Securing cabin sole and lockers

[Davie J.]

Does anyone have suggestions on how to secure the cabin sole and locker lids? In the event of a knock down, I don't want them flying all over the cabin. Also, any ideas on doing the same thing to the stove would be appreciated.

[UNCIVILIZED]

There are a variety of commercially made latches designed expressly for securing floorboards. And generally they function in much the same way as does a door latch. Some requiring a tool, essentially a square tipped screwdriver, in order to open them, or lock them closed. While others have built in recessed latches, which you flip up & turn 90 deg. in order to unlock the floorboards.

For DIY variants it's common to have one edge of the floorboard tucked securely under a lip on one side, & several turn buttons holding it down on the opposing side. Be they metal, composite, or wood. And many are quite decorative, in addition to being functional. The turn buttons that is.

Some floorboards even utelize mechanisims which cam & lock into place. Either on top of, or underneath of the floorboards.

And of course for areas which don't require frequent access, machine screws or bolts work quite well. Which, you can recess their heads into the tops of the floorboards, assuming the floorboards are sufficiently strong.

Oh, & rotating crossbars work as well. And typically they're made out of relatively thin strips of metal. With notches that lock under the head of a fastener when they're swung into the locked position.


For cabinets most of the above work. As do barrel bolts, or purpose made locking latches, that are available in a number of styles.

[model 10]

Pieces of bungee cord and some little stainless strap eyes etc. screwed to the underside.

[Davie J.]

Thanks Guy and Uncivilized. I guess I could switch the order and say "Thanks Uncivilized Guy", but .............

[Steadman Uhlich]

Originally Posted by Davie J.

Does anyone have suggestions on how to secure the cabin sole and locker lids? In the event of a knock down, I don't want them flying all over the cabin. Also, any ideas on doing the same thing to the stove would be appreciated.

Many items for marine latches.

Plastic Slam Latches used on boats

https://www.ebay.com/i/222277971256?...D1225687093263

Stainless locking slam latches
2X Boat Stainless Steel Pull Hatch Latch Locker Key For Marine Yacht Furniture | eBay

[wrwakefield]

Originally Posted by Davie J.

Does anyone have suggestions on how to secure the cabin sole and locker lids? In the event of a knock down, I don't want them flying all over the cabin. Also, any ideas on doing the same thing to the stove would be appreciated.

Davie,

I just went through the same exercise for the removable sole boards on our boat.

Because many do not lend themselves to being attached on one side [e.g., hinges or tabs mounted to the underside of the sole board that fit under/ into the support stringers...] I went with the PYI Floor Anchors. [PYI also makes a dripless prop shaft coupling many of us have onboard...]

I just ordered them yesterday [and the install kit] so cannot give a first hand account of installation and use yet, but I think this was the best choice for us.

One can also install stainless steel threaded inserts in the stringers and use a bolt through the sole board with an o-ring on the bottom side to retain the bolt. But the PYI hardware is a bit more elegant, takes a much higher load, and is very quick when access is required...

At first glance they seem expensive, but once you factor in strength, ease of installation and use, it became an easy decision for me.

Regarding cabinet latches, all our cabinets have the finger breaker holes with internal latches- which I despise... But, I haven't yet found the lazy [i.e., no rework required on the doors...] replacement yet... Several latch designs are made to fit into holes and work well, but I haven't found the precise fitting hardware yet... I may have to rework all the doors afterall...

Best wishes finding what is best for your needs.

Cheers! Bill

[Cheechako]

I like the idea of using SS hex head cap screws for floorboard latching. Having used the "ring pull" latches you purchase in various varieties I can say they do not install easily and you have to carve up your boards a lot. I've toyed with this simple approach before but never actually did it. Easy to bore round holes etc. Anyone make something simple like this?

[toddster8]

The problem with that is you need a tool to open the compartment, and you might need to get in there quickly. Or drop the tool overboard.

Come to think of it, I never did find the deck-plate tool yesterday. Whatever it was I wanted out of that locker must not have been very important...

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by toddster8

The problem with that is you need a tool to open the compartment, and you might need to get in there quickly. Or drop the tool overboard.

Come to think of it, I never did find the deck-plate tool yesterday. Whatever it was I wanted out of that locker must not have been very important...

Yeah, good point.... although allen wrenches can be had a "dime a dozen" and a slot head screwdriver will work in a pinch.

[sailcrazy]

I installed 6 of the PYI anchors on the seatpan over my battery box about 10 years ago. They have worked perfectly for me....easy to open, but securely lock the seatpan down. But you do need the special tool to install them, and a flat screwdriver to open/close them.

[slowpoker]

A bungee cord attached to the underside of the board with a hook to unfasten there while
the other end of the bungee, under tension, is attached to a stringer under the floor. I have also used a piece of cord instead, but needs to be just long enough to be able to move the floor board or icebox cover, stove lid or cutting board just far enough to one side to be out of your way but will prevent it from going flying too far across the cabin.

[Steve Bean]

I just got back from a bareboat charter in the Caribbean, on a Moorings 39-foot catamaran that had a winch-handle socket in the deck plate for the holding tank pumpout. Seems like a good idea; doesn't everybody have a winch handle or two on board? The other deck plates were the traditional kind with two small holes. Maybe use the same socket for floorboard turn buttons?

[Pelagic]

Just happened to be lifting all my interior floorboards today for safety inspections before reloading all the supplies taken off for refit.
Noticed that all of them were cut so that one end is tucked under a trim piece.
The other end with the ring pull needs to be lifted up to just clear floor then you pull clear of trim.
And All hatches fit tight!

Don't know if that was on purpose or if they would still fall out easily on a roll, but I don't really worry about it.....

[Terra Nova]

A loosely fitted blind dowel in one end and a lift-ring catch in the other.

[UNCIVILIZED]

Originally Posted by wrwakefield

Davie,

I just went through the same exercise for the removable sole boards on our boat.

Because many do not lend themselves to being attached on one side [e.g., hinges or tabs mounted to the underside of the sole board that fit under/ into the support stringers...] I went with the PYI Floor Anchors. [PYI also makes a dripless prop shaft coupling many of us have onboard...]

I just ordered them yesterday [and the install kit] so cannot give a first hand account of installation and use yet, but I think this was the best choice for us.

One can also install stainless steel threaded inserts in the stringers and use a bolt through the sole board with an o-ring on the bottom side to retain the bolt. But the PYI hardware is a bit more elegant, takes a much higher load, and is very quick when access is required...

At first glance they seem expensive, but once you factor in strength, ease of installation and use, it became an easy decision for me.

Regarding cabinet latches, all our cabinets have the finger breaker holes with internal latches- which I despise... But, I haven't yet found the lazy [i.e., no rework required on the doors...] replacement yet... Several latch designs are made to fit into holes and work well, but I haven't found the precise fitting hardware yet... I may have to rework all the doors afterall...

Best wishes finding what is best for your needs.

Cheers! Bill

One could always drill the hole for the bolt to be large enough to accomodate a nut, & then epoxy bond the nut in place. You'd need to have a threaded stud in place in the nut when doing this, but it's not complicated. And holding power goes up by severa orders of magnitude.

BTW, thanks for the PYI link!