So I think i'm going to go a with Synthetic teak deck

[SailRedemption]

Originally Posted by David B

Yes, it's the white'ish areas on the teak in first photo that the brightener transforms back to fresh teak look.


TSP - thanks - learn something every day.

Thanks, yea those might not be there anymore as that was before I sanded the caulk/decks after caulking. It was raining before I left to go to work so I'll know this time home.

See more @ redemptiverepair.com

[SailRedemption]

David,
I'm about to purchase the Semco products for my teak decks.. Quick question, how many kits of the cleaner did you need for your boat? We have similarly sized boats so I figured I'd ask. I don't want to order 1 and it not be enough, likewise, order two and not need the second..

Hope all is well in the Med!

Ronnie

[David B]

Hello Ronnie,

We - especially because we had to look for it in the Med and have it delivered to our boat, ordered more than we needed, so we still have a fair bit left over but will use it eventually. From memory (it was back in 2013), we used two cleaning kits, but then the teak was only a year old then, so not too much of an issue to clean. If you want to be safe, then I suggest ordering three cleaning kits.
As for the actual sealer, for the first time, the teak will be thirsty. Again, as I recall, we used the equivalent of 6 small tins for the initial two coats. I suggest you order a gallon tin, then at least another 4 smaller tins (as I suspect with you, I don't like tins hanging around - especially large half empty ones).

If it is easy for you to obtain Semco over where you are then that is probably enough, but for us, we have an extra few of the smaller tins stowed for annual re-coating, and frankly, tucked away in a plastic bin they don't take up much room, and it is good to have them ready when we are.

As to application, from our experience, I offer the following:
1. I suggest you do this at the end of the day, so that there is no issue with your decks drying - we did ours in the evening, and finished under floodlights.
Check this, but from memory, the instructions are to wet the deck first. Squirt the cleaner on, starting at the bow, and 'massage into the teak using a very soft deck brush such as a Swobbit'. Just leave for a few minutes at a time, then rinse down with fresh water. It is aggressive (and they say so on the label). You will find the softer parts of the wood turn to pulp and wash away to SOME extent. So in case that concerns you, where we had totally flat and smooth decks as out of the factory, when finished we had SLIGHT tramlining on SOME areas of timber (others where the timber was tighter grained, there was no effect). So at the worst, you will end up with clean decks that look no more tramlined than decks that have been exposed to a few years of weathering.

2. Once you have done all of the deck, check that you are happy it is totally clean, and if not, re-do the yet-to-be-perfect areas. Then rinse down very, very well.

3. Now for the magic. Once the decks have drained properly, so that they are wet, but not shiny wet, and no pooling (just brush excess water down and over the side), in the same way, squirt on the neutraliser. Immediate 'Wow'! with the colour restoration. Squirt and slosh the neutraliser all over, then before it dries, wash down very well again (ideally do the whole deck so you are not wetting too much, the deck yet to be treated with neutraliser).

4. The second 'Wow' is the next morning when you see your dry deck. Ours looked like it had just come out of the factory.

5. Once dry, see if there are any areas you want to give a light sanding (120 grit) to. Once sanded, then wash again with that soft deck brush to remove any dust from grooves or pores.

6. After a good couple of days in the hot sun, you can apply the sealer.
Use one of the empty (washed and dried) cleaner bottles - fill with sealer. Also, a small shallow tray, with a small cutting in applicator pad (we get them here not much bigger than a postage stamp - better than a brush, as the stuff is thinner than water, and brush bristles flick it if you are not super careful).

7. Do all your cutting in with the tray and applicator pad, then with the squirt bottle, just squirt it on, and spread over with a regular size decking oil applicator pad. It is very, very quick this way - the cutting in takes at least as long as doing all the rest.

8. Let dry at least overnight, but preferably a full day, then give another coat. That should do you till the end of the season, then just wash down, let dry well, and give a final single coat. We are finding now after the first couple of years, that we can just about get away with skipping a season, but remember that we only manage to cruise for up the three months, and for the rest of the time, our boat is under a full cover.

As a note, our transom step gets a pretty hard life, with being wet whenever we sail, plus on and off for swimming, plus the cover does not protect it as well as the rest of the boat. After four years, I am thinking we may next year, strip it down again with the cleaner, and start again. for the rest of the boat, I think we have another several years before we will consider that - probably when we run out of Semco and think about changing to the lighter 'Cleartone' which won't colour up the black caulking as much.

I hope all that helps Ronnie - how about posting some progress photos so we can all follow.

David

[SailRedemption]

Originally Posted by David B

Hello Ronnie,

We - especially because we had to look for it in the Med and have it delivered to our boat, ordered more than we needed, so we still have a fair bit left over but will use it eventually. From memory (it was back in 2013), we used two cleaning kits, but then the teak was only a year old then, so not too much of an issue to clean. If you want to be safe, then I suggest ordering three cleaning kits.
As for the actual sealer, for the first time, the teak will be thirsty. Again, as I recall, we used the equivalent of 6 small tins for the initial two coats. I suggest you order a gallon tin, then at least another 4 smaller tins (as I suspect with you, I don't like tins hanging around - especially large half empty ones).

If it is easy for you to obtain Semco over where you are then that is probably enough, but for us, we have an extra few of the smaller tins stowed for annual re-coating, and frankly, tucked away in a plastic bin they don't take up much room, and it is good to have them ready when we are.

As to application, from our experience, I offer the following:
1. I suggest you do this at the end of the day, so that there is no issue with your decks drying - we did ours in the evening, and finished under floodlights.
Check this, but from memory, the instructions are to wet the deck first. Squirt the cleaner on, starting at the bow, and 'massage into the teak using a very soft deck brush such as a Swobbit'. Just leave for a few minutes at a time, then rinse down with fresh water. It is aggressive (and they say so on the label). You will find the softer parts of the wood turn to pulp and wash away to SOME extent. So in case that concerns you, where we had totally flat and smooth decks as out of the factory, when finished we had SLIGHT tramlining on SOME areas of timber (others where the timber was tighter grained, there was no effect). So at the worst, you will end up with clean decks that look no more tramlined than decks that have been exposed to a few years of weathering.

2. Once you have done all of the deck, check that you are happy it is totally clean, and if not, re-do the yet-to-be-perfect areas. Then rinse down very, very well.

3. Now for the magic. Once the decks have drained properly, so that they are wet, but not shiny wet, and no pooling (just brush excess water down and over the side), in the same way, squirt on the neutraliser. Immediate 'Wow'! with the colour restoration. Squirt and slosh the neutraliser all over, then before it dries, wash down very well again (ideally do the whole deck so you are not wetting too much, the deck yet to be treated with neutraliser).

4. The second 'Wow' is the next morning when you see your dry deck. Ours looked like it had just come out of the factory.

5. Once dry, see if there are any areas you want to give a light sanding (120 grit) to. Once sanded, then wash again with that soft deck brush to remove any dust from grooves or pores.

6. After a good couple of days in the hot sun, you can apply the sealer.
Use one of the empty (washed and dried) cleaner bottles - fill with sealer. Also, a small shallow tray, with a small cutting in applicator pad (we get them here not much bigger than a postage stamp - better than a brush, as the stuff is thinner than water, and brush bristles flick it if you are not super careful).

7. Do all your cutting in with the tray and applicator pad, then with the squirt bottle, just squirt it on, and spread over with a regular size decking oil applicator pad. It is very, very quick this way - the cutting in takes at least as long as doing all the rest.

8. Let dry at least overnight, but preferably a full day, then give another coat. That should do you till the end of the season, then just wash down, let dry well, and give a final single coat. We are finding now after the first couple of years, that we can just about get away with skipping a season, but remember that we only manage to cruise for up the three months, and for the rest of the time, our boat is under a full cover.

As a note, our transom step gets a pretty hard life, with being wet whenever we sail, plus on and off for swimming, plus the cover does not protect it as well as the rest of the boat. After four years, I am thinking we may next year, strip it down again with the cleaner, and start again. for the rest of the boat, I think we have another several years before we will consider that - probably when we run out of Semco and think about changing to the lighter 'Cleartone' which won't colour up the black caulking as much.

I hope all that helps Ronnie - how about posting some progress photos so we can all follow.

David

David,

Thanks for the awesome tutorial! That helps very much! I think I'll get two cleaner kits because my decks are still pretty fresh from redoing the caulking. I'm going to get the Natural and the Clear.. I'll do the natural first like you said then follow up the clear so it doesn't cover up the black caulking as much. I'll definitely post some pictures as it comes! I am going with the sealer because I don't think my decks will last another redo, at least in some places, so I want to protect them as long as I can. Also, I really like the look of the fresh golden tones in the teak.

One more thing, with the cleaner did you have to tape off or put plastic on your topsides or other painted/gelcoated surfaces? I have new Awlgrip (2015) paint upper and topsides and just don't want to jack up the finish. Did you have any issues? I was thinking just wet the painted surfaces well first so whatever hits it won't be as strong and may roll off.

Ronnie

[David B]

Sounds good Ronnie, and glad to be of help.

Yes, that is precisely why we decided to seal our teak as soon as possible after new. Whether you like grey or 'fresh' (as we do) teak is personal choice, but when it's grey, it is exposed, and exposed means wear, and wear means money.

The cleaner has no effect on gelcoat, and if your topsides have been done with two-component paint, then I cannot see it would have any effect on that in the short time you are using it. From what I understand, the cleaner is based on sodium hydroxide (so yes, caustic soda or the old paint stripper), but for two-component paint, I don't think it has any effect. I suggest you try a little discrete area first and keep your eye on it for colour change and softening of your Awlgrip, but I would be very surprised.

I just literally wet the decks down, squirted the cleaner on, quickly spread it around with the soft deck brush, let it work for a minute or two, then hosed off. You will quickly work out how long you need to leave it for your decks..

I suspect there are more than me waiting for those photos Ronnie, so better get on with it

[sail2]

Thanks HankOnTheWater: you've helped me to reorganize and re-look at the options!
Sail2

[Sailinghermit]

Guys, any estimate on the price for a Seacork deck on a 35 foot?

[bcboomer]

Originally Posted by Sailinghermit

Guys, any estimate on the price for a Seacork deck on a 35 foot?

If you email them with a drawing of your deck they will suggest a layout and list of materials. I think mine came to about $30 CAD/ft. If I do more I'll get some of it in pre-grouted form

[Sailinghermit]

Originally Posted by bcboomer

If you email them with a drawing of your deck they will suggest a layout and list of materials. I think mine came to about $30 CAD/ft. If I do more I'll get some of it in pre-grouted form

At this point I'm just being curious hahahhaha it will be a whole year before I even get my boat, probably a luders 33, if I can find one at that time.

[malbert73]

Originally Posted by Sailinghermit

At this point I'm just being curious hahahhaha it will be a whole year before I even get my boat, probably a luders 33, if I can find one at that time.

I had a luders 33… great boat if slightly prone to hobbyhorse in chop. Hope you find one. And my nonskid was useless so I went the paint/grit route

[Sailinghermit]

What are your thoughts on it? Decent blue water cruiser?

[bcboomer]

My thought is that you should do an appropriate search instead of hijacking this thread.

[Sailinghermit]

Originally Posted by bcboomer

My thought is that you should do an appropriate search instead of hijacking this thread.

Hahahahaha gotcha.