Sprayhood bolting woes on Beneteau 49/50

[RedHeather]

This is one for Beneteau Oceanis 49 (aka 50) owners (2006 to 2010 models). We have a 2006 and are getting play on the feet of our sprayhood, which means they're no longer watertight. So we naturally want to detach them, clean the surfaces, caulk, and bolt everything back together. We can't find our way to the bolts from the inside of the boat though and wonder if anybody here ran into the same issue and found a solution. Usually Beneteaus are really well thought out in that regard but not for this particular bit of hardware, apparently. Attached are pictures from the outside and the inside. On the inside I tried finding my way from every access cutouts in the ceiling, including from the ceiling light in the picture. I even tried removing the hatch's OceanAir blind/mosquito-net assembly on the off chance there'd be a usable slit between the inner mold (ceiling) and the outer mold (outside deck) but unfortunately that OceanAir assembly seems glued onto the ceiling.





So if you ever found your way with a tool to that particular point, I'd be delighted to know how. Thanks!

[Stu Jackson]

Have you considered that they may not be thru-bolted, but rather simply screwed down? Have you removed one screw (or what you have been thinking of as a bolt), to see? Good luck.

[RedHeather]

Originally Posted by Stu Jackson

Have you considered that they may not be thru-bolted, but rather simply screwed down? Have you removed one screw (or what you have been thinking of as a bolt), to see? Good luck.

The nuts are actually top side as visible on the picture--which might require zooming in, especially if you're doing this on a smartphone. I have tried two nuts, was able to unscrew one but the other one has its bolt turning along so I have to get under there to keep it in place.

We have considered the bolts could have been glassed in originally but then what about people who don't want a sprayhood, and what about maintenance such as in our case? It would seem too poorly designed coming from Beneteau but then again they're not infallible and also cutting corners like the best of them.

[MarkSF]

My best guess is that they glassed the bolts in place. If the bolts are loose now, one option to remove the nuts is an electric cordless impact driver, like this one :

20V MAX* XR® Brushless Tool Connectâ„¢ Impact Driver Kit - DCF888D2 | DEWALT

Because it drives the nut with a series of shocks, it imparts very little force to the other fastener, the bolt in this case.

Another option - just grind or cut the nut off.

So lets assume that you've got all the nuts out. What to do next? The choice appears to be to re-bond the bolts in place (epoxy), or to remove them and through-bolt right through the deck and the liner. That's how it's done in my Bristol, with stainless steel backing plates inside.

[Utahsailor]

We have a Beneteau 49. Our dodger is screwed down, not bolted, as an aftermarket addition. In adding lots of gear we have used a variety of approaches, from adding a 4" inspection port to the headliner, to drilling a hole and popping a small cover into the hole. We apparently have some water intrusion port of the mast, with no access and will probably have to cut away the headliner and glue it back together after the repair is done.

[Deltasailor]

Originally Posted by Utahsailor

We have a Beneteau 49. Our dodger is screwed down, not bolted, as an aftermarket addition. In adding lots of gear we have used a variety of approaches, from adding a 4" inspection port to the headliner, to drilling a hole and popping a small cover into the hole. We apparently have some water intrusion port of the mast, with no access and will probably have to cut away the headliner and glue it back together after the repair is done.

I had a Jaguar (Car) in the 70s the only way to the starter motor was to remove the engine or cut a hole in the passenger foot well. Do what you have to do. I cut a hole and patched it up to look like it was intended.

[Lambretta]

Originally Posted by Stu Jackson

Have you considered that they may not be thru-bolted, but rather simply screwed down? Have you removed one screw (or what you have been thinking of as a bolt), to see? Good luck.

I agree with Stu
That is why there is a raised section (looks like at least 15mm in the photo) that has been used to fix the bolts into the coachroof under the foot of the base of the spray hood arm. I cannot see another reason for building that raised section so high (and narrow - which does not spread the load of the foot)

Do both the feet of the spray hood have bolts that are turning on the base plate as the other one might give you a clue if you can unscrew both nuts?

Hope this helps

[RedHeather]

Thanks for all the replies so far. I managed to disassemble the port side yesterday. Turns out originally the sprayhood must simply have been screwed in but I'm facing a repair of a previous owner. Now there are two additional holes in the fiberglass to the center of the original ones. In these, a metal plate is screwed (again) which in turn holds the two bolts that are fastening the sprayhood.

Needless to say that these two new holes are worn out too by all the vibrations and stress the sprayhood is relentlessly subjected too while sailing.

It's going to be quite a bit of work to do right but I'm determined to bolt it through the deck with a decent backing plate. I'll post again when I'm done. My immediate PITA is to clean out all the caulk that was injected in that cavity. I may end up cutting an access panel in the ceiling only because of that to begin with.

Here are some pictures (the yellow strings were ment to prevent the bolts from falling in while disassembling things but it turned out there was no danger for this to happen).

[Lambretta]

Originally Posted by RedHeather

Thanks for all the replies so far. I managed to disassemble the port side yesterday. Turns out originally the sprayhood must simply have been screwed in but I'm facing a repair of a previous owner. Now there are two additional holes in the fiberglass to the center of the original ones. In these, a metal plate is screwed (again) which in turn holds the two bolts that are fastening the sprayhood.

Needless to say that these two new holes are worn out too by all the vibrations and stress the sprayhood is relentlessly subjected too while sailing.

It's going to be quite a bit of work to do right but I'm determined to bolt it through the deck with a decent backing plate. I'll post again when I'm done. My immediate PITA is to clean out all the caulk that was injected in that cavity. I may end up cutting an access panel in the ceiling only because of that to begin with.

Here are some pictures (the yellow strings were ment to prevent the bolts from falling in while disassembling things but it turned out there was no danger for this to happen).

Attachment 154678

Attachment 154679

Thanks for the update
Great progress and I agree with your route of repair ..... Do it right the first time

[Terra Nova]

Standard procedure would be to install a deck plate in the headliner to provide access to nuts and a backing plate. Where there is no space between headliner and deck, simply through-bolt with backing plate and acorn nuts.

[Cheechako]

DRILL ACCESS IN HEADLINER, USE PLUGS.

[David B]

Originally Posted by RedHeather

This is one for Beneteau Oceanis 49 (aka 50) owners (2006 to 2010 models). We have a 2006 and are getting play on the feet of our sprayhood, which means they're no longer watertight. So we naturally want to detach them, clean the surfaces, caulk, and bolt everything back together. We can't find our way to the bolts from the inside of the boat though and wonder if anybody here ran into the same issue and found a solution. Usually Beneteaus are really well thought out in that regard but not for this particular bit of hardware, apparently. Attached are pictures from the outside and the inside. On the inside I tried finding my way from every access cutouts in the ceiling, including from the ceiling light in the picture. I even tried removing the hatch's OceanAir blind/mosquito-net assembly on the off chance there'd be a usable slit between the inner mold (ceiling) and the outer mold (outside deck) but unfortunately that OceanAir assembly seems glued onto the ceiling.

Attachment 154440

Attachment 154441

So if you ever found your way with a tool to that particular point, I'd be delighted to know how. Thanks!

Looking at the current installation (the nyloc nuts, and ugly washers), this was done by a previous owner - definitely not factory. So originally it was self-tapping screws, and no need for access from below. Two options come to mind.
1. Remove as you can (cutting, whatever), then reinforce the area with glass-filled polyester or epoxy, then re-drill, and re-screw.
2. remove as above, then cut a slot large enough to slip a pre-threaded backing plate in, re-glass, and remount with machine screws.

You could also source a couple of round plastic bungs as used by Beneteau etc for various access points below (usually found in lockers etc), then cut suitable sized holes below, and when done snap in the bungs, but frankly, I see no need to spoil the interior finish that way.

Just one last thought - it may just be possible to slip that same threaded plate in through the downlight hole, then grab with a fixing screw from above, inject resin from above to help fix the plate, and also to fill the old holes.

Hope that helps,

David