Sooo Ready to get Back in the Water...

[Suijin]

Happy...

I've rolled and tipped a few smaller boats and you really need to have controlled conditions to get a dark color to flow properly and come out stellar. This had to be done outside and with Awlcraft running $200+ per gallon I was more inclined to pay someone to spray it. I did all the sanding/fairing/solvent washing/taping but am not good enough with a sprayer to do that step.

CaptForce...

That was part of the arsenal the technique, particularly around the corners from the outside. That and a series of picks to break it up. For most of the cavity, the Fein multi tool with a blade sharpened on both sides did pretty well.

Minaret...

With the 5200 being 1.5" thick through the cabin side wall, Anti-bond seemed like it would be time-consuming (waiting for it to work, digging, then reapplying), expensive ($30 for 4oz., ouch), and messy. I'll probably use it for clean up as there is a lot of the 5200 still to get off when the ports are out. That said I've never used the stuff so if it is penetrating then it would help. If you have suggestions for application I'm all ears.

[minaret]

Those aerosol cans go a surprisingly long way. Spray it on your sharpened putty knife as you drive it in to get it to penetrate and make the knife cut better. If it saves you an hour it's more than paid for itself. And it will, especially as you say for final clean up.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by HappyMdRSailor

Good one!

It was good fun looking these up....

Think about it; Jaws would just bite a big hole in the cabin side where each port used to be. Goldfinger and Dr. No would both insist on using a nuke to get a porthole out, and while that may seem appealing to the OP at this point, I don't think it's advisable. Odd Job is clearly the anti-Bond of choice for this project, he has the required precision sliciness.

[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by Suijin

Happy...

I've rolled and tipped a few smaller boats and you really need to have controlled conditions to get a dark color to flow properly and come out stellar. This had to be done outside and with Awlcraft running $200+ per gallon I was more inclined to pay someone to spray it. I did all the sanding/fairing/solvent washing/taping but am not good enough with a sprayer to do that step.
.

I've sprayed about 10 cars, and had incredibly good luck, But I've both heard and read that a hull is COMPLETELY new territory... Plus you're talking a LOT more investment than a PU on a car square footage! I almost figure that whipping out the wet paper and blocks would be required for me for either method... I guess hiring "the guy" was really the wisest move!

Any clean up to the finish? Or did "the guy" just do a superb job!?!

Originally Posted by minaret

Think about it; Jaws would just bite a big hole in the cabin side where each port used to be. Goldfinger and Dr. No would both insist on using a nuke to get a porthole out, and while that may seem appealing to the OP at this point, I don't think it's advisable. Odd Job is clearly the anti-Bond of choice for this project, he has the required precision sliciness.

I'm totally with ya now!!! I was thinking jaws... but what a mess after huh? Odd Job indeed is the proper "Anti-Bond" for the job!

[Suijin]

OK new question. The port lights came with rolls of butyl tape which the manufacturer, NFM, recommends for bedding. The cutouts have a lot of 5200 residue, and given the roughness of some of the cutouts, getting every last molecule of it off/out is going to be a real time suck.

Related to that, the existing cutouts are, much to my chagrin, 3/4" taller vertically than the height of the flange top to bottom, which leaves 3/8" gap top and bottom. One solution to getting a clean surface would be to simply rout out the opening a bit bigger, but 3/8" already seems like a big gap to stuff with butyl tape.

If I leave the top and bottom cutout surfaces as they are, and clean out as much of the 5200 as reasonably possible, will the butyl create an effective seal against any residual 5200?

Minaret, thanks for the suggestion on the Anti-bond. I was doing that cost calculation in my head as I was typing my last response, thinking that it might make sense. I'll buy some first thing in the morning and give it a try. Where it will be most useful is on the inside flange of the port light which is also bedded in 5200. There are three port lights where replacing the formica (or in once case, teak veneer) would be an enormous hassle.

[Nicholson58]

Have you tried heat? I have been able to break the 5200 bond with careful use of a torch. pack around nearby if you need to with wet rags but if you direct the flame only at the aluminum, should be able to free them.

[minaret]

Anytime! It's not the be all end all, just one more tool in the tool box. But they all help and options are good.


Try a drum sander chucked into a cordless to remove the residue.

[Nicholson58]

Try an extremely sharp wood chisel and a firm hand. I use an 800 grit belt on the sander to sharpen.

[minaret]

Tormek with honing jig. The ultimate in tool sharpening. I finish with Japanese waterstones. The Nagura is 10k grit. In Japan you are only allowed to sharpen tools for the first year of your apprenticeship. No tool meets wood till you know how to maintain it.



But honestly, a 60 grit drum sander will take it to bare glass in a couple of minutes per porthole. Get a big one. They are dirt cheap.

[bill good]

Check out the range of oscillating cutters about. It cut off deck bits that I could not shift. i.e. dremel multi max etc.

Regards

[Cap Erict3]

Originally Posted by Suijin

Related to that, the existing cutouts are, much to my chagrin, 3/4" taller vertically than the height of the flange top to bottom, which leaves 3/8" gap top and bottom. One solution to getting a clean surface would be to simply rout out the opening a bit bigger, but 3/8" already seems like a big gap to stuff with butyl tape.

3/8 + 3/8 = 3/4 That seems a lot of surface area to lose.


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[Suijin]

Originally Posted by Cap Erict3

3/8 + 3/8 = 3/4 That seems a lot of surface area to lose.

Yeah I've decided I'm going to fillet the top and bottom edges with epoxy and build them up to the specified opening height. The edges are a bit irregular, which I suppose was OK back then since they were just filling them up with 5200.

Going to try heat directly on the frame, a bridge and clamps, and Anti-bond today on two of the ports where interior damage will be difficult to repair.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Suijin

Yeah I've decided I'm going to fillet the top and bottom edges with epoxy and build them up to the specified opening height. The edges are a bit irregular, which I suppose was OK back then since they were just filling them up with 5200.

Going to try heat directly on the frame, a bridge and clamps, and Anti-bond today on two of the ports where interior damage will be difficult to repair.

Heat is very good. But if you are reusing the portholes I prefer a heat gun to a torch. Less likely to damage the part.

[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by Suijin

Yeah I've decided I'm going to fillet the top and bottom edges with epoxy and build them up to the specified opening height. The edges are a bit irregular, which I suppose was OK back then since they were just filling them up with 5200.

Going to try heat directly on the frame, a bridge and clamps, and Anti-bond today on two of the ports where interior damage will be difficult to repair.

It was a little hard to picture at first... But I think you're on to the proper install with the thickened epoxy... Shouldn't be any problem to shape perfectly .... Certainly far less time than the removal !!! (and less swearing)

Originally Posted by minaret

Heat is very good. But if you are reusing the portholes I prefer a heat gun to a torch. Less likely to damage the part.

+1.... You need to "intentionally" focus the heat gun a bit longer than a torch when considering collateral damage!

[SaltyMonkey]

YOU added the wind vane OUT of the water?