Standing Rigging Costs

[a64pilot]

Rough guess as to cost to have the standing rigging replaced on an IP38? Looking to buy one and trying to figure re-fit costs. Looking for an approx number to budget.
I can do other installs, but standing rigging I figure I had better pay to have done.
It cost about twice as much to go with Sta-Loks as opposed to swedged fittings?

[IdoraKeeper]

Some folks say do it yourself, on my previous boat we did exactly that. Never had a single issue. However on my current boat I am thinking like you. In the process today of finding someone to work with. I don't expect it to be cheap but there is a difference between expensive and excessive. Furthermore there is the matter of time....finding someone who will stay on task and finish. Also, if there is mission creep it has to come from me.

[Cheechako]

There's an extensive thread on this last year, maybe see if you can find it.
Also:
Will you remove the rigging or them?
If I remember from that thread the cost for a rigger to install Sta lok or other similars is $10-15 each (?) dont quote me on that but I do remember it being very reasonable.

[Orchidius]

The fittings themselves are really expensive, but they can be re-used until the end of days (the cones required are cheap).

Still, and don't quote me on this, 50$ a fitting taking into account you need two per stay and the boat has 8 or 9 stays... Plus the price of the SS cable and the install you're looking at quite some money.

Swaged fittings are usually 10-15$. I carry bulldog grips and plenty of extra cable, so I can jury-rig something up to limp into port.

[TacomaSailor]

Just went through this exercise on my Caliber 40 (which was designed as a 38' foot competitor for the IP38 - then they added a swimstep and called it a 40).

The cost varied by almost 100% depending on the type of connectors used and the method used to replace parts.

It could be done while still in the water but the riggers had to make dozens of trips up and down the mast. Or, leave the boat in the water, haul the mast and put it on a supports in the yard and do everything while working at chest level.

San Diego riggers charge about $75/hour going up and down the mast and a yard wanted $300 (round trip) to haul the mast and $20/day to have it sitting on supports in the yard.

The 1x19 wire ( 3/8" forestay, split backstay, three shrouds on each side (1/4", 5/16", 3/8") was going to be about $450.

Replacing all the connectors was $400 for swagged and $1,250 or Norseman.

The really big cost would be replacing the turnbuckles which I never planned to do. But, IF I had - the six shroud turnbuckles and toggles would have been another $450 or so. I did not look at turnbuckles on the backstay since I had put on CL Johnson adjusters in 2000 and they looked very good.

My prices are heavily discounted, probably over 33%, because I work with a guy who has professional accounts at many chandlerys. He was going to help me do the work and he figured his assistance would be about $200.

My rough estimate was $2,500 to $5,000 depending on how much work I did and what I found once I put the mast on the supports in the yard.

I paid two riggers $150 to spend two hours inspecting the 14 and 19-year old standing rigging. It was money very WELL SPENT!

The determined the standing rigging was in perfect condition and did not need replacement. I only had to replace one toggle on the bottom of the forestay.

[Tim R.]

I am in the process of having all my standing rigging replaced on my Caliber 40. It will be in the $3000-$3,500 range for swagged. That includes an insulator for the stbd backstay for the SSB antenna. I am doing all the work to disassemble and reassemble the two furlers with the new stays. Rig is already down and I will be installing the new rigging.

My rigging is the original and is 17 years old. It inspected fine by the same rigger but I have decided to replace anyway.

[hpeer]

I have a 33' steel cutter. I just replaced all the standing rigging, except fore stay. Sta Locs. 1/4" wire, 300 feet. Cost was a bit over $600.

Rigging Only.

Sta Locs are a good investment if for no other reason they lower the replacement cost, so you can replace more frequently. Not a bad safety feature.

[sailr69]

you can use swagging's on the upper ends and stayloc types on the bottom to save some money. if replacing wire, use 316 ss for salt water. installing staylocs are not hard to do but it is a measure twice cut once sort of thing

[a64pilot]

I've had one or two people tell me around 10K for swaged. Now that's turn key, but still way higher than I'm hearing here.
IF I buy this boat, it's in Daytona, I'm assuming the rigging is original, making it 27 yrs old.
Any good contacts for getting rigging replaced in South Fl? East or West side? Or should I wait until I get her home in Panama City and find someone there?
I've never done anything at all with rigging, plus I work so I just don't have the time. I think my time is better spent installing electronics and a Windlass etc., things I'm comfortable with.
I don't think it's worth while having the rigging surveyed as I gotta think even if it's OK, no-one would put there name on it due if nothing else to it's age.

[Dale Hedtke]

We recently reinsured our boat and several insurance companies (BoatUS, ACE, etc.) would require a rigging survey. We ended up with the Jackline policy from IMIS. Their policy covers standing rigging up until it is 15 years old.

In salt water this is a good rule.

We have replaced our rigging and ordered the stays with one end swaged on and used Sta-Loc fittings at the other end after cutting the cables to length. We did it with the rig down, but it wouldn't have been that hard to do it with the rig up. Figure on 6 trips at least to the mast head.

You can get a comparable price from the West Marine rigging shop. I'm not recommending them specifically, but they are easy to work with.

You are wise to replace the 27 year old rigging.

[Helios]

I received a quote to replace the standing rigging on my IP380 that was ~$3500. Planning to have the work done at the end of the season.

[HansSolo]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Any good contacts for getting rigging replaced in South Fl? East or West side?

I would get in contact with Brooks at Sailing Services in Miami. We replaced our rigging ourselves and had it all made through Sailing Services. Brooks was more than helpful throughout the whole process and even kept in touch afterwards to make sure it all turned out right. Im sure that he would be able to recommend a good locale rigger in Miami. He would more than likely be able to give you an accurate quote for the cost of materials as well. If your going through all of this trouble it would be wise to have the rigger take a look at your chainplates as well. At 27 they are due.

[roverhi]

Doing the work yourself is super simple using StaLok/Norseman terminals. Should be able to do it in a day in the water. Did a rough estimate for 3/8" 316 wire and Norseman terminals at something less than $2,650 from Defender. Throw in a Top Climber and you are just over $3,000. Would be cheaper for smaller diameter wire and fittings.

Rigging is not rocket science. Rigged my first boat, a Westsail 32, with no previous experience and sailed it to SoPac and back. Subsequent owner changed the wire but reused the Norseman Terminals and sailed to SoPac twice. Have changed the head and backstay on my current boat largely by myself only needing help to drop and rehoist the furler and that was only for a half hour or so.

I'm not a super fit 20 year old, just an old bald fat guy that can't see wasting money hiring someone to do what I can do easily.

[ssanzone]

about 6 months ago i got a quote of 4K for my newport41.

that was for the delivery of new rigging that i will install myself before the crane lifts and lowers.

This quote is from alameda ca.

-steve

[Paul L]

If you feel the IP rigging needs replacing, then the chainplates should probably be pulled for inspection and possible replacement. Not the easiest task on some IPs.