Soft Spots on the Deck

[jdoe71]

Originally Posted by Celestialsailor

your deck area is finished...Still want to repair decks?

Must have taken you a beer or two just to write that out! Great description of the process though. Couple of questions/observations??

If you were doing a 2X6 area on deck it's almost a guarantee you're going to be cutting into non-skid. What's your approach to that? Enlarge the area to outside the non skid? I hear that getting the upper skin off core that is still solid and well bonded is very difficult. I've never heard of a good way of fixing the non-skid to have a non-visible repair. Perhaps fill the non-skid flush on each side of the seams for a few inches? Fixing it from below is a possibility but I've heard that is like showering in a toxic gel and to be avoided at almost any cost.

Small voids in deck layup that are less than 20 sq. in. are really common in production boats. In my experience they can easily be fixed by injecting thickened epoxy from above or below. After determining the area, I use two 1/4" holes at opposite sides, one for stuff in and one for stuff out when it's full. Put a small bung on the injection device to seal that hole as you're injecting it and when it comes out the other side it should be full.

Thanks again for the great description of the process.

[Celestialsailor]

Being born Hamilton, Ont GordMay, I have put away a few two fours of Five Oh...

[JohnnyC]

Celestialsailor

That was beautiful. You could make a living writing about boat repair!

If you lube the screws with car wax or beeswax they come out a lot more easily once the epoxy has set.

John

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by Celestialsailor

Being born Hamilton, Ont GordMay, I have put away a few two fours of Five Oh...

I was a Crystal man myself, but switched to Stella, now that I only drink them 1 at a time.

[Celestialsailor]

Sadly...I had to give up that life style. Apparently I drank my share and a few others. Do like the acetone and epoxy though...What was my name again???

[Celestialsailor]

Originally Posted by jdoe71

Must have taken you a beer or two just to write that out! Great description of the process though. Couple of questions/observations??

If you were doing a 2X6 area on deck it's almost a guarantee you're going to be cutting into non-skid. What's your approach to that? Enlarge the area to outside the non skid? I hear that getting the upper skin off core that is still solid and well bonded is very difficult. I've never heard of a good way of fixing the non-skid to have a non-visible repair. Perhaps fill the non-skid flush on each side of the seams for a few inches? Fixing it from below is a possibility but I've heard that is like showering in a toxic gel and to be avoided at almost any cost.

Small voids in deck layup that are less than 20 sq. in. are really common in production boats. In my experience they can easily be fixed by injecting thickened epoxy from above or below. After determining the area, I use two 1/4" holes at opposite sides, one for stuff in and one for stuff out when it's full. Put a small bung on the injection device to seal that hole as you're injecting it and when it comes out the other side it should be full.

Thanks again for the great description of the process.

-Non skid comes in many different styles lets say. My Tartan Blackwatch was a stipple rolled LPU and Cabosil combo. If it was a molded diamond shape non-skid, get out the triangular file and 2 cases of beer. Please remember, I switch from epoxy to polyester resin for the sake of deck skin compatability. Epoxy does not do well with the UV rays from the sun. Even though polyester resin will not stck to epoxy, it will bond the skinn back to the deck quite well with the F/G rope strands and IS IT STRONG!
-If they are truly voids and a drill test shouls prove if its wel or not, then the epoxy injection is a good way to go.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by dharvard

I would love to hear from someone who has actually worked on his or her boat's deck soft spots. Who has mixed up some core-fix material (glass shavings, wood shavings, epoxly, etc?) and injected it into troubled areas. I ask this because the lovely 1973 Tartan 41 we are considering buying has this problem -- port and starboard -- near the companionway entrance.

Also: Does anyone have any recommendations / a source for wood or glass "blocks" onto which one could place/move mainsheet traveler to the coach roof. Mine is now in the cockpit --- on bridge deck seat in front of companionway entrance ---which hinders installation of dodger where I would like ...

Dixon in Michigan

Just a word of warning... whatever you know before you buy it is probably 20% of everything that is wrong!