?

[Delancey]

Originally Posted by WesHeald

The companionway hatch on my Ericson 39 was marine ply. Moulding was screwed into the edges and now it looks like this. I plan to replace it with 1/2" starboard. I'm OK if it bends but will it break if someone steps on it?

Have you considered 1/2" acrylic? Would let lots of light in to the cabin. Not sure what was original to the boat but would guess it was acrylic. 1/2" thick should be fine in terms of strength as is common thickness for most hatches and companionways. Probably somewhat comparable in cost to starboard.

[belizesailor]

Yeah, bad use for ply, especially if not of the marine variety.

I think it would be a fine use for starboard. Ive remade drop boards and related companionway trim in starboard before, but not the slider.

Starboard is available in a range of thicknesses. The thicker the stiffer, but thicker also is much heavier because its very dense. I have some 3/4" that is surprisingly heavy.

Thin starboard, like 1/4", is quite flexible, but Ive never bent it to breaking point. I expect that would take some special effort. Thicker stuff is much less flexible. I just cut some pieces from 3/4" that are about 2' x 1' and I suspect I could walk on them with no significant flex (untested).

If necessary I think you could add stringers to stiffen, but I think 3/4" alone would be fine. See if you can find a piece in stock somewhere to test.

[Cheechako]

If you are talking 1/4", starboard is too flexi, it wont break but it will warp big time. At 1/4" you could probably push the middle hard enough to have the edges come right out of the track. You could use thicker and rabbett the edges so only the edge is 1/4". I Cant quite tell what's what in your pic.