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Old 18-11-2010, 15:10   #16
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Yes, I could draw you a new blade, but it wouldn't contain any plywood. Inert or relatively so materials are best for appendages. Plywood is an exceptionally poor choice, not because of rot, but because of "rolling shear" of the wood fibers, within the panel, which can cause sudden and usually catastrophic panel failure.

My data base will likely have the construction details of your yacht, including "production run" changes, which this could easily be and would be a common type of model run change.

Yes, there are several "issues" with the current rudder blade, all attrubuting to poor preformance, excessive resistance, vibration, noise, cavitation, excessive shaft strain, etc.

Contact me by email (click on my name) with the make, model and year of your boat and the hull number, which should be carved into one of the major structural elements, such as a bulkhead, deck beam, keel, etc. I ask because there seems to be some confusion (on my part) of the actual boat (Hinterhoeller-28 or HR-28) and the year built, as my record show 1967 as the first year of production. Don't panic, it's not uncommon for boats to be mis-labeled on a title or called the wrong thing on a registration. Before HIN's were in wide spread use this was a very common issue. We'll figure out what she is too.
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Old 19-11-2010, 12:51   #17
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I will contact you asap...my boat is in ontario I am in montreal.
as far as I know hinterhoeler-28 have been produced in 1964 1965 1966 then the first HR-28 was produced in 1967...this boat hade no skeg but retained the same deck as previous years...in 1968 the deck was raised and new aft protlights instaled...HR-28 are easy to spot because they have 2 seperate port lights up front H-28 has only one long portlight.

www.petiedelire.com is a 1965 model with a skeg and no bilge just like mine
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Old 19-11-2010, 13:40   #18
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Originally Posted by jobi View Post
ok this same rudder has sailed 17,000 miles across the atlantic befor bending on an other similar boat. The owner has took the skeg off and replaced the rudder with a balanced rudder.

my concern with mine is should I modify it now and be done with it?

I was going to lay fiberglass all over the skeg especialy where it meets the hull for a stronger bond. also wanted to install a larger shaft.

How would you guys go about it??
Why did you transfer it to another similar boat.....
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Old 19-11-2010, 14:10   #19
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hahaha sorry my english is terrible I know...I meant to say the same model rudder, not the exact same rudder.

however after more investigation I fund out the rudder in question was not original.
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Old 19-11-2010, 15:27   #20
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Sorry Jobi... it was an 'I cant resist moment' for me....
But seriously... I don't think you should worry about your rudder.... it looks just fine the way it is.
Check out the Owners Forum for your make of boat first... is it a common fault... are there specific circumstances that cause the failure....
Do not go into a knee jerk reaction because of something thats happened to ONE boat....
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Old 19-11-2010, 21:55   #21
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I'm not sure what rudder you're looking at Boatman, but I see several issues just from the pictures provided. My data base suggests the model was modified to address rudder (and other) related issues and I have notes about surveys with comments on the skeg/rudder assembly, on this vintage yacht.
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Old 19-11-2010, 22:14   #22
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What the photo dont show is the gap between both planks...I need to take the outter end off and epoxy glue it the the first plank......

You may want to re-consider filling the gaps. My rudder (and many other Alberg designs of similar vintage) will develop 'gaps' when on the hard.. but the gaps close once she is splashed because the wood swells like it might in the planks of a wooden boat.

You can use a flexible sealant between them if you like, but if you caulk it with something inflexible (that can not compress) it will likely damage the straps / hardware when it is splashed and swells.
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