Soft Dodger or Hard Dodger - Pros / Cons

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by Duke 48

Thanks for the feedback. We especially appreciate the photos. With the current configuration on BELIEVE we only have about 18" between coach roof / deck and the boom. Also, the boom is end sheeted with the traveler mounted on the bridge deck. If anyone has a dodger mounted with a similar arrangement a picture would help us visualize what BELIEVE could look like.
Thanks - Duke (& Princess-di)

Similar arrangement to us although we have a bit more height from coachroof to boom. We do like folding the sprayhood (uk name) down on a nice day and just sailing along, whilst they are very effective at keeping the rain out. Wouldn't not have one either hard or soft and for sailing in the UK side dodgers too.



Pete

[Duke 48]

Originally Posted by imagine2frolic

If you build a hard dodger. Put in some rain gutters that can be hand grips also. Then you have a water catchment system too. I was surprised at how much rain can be caught in a small area.........i2f

Adding a water catchment is an excellent idea for our planned coastal cruising. So, if we go with a hard dodger it will be included.

I cannot believe the helpful responses we have received on this thread. Though truthfully, I'm not sure it is making our choice any easier.
You folks are great. - Duke

[Extemporaneous]

If...... you decide to goes hard, perhaps this thread may help??

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ger-24884.html

Cheers,
Extemp.

[SkiprJohn]

Hey Celestial,
I see your new signature line. Did you get that HR? If so, congratulations are in order.
kind regards,

[Celestialsailor]

Hi John...The check left my hands Saturday...it's just money...right? I think I will re-name the boat..."My last boat IV"!

[steamgoat]

Another vote for ''Wavestopper' rugged stainless frame,fibreglass top and flexible removable front and side screens, and it looks pleasing to the eye !

[Boracay]

I only have experience with a hard dodger on Boracay, but from my perspective:-

Pros: - Easier to DIY, cheaper, many more options for glazing, stronger, can have solid hand grips, can rest boom on dodger, wiring to lights etc easier, instruments etc. can be mounted inside, user maintainable.

Cons: - Can be fiendishly difficult and time consuming to build (not a proper right angle anywhere), modifications not simple, heavy, cannot be easily removed, a well made canvass/SS one looks more "yachty", glazing suppliers don't have a clue what you're talking about, no industry standards that I know of...

I built the one on Boracay of wood/laminated ply after I lost count of how much a SS/canvass one would cost.

[Extemporaneous]

Originally Posted by Boracay

I only have experience with a hard dodger on Boracay, but from my perspective:-

Pros: - Easier to DIY, cheaper, many more options for glazing, stronger, can have solid hand grips, can rest boom on dodger, wiring to lights etc easier, instruments etc. can be mounted inside, user maintainable.

Cons: - Can be fiendishly difficult and time consuming to build (not a proper right angle anywhere), modifications not simple, heavy, cannot be easily removed, a well made canvass/SS one looks more "yachty", glazing suppliers don't have a clue what you're talking about, no industry standards that I know of...

I built the one on Boracay of wood/laminated ply after I lost count of how much a SS/canvass one would cost.

Do you happen to remember the laminate schedule you used?
Would you use the same again?

Thanks,
Extemp.

[Boracay]

I used 3 layers of 1/4" (7mm) exterior grade ply for the dodger top, laminated together with 5:1 generic epoxy thickened with "pulverised" cotton fibres. I cut the plywood to approximate size, then allowed it to take its natural curve for laminating. I used multiple clamps to keep the joint tight.

I put a layer of fibreglass cloth on top to further protect from the elements.

The sides and front were made up in the same way, sans fibreglass, but kept flat.

I planned 35x70 structural pine to size for the framing.

It was all protected with a coat of epoxy rein, and I used exterior grade acrylic paint to protect the epoxy.

My biggest mistake was not to build a mould or formers first. The framing was not stiff enough to keep it aligned. Its very difficult to get everything straight when its hanging in mid air.

I should have specified the acrylic thickness in writing..., though 5mm seems to be working fine. Should have done the rebate for the acrylic glazing when I made the sides and front. Easier and neater to drill oversize holes in acrylic than to make additional framing.

I had 3mm stainless plate welded to the cabin top for rear supports. Something more substantial would have been a good idea. The front is supported by an existing steel "breakwater that was on the cabintop when I brought the boat.

If I had the money, trusted the tradespersons and the materials were available I'd go for 1 1/4" stainless tube as framing and sunbrella with that fancy scratch resistant glazing they were talking about in another thread.

[Extemporaneous]

Boracay,
Thanks for taking the time to write that up.
Hopefully I can learn something from it.

Best Regards,
Extemp.

Originally Posted by Boracay

I used 3 layers of 1/4" (7mm) exterior grade ply for the dodger top, laminated together with 5:1 generic epoxy thickened with "pulverised" cotton fibres. I cut the plywood to approximate size, then allowed it to take its natural curve for laminating. I used multiple clamps to keep the joint tight.

I put a layer of fibreglass cloth on top to further protect from the elements.

The sides and front were made up in the same way, sans fibreglass, but kept flat.

I planned 35x70 structural pine to size for the framing.

It was all protected with a coat of epoxy rein, and I used exterior grade acrylic paint to protect the epoxy.

My biggest mistake was not to build a mould or formers first. The framing was not stiff enough to keep it aligned. Its very difficult to get everything straight when its hanging in mid air.

I should have specified the acrylic thickness in writing..., though 5mm seems to be working fine. Should have done the rebate for the acrylic glazing when I made the sides and front. Easier and neater to drill oversize holes in acrylic than to make additional framing.

I had 3mm stainless plate welded to the cabin top for rear supports. Something more substantial would have been a good idea. The front is supported by an existing steel "breakwater that was on the cabintop when I brought the boat.

If I had the money, trusted the tradespersons and the materials were available I'd go for 1 1/4" stainless tube as framing and sunbrella with that fancy scratch resistant glazing they were talking about in another thread.

[sobraon]

Hi Duke,

We had agonized over the same issue of hard or soft dodger prior to leaving on our circumnavigation. We had sailed for 5 years without an enclosure and knew that we couldn't do the long passages without one. The main issue for me was aesthetics as I am not a big fan of large cockpit structures on cetre cockpit boats as that would spoil the classic lines of Spirit of Sobraon.

We chose to build a combined hard windscreen with a rigid soft bimini similar to that on the Canadian built Gozzards. The windscreen has graphite edged tempered glass and the bimini is stamoid with polycarb clears. We are extremely happy with the way it looks and the protection it provides.

We have cruised about 10,000 miles since it's installation and can't believe that it took so long for us to decide to install it. It provides a snug and comfortable enclosure during night watches and even during monsoon gales we remain dry.

It can be raised on a sail track that is secured to the top of the windscreen for those days that we want the open cockpit feel whilst still providing sun protection
.


I detailed the design and construction of the dodger on our Maintenance and Projects pages of our Website. Windscreen and Bimini

I hope it provides you with some food for thought. We wouldn't be without it and we continually have other cruisers comment on how good it looks and how clear the screens are.

Garry and Wendy
Spirit of Sobraon
Home Page: Spirit of Sobraon's Travel Log The...

[Kiwikat]

After retiring from years of racing with neither on our Farr 1104, we first cut out the bridge deck where the traveller was and put a hard dodger on and stuck the traveller on the top of that before heading up to the Pacific Islands. It was the second best thing we ever did to the boat.

Last year we added a folding soft bimini with all round zip in covers. That was the best thing yet. It may not be the prettiest thing but it sure as heck is practical, in both sunny and wet windy weather.

Cheers

[Duke 48]

KIwikat, Did you have to raise your boom to reinstall your travler? Duke

[Kiwikat]

Originally Posted by Duke 48

KIwikat, Did you have to raise your boom to reinstall your travler? Duke

Good point. Yes we did, cannot remember exactly how much, about 300mm (12 inches) or less. Can check that next time at the boat. We actually have an extra 800mm on the mast height compared to the standard 1104 rig so we weren't too concerned about losing sail area (just a bit off the top) and never really noticed any difference in performance anyway.

[Marksman]

This dodger was added to Maelstrom by the PO so I can't comment on the cost, I can say I'm impressed with how well the designer/manufacturer was able to interface with the odd curves and other geometry involved. It has covers for the plastic windows that prolong their life and on hot sunny days at the dock provide some relief from the green house effect (not a frequent problem in our part of the world). the other plus is the forward facing panels can be unzipped, rolled up and fastened out of the way to let the breeze through when you want it, or with just a little more effort you can remove the whole thing for cleaning or whatever. She originally had end boom sheeting but one of the PO's moved the traveler to the cabin top which makes more room for the dodger (more expense but helpful). Good luck with your decision.