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Old 23-03-2013, 06:42   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeanathon

I'm sure you are right, but it wasn't well done. The plug was at least 7 in. from the bottom of the bilge. Far enough up that it was hard to see from the inside.
Hopefully after refurbishing there will be no more leaks and no need for it.
I suggest that leaving a garboard plug in is useful provided the boat is going to be in a region where it needs to be dry docked for winter months. I thought you were taking it to Florida so not sure of the circumstance. In any case, it does not hurt to have it as you can open it up to dry things out when in dry dock.
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Old 23-03-2013, 06:59   #17
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Definitely leave it. Many boats have them and they were typically installed for good reason.

Here is a better installation. Would be about the same amount of work to do it right rather than close it up:
http://www.alohaowners.com/?option=c...er-in-the-keel..

And this mentions shallow bilges so it is good insurance during layup to have one:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/reviews/redwing30.htm

Best of luck. She is a pretty boat.
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Old 23-03-2013, 07:03   #18
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Lol. I think I may have just referenced aloha_float's installation, or at least the same one. If so, very nice job!
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Old 23-03-2013, 07:20   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeanathon View Post
Okay first question.
What is it? I cannot see from the inside because of the floor boards. I can touch what feels like a small piece of metal maybe a quarter inch in diameter. Probably the center bit.
This does not appear to be from a thru hull since nothing is running to or near it.
Any ideas?
That appears to be a transom drain plug fitting from a trailerable power boat. You have the beginnings of a great boat. Fix it properly. Remove the fitting, read up and make a proper fiberglass hull repair. Superficial glass with filler behind is NOT a good idea. Try http://www.westsystem.com/ss/repairi...in-fiberglass/ Keep the dream alive!!!
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Old 24-03-2013, 07:35   #20
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All good links, thank you.
Aloha the plug is so high up it is of little use. I could almost bail water to that level with a bucket.
Lisailor she does indeed have a shallow bilge. And thank you for the compliment.
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Old 24-03-2013, 07:36   #21
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Dana,
Thank you for the link it will be most useful.
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:52   #22
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Re: So it begins

If you're interested I have a, never used, Bronze Perko Garboard Drain Plug (PKO-0124000PLB) that I was going to install some years ago. It got lost in the shuffle and I ended up buying another one. Found it two year ago, in our house.

If you look on the web it you'll see it's a lot better design than what you have. The plug is designed for an allen wrench so it doesn't protrude. I also have a few other bronze fittings.

Currently, we're without a boat and at 70 I'm thinking about something trailerable, like an F-27, etc. So if you're interested, I have no use for them and am happy to sell them cheap.
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Old 08-04-2013, 16:47   #23
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Watercolor,
Thank you for the offer, but I decided to cgass it over. While I was gone a rain storm blew off the tarp, and the bilge was three quarters full. But the water level still was not up to the drain height.
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Old 08-04-2013, 18:34   #24
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Re: So it begins

No problem. I've had these parts for a while, just need to find them a home.

I saw a Southern Cross that had been left out in VT for a winter, uncovered. Water got into the bilge and into the keel. That spring the keel was split in two lengthwise.

I believe your boat has a hung and faired metal keel so you shouldn't have the same problem.

Not sure you'll have the same issues in NC. But you might put some non-toxic anti-freeze in the bilge just to be sure.

Glassing in the hole sounds like a good idea
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Old 08-04-2013, 20:31   #25
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Watercolor,
What other parts do you have? I need just about everything.
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Old 11-04-2013, 18:53   #26
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Re: So it begins

Okay another question for those of you who have done it. I have built a custom holding tank since there was not one at all. Now I need to plumb it. I like this idea because it is simple and does not require electricity, but.....
With my limited understanding it looks to me that if you use the manual pump to pump overboard the holding tank the holding tank would just be full of raw sea water? Anyone have pratical experience with this setup?
Here is the text from Cali's state site where I found it.

2. Overboard discharge option after the holding tank.

A diverter "Y" valve is installed in the line between the holding tank and deck pumpout fitting to allow the tanks contents to be pumped overboard where legal (in the ocean beyond the three mile limit). The "Y" valve must be secured to prevent over board discharge in the Chesapeake Bay and it's tributaries.
Advantages:

  • All sewage is pumped into the holding tank.
  • Boat will use pumpout facility in port. When beyond the three mile limit, untreated sewage can be pumped directly overboard. If a type I or II sewage treatment system is installed, treated sewage can be pumped directly overboard as well, unless the boat is in "No Discharge" waters.
Disadvantages:

  • None
Note: A "Y" valve is not required in this option. The deck pumpout fitting and the overboard through-hull valve are normally pressure tight and will function alternatively as selected. Use of a "Y" valve however, will keep unused sections of the hose or pipe from being unnecessarily "wet" (filled with sewage) and provide an additional safeguard against accidental overboard discharge. If a "Y" valve is not installed and secured when operating within the three mile offshore limit, the discharge through-hull valve must be so secured.
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Old 12-04-2013, 14:24   #27
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Re: So it begins

The design you chose is a good one. However, is the tank a side output/input port as described in the picture of a top output/input port unit?
Also where does the tank reside. things like above/level with/below the head? Is the output through the hull via a seacock/ball valve or simply a thru-hull?

Sometimes I think a few individual valves are better than a y-valve.

I've been playing with head system designs for some time. Would enjoy thinking about the options.
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Old 13-04-2013, 06:51   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Watercolor
The design you chose is a good one. However, is the tank a side output/input port as described in the picture of a top output/input port unit?
Also where does the tank reside. things like above/level with/below the head? Is the output through the hull via a seacock/ball valve or simply a thru-hull?

Sometimes I think a few individual valves are better than a y-valve.

I've been playing with head system designs for some time. Would enjoy thinking about the options.
Watercolor,
I still have some options as the holding tank is half built. Currently the head is direct discharge with a seacock. The head is below the waterline. The bottom of the tank I am building is about level with the bottom of the head. I was planning to top mount the intake / outtake with a pickup because a sidemount would go through a bulkhead and I am a bit leary of this, but still doable. There is no vented loop currently, but need one. I will post pictures. Thank you for your interest / help.
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Old 14-04-2013, 09:49   #29
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Re: So it begins

I'm a real advocate for top mounted input/output ports and vents as long as you have the overhead space. A top mounted vent is probably more important than the top mounted input/output port. Will you have a clean-out port? I think that they're a good idea, if possible. Also, how will you be connecting the ports and fittings?

What material are you using for the tank?

Fair winds
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Old 14-04-2013, 10:21   #30
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For the heads on my boat, I followed the west advisor...http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...s#.UWrW5Mu9KSM
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