Stainless Rail Fittings

[amytom]

My rear rail set-up was rebuilt by a PO using the "set screw" type fittings:



These have a habbit of coming loose over time. How can I make them more permanent? Will JB-weld work along with the set-screw? should I just drill the set-screw hole all the way through and use a screw with a nylock nut?

[Pblais]

If you want it to be tighter you Can do one of two things.

1. Remove the set screw and drill a slight detent into the tube. This will let the set screw sit in the detent.

2. Better yet. Drill out the hole and tap it and insert a bolt. The screw head will show. make sure to use a 316 bolt perhaps only slightly bigger. I would use a round headed bolt. A Robertson head might look best but a Phillips is OK too. You don't want a hex head with edges to catch things on.

You should not need a nut on the other side and don't put any junk on it as it just makes it harder when it has to come apart. A threaded bolt can do a better job than the set screw. I have some of those and they have been there 18 years and 40,000 miles. They sort of work OK.

Anytime you say "Oh I'll never take that off" it means you will and probably soon. It really does not require that extra step to make it totally impossible to get off.

[Cheechako]

Drill the hole through the tube and install a SS pop rivet.

[David M]

In order to keep it pretty and original looking. I would partially bore out (just a tiny amount) the spot where the screw presses against the railing so it sits deeper in there giving it some more bite so it does not slide out. Then set the Alan screw in with some Blue Locktite. If the screw backs out again then use some Red Locktite. Thru-bolting will work but will not be the prettiest solution.

[amytom]

Thanks all. I think I'll tap out as Paul suggested. I think the set screws are 10-24 so I'll probably go up to 1/4-20 with 316 ss screws and a little blue locktight. Now to find a short enough 13/64" countersinking bit.

[slacker]

I have drilled and tapped all of my fittings (as well as stantions) for 1/4 x 28 screws 3/4" long. 28 tpi gives a bit more bite.

[amytom]

Originally Posted by slacker

I have drilled and tapped all of my fittings (as well as stantions) for 1/4 x 28 screws 3/4" long. 28 tpi gives a bit more bite.

That makes sense. Where did you find the 1/4-28 in 316ss? I've only been able to find 1/4-20

[partgypsy]

I'm up against a similar situation and with a twist. I am replacing the worn-out upper life line with 1" stainless tube. The orginal stanchions are some sort of mid-century 1" dia that is too large for the tee fittings that will hold the 21st century 1" tubing. I can't think of any alternative but to grind the diameter of the undersized hole to accept the old stanchion. However, I don't know what would be best to grind the s/s. Also will the process affect the strength of the fitting?

[Mike156]

McMaster-Carr stocks 1/4-28 round head machine screws in 300 series stainless.

In the printed catalog they are on page 3013 , Item # 91400A853..

The “Military Specification” machine screws are the 300 series.

I have my own salesman at McMaster-Carr so I don’t know how hard, or easy, it is to order stuff from them on the internet.

I don’t even know if the above page number - item number will help you find what you are looking for.

Mike

[FloridaWriter]

Originally Posted by amytom

My rear rail set-up was rebuilt by a PO using the "set screw" type fittings:



These have a habbit of coming loose over time. How can I make them more permanent? Will JB-weld work along with the set-screw? should I just drill the set-screw hole all the way through and use a screw with a nylock nut?

Blue LocTite.