Sea Hawk Islands 44 Plus three weeks after application

[rudykruger]

Our boat, a Lagoon 420, was hauled at Bradford Marine in Freeport, Bahamas during December 2019 for bottom paint and other work.

The Islands 44 Plus bottom paint application was a saga. Constant blisters - mainly on the outer starboard hull and keel and to a lesser extent on the port hull - developed in the paint, right up to the day of splashing the boat 2 weeks after painting started. Bradford re-coated the blistered areas several times, sometimes with sanding and a barrier coat, sometimes with sanding only, and sometimes without either sanding or barrier coat. Usually the re-coated areas were done in neat squares as it was rolled on in patches of varying sizes...

So, boat prep probably sub par.

This is the condition of the bottom ~3 weeks after application. During that time the boat was at a slip facing north, with about equal daily sun on the port vs starboard sides.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OKGSD_uC9Ugt=30s

Thoughts, comments? Where is this going?

I am in contact with the manufacturer about this as well.

[coopec43]

Sea Hawk Islands 44 is the name of a paint!!


Did you see the thread above on the same paint?


https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=...ZbECKUQ4dUDCAs

[rudykruger]

Originally Posted by coopec43

Sea Hawk Islands 44 is the name of a paint!!


Did you see the thread above on the same paint?

It is, and I did. Does not explain the "square forests" in patches on the hull.

[Woodland Hills]

The square forests are probably from different batches of paint. SeaHawk seems to have serious problems with making their products consistent from batch to batch or even within the same batch.

[Tingum]

I’m voting for bad prep, were you present when they did the work?

[Olaf theSnowman]

It seems that the prep was really bad.



I had Sea Hawk 4 for more than 2 years on my AMEL Santorin. It works very well and hadn't got any issues with it.



Here the website from International with their knowledge base resp. expert advices, also with support articles of common problems > blistering, bubbling, cratering, dimpling etc.). Very helpful and informative for all around painting (primer, anti fouling etc.). Here the link especially for US:



https://interlux.com/en/us/support


Solve common problems > probalby you will know what went bad while prep:

https://interlux.com/en/us/support/boat-paint-defects





Hope that will help a little

Olaf

[rudykruger]

Mostly present. Bad prep does not explain the areas where antifoul is clearly not working, apart from poor mixing or no mixing of the paint.

Re: the bad prep, here's an excellent response from another forum:

A sad sight, it is obviously not working as "anti" fouling.

Looks like a strip and start again. Been there done that got the t shirt. Wet sanding back to gel-coat is a horrible experience.

What was the age of the paint?
Did you personally inspect the paint when the tins were opened?
Were they stirred correctly?
Did they adhere to the timings between coats? Too soon blisters resulting from solvents in the first coats not escaping. Too long surface too shinny and not re- abraded.

Metal based AF paints copper and tin separate out when left standing. If it is not stirred, using powered mixer and or the lid has been left off the solvents will evaporate leaving a viscous liquid with metal content at the bottom. It is very hard and time consuming to mix in this state. Less knowledgeable folk, professionals included will then thin the paint, but still leave the active metal ingredient undisturbed at the bottom of the tin. During the painting process it is imperative to keep the paint properly stirred even in the tray.

Hard AF paints are still expected to erode in order for the active ingredient to be released adding thinner may interfere with this process meaning once the initial active ingredient is washed off no new will be exposed. Thinned paint will also take longer to go green so adding additional coats too soon will trap un-evaporated solvent - blisters! Use of an incompatible thinner, contamination or poor mixing would also explain the the blistering and or poor adhesion.

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by rudykruger

Hard AF paints are still expected to erode in order for the active ingredient to be released... once the initial active ingredient is washed off no new will be exposed. [/I]

100% not true. The author of this quote has some serious gaps in his/her knowledge of how anti fouling paints work.

[rudykruger]

Originally Posted by fstbttms

100% not true. The author of this quote has some serious gaps in his/her knowledge of how anti fouling paints work.

He was referring to improperly thinned paint. That reasoned and thoughtful reply still makes a lot more sense than any of your unpleasant, cherry-picked, sanctimonious chest beating.

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by rudykruger

He was referring to improperly thinned paint. That reasoned and thoughtful reply still makes a lot more sense than any of your unpleasant, cherry-picked, sanctimonious chest beating.

I don't care to what he was referring. The statement is incorrect. Hard anti fouling paints do not work by "eroding." They release their biocide when water penetrates the surface of the paint, allowing the copper (or tin or whatever) to leach out. Unless your author's point was that thinning the paint causes this process to stop (which it certainly wasn't), he is wrong. I'm sorry if my pointing that out gets your panties in a bunch.