Rudder Post Assembly

[Extemporaneous]

Does anyone know of any pictures or schematics showing what and how all the pieces do and fit together on a typical skeg rudder with a steering wheel?
If you could post them I'd appreciate it.

Thanks,
Extemp.

[SkiprJohn]

Aloha Extemp,
There is no "typical" steering system. If you can get hold of a copy of Nigel Calders, Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual there is a whole chapter dedicated to Steering Systems. There are many different systems so it would be hard to guess which kind you might be interested in.
Kind regards,
JohnL

[Extemporaneous]

Originally Posted by SkiprJohn

Aloha Extemp,
There is no "typical" steering system. If you can get hold of a copy of Nigel Calders, Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual there is a whole chapter dedicated to Steering Systems. There are many different systems so it would be hard to guess which kind you might be interested in.
Kind regards,
JohnL

Thanks John,
I think I'm getting that book for Christmas and so will have a look.
When I bought my boat, it had a slightly elevated moisture level (relative) in the rudder and I also want to take it apart just to check it and see how it goes together. Boat's on the hard now and placed with the rudder over the edge of the wall so I can drop the rudder post. Thought I'd try to get some insights so I don't drop stuff I shouldn't.

Regards,
Extemp.

[Evan]

My suggestion - lots of rudders are full of water. Drill about a 3/8" hole at the bottom of the rudder. If a stream of water pours out, there is a good chance your rudder is wet inside. If no water, plug the hole with thickened epoxy. You can't casually disassemble a rudder.

[Stillraining]

Lost of info on the web just takes a little search time ...How detailed do you want to get.

This site might have your boats specks and diagrams available for purchase.

http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/w...sion/index.php

[GordMay]

Most Corbin 39s were “custom finished”, so you may not find your steering system to be entirely “typical”.

Foss Foam has some info' on Rudder Construction:
NewRudders.com » Rudder Construction

Inspecting the Aging Sailboat ~ By Don Casey
(Rudders, page 22)
Inspecting the Aging Sailboat - Google Book Search

Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts ~ By John Rousmaniere
(Steering Control, page 83 & Rudders, page 92)
Desirable and Undesirable ... - Google Book Search
and:
Desirable and Undesirable ... - Google Book Search

Corbin 39 Brochure:
http://www.pbase.com/lesterhel/the_o...in_39_brochure

Corbin 39 Sailboat Owners Group
www.corbin39.com

[SkiprJohn]

Ok, now I get it. If your rudder is like the one in the photo it shouldn't be too hard. Once the shoe is taken off at the bottom and the head is unbolted from the top of the rudder shaft it should just slip down. There may or may not be bearings in the rudder tube. Just keep an eye on them to make certain they don't get lost.
Once you have the shoe removed, support the rudder from the bottom until you are ready to slip the rudder post down. It might be pretty heavy and you don't want to bend the rudder post so be cautious.
Kind regards,
JohnL

[rjrendemd]

On a skeg mounted rudder how is the skeg reinforced to absorb the stress induced by the rudder. Are the pintles attached to a reinforced cap made of metal at the rear of the skeg or are they bolted to the lead ballast in the keel?

[Extemporaneous]

Originally Posted by rjrendemd

On a skeg mounted rudder how is the skeg reinforced to absorb the stress induced by the rudder. Are the pintles attached to a reinforced cap made of metal at the rear of the skeg or are they bolted to the lead ballast in the keel?

It is as the pic that Gord posted. What is inside, I don't know.
I don't think the rudder is in that bad of shape and so how far I go with this will depend on getting lots of other stuff done first. I'll let you know when and if. I'll start incrementally and see what I find. I figure if I know how it goes together I may understand its vulnerabilities.

Thanks to ALL for the replies.

[Cheechako]

The shoe on the bottom is often cast bronze. It is usually just attached to the fibreglass skeg with bolts, but possibly resin etc too.. The skeg is likely hollow or may be filled with fiberglassing debris the yard guys push in there when they are building the boat. If water in your rudder is your worry, drill the hole to find out. You dont need to remove that rudder.... it's a BIG job and fraught with possible problems. If you have water in your rudder, here's what I did and it's just fine to do with the rudder still in place. Drill a small hole in the side of your rudder just to make sure it is Hollow! Cut out one whole side of the rudder.... may 2"-3" in from the edge. Pull that rectangular panel off and SAVE IT. Clean out the rudder, inspect how the metal work looks. (likely SS flat bars welded to the shaft) let it dry out good. Have the metal work reinforced or rewelded as necessary.Grind the panel you took out to a tapered feather edge around the periphery, maybe 3" taper or so. Grind the rudder mating surface similar. Lay up the rudder with glass cloth and Epoxy resin. Grind to fair. Drill about a .5-.75 hole in the top of the rudder. Fill the rudder with epoxy micro baloons, or any other resin you can afford. I used a product called "Ruddercast" which was developed for powerboats using no fibreglass shell at all! It was used on a Military project and left over.