Rudder Inspection w/ Pics

[Freerider]

After reading theses posts I came home after work and checked the rudder again. The plate that is bent in the picture is actually plastic and is bent when the rudder is turned completely to port/strbd. I also found water pooled at the top of the rudder shaft below the cockpit floor, im guessing this is from when my exhaust hose corroded through and leaked the cooling water under there.

I'm wondering now if the streaks in the picture are caused by this pooled water that runs down the shaft and leaks at the lower attachment.

[CaptainBW]

Originally Posted by Northeaster

CaptainBW - Just to clarify, I was not advocating the use of 5200 instead of epoxy or other watertight coatings on the rudder. I am suggesting that in addition to several coats of some type of epoxy or other watertight coating, I believe that a wide seal of 5200 will add protection against water coming in where there is some minor flex between the rudder skin / glass and the rudder post.

I do not believe that a hard drying watertight layer provides enough of a seal around the rudder post entry point as there will be some flex here, and the hard seal will be broken over time. A thin seal of 5200, spread over an inch or two of the rudder post and an inch or two of the top of the rudder, where they meet should provide additional protection against water getting in there. I would put this on top of (after) the other watertight layers are put on.

Northeaster...yes I agree. I misunderstood your earlier post.

[juanacruz]

Just wondering if the foam used in the rudder is closed cell , can I just relaminate with epoxy or do I need a barrier coat of regular resin before fairing with epoxy? I know on my surfboard repairs epoxy will bubble and eat away PVC foam I guess i can try a sample. But the foam seems water proof. And the metal frame where I can see it looks fresh and shiny.

[juanacruz]

The 5200 sounds like a good idea, thanks

[Northeaster]

Someone else may be able to comment on the proper foam, to use inside a rudder. I rebuilt mine while still on the boat, and wanted something I could pour into the voids, that would resist water, if any gets in.
I know you can get the mixable 2 part foam, and that may be the best route, if you need to pour it.
What I did (time will tell how well it works) was to mix granual foam (closed cell, I believe) with epoxy, which bascially made a melted foam type material, that hardened once poured. Since it is completely saturated with epoxy, I figure it should be water resistant.

Anyway, I welded on about 4 extra stainless tangs to the rudder post and existing tangs / framework, then welded a bunch of gussets and cross-braces, so even if some water gets in, there is alot of welds that would need to be eaten away, before anything would give. (I used stainless welding rods, of course).
Then used epoxy and cloth / mat layers to put back together, and a few coats of clear epoxy as a water barrier. (Perhaps some other type of barrier coat would be superior).

Make sure you use different colors for barrier coats, bottom paint, etc, so you can see how far you sand down in the future.

[Freerider]

So after much delay I finally cracked open my rudder today, and I'm really glad that I did.

In this picture you can see the rust stains along the rudder stock that originate from 2 of the welds (the black marks are the corroded welds) where the horizontal SS pieces are attached to the rudder stock. I flipped the cut out section over and placed it along side for the picture, and the rust stains are evident on it swell.

So for anyone contemplating the inspection of a 30 year old rudder, my advice is to dive right in. The piece of mind will be worth it, and in my case it was needed.

I have lots more digging to do so i can get some fresh welds on there, I will post some better photos later once the repair is finished.

[Freerider]

Here's a few more, it looks like the internal rods aren't SS even though he rudder stock is SS. Is this normal?

I'm going to clean up the welds and then have them re-welded.

[rikasso]

I know this is an older post but I just bought a Hughes 31 , and it looks like I might have the same problem.
If you finished the repair and would not mind. Would post and update.

[Freerider]

I ended up getting the welds cleaned up and re-done. The fabricator also welded an additional SS rod parallel but spaced 2 inches from the rudder post, tying the entire frame all together. I doubt this was necessary but it'll give the internal frame much more strength.

I still haven't re-installed the rudder yet, because I'm still working on getting the deck repainted and all the deck hardware re-bedded. I plan on extending the rudder post up through the cockpit floor and installing a tiller to re-place the wheel steering.

Is your Hughes 31 tiller or wheel steered?

[rikasso]

Thanks for the reply.
My boat is wheel steered. Might I ask why you want to go with a tiller? Just got it home yesterday the hull is in amazing condition. The deck as a few spot's that are soft it needs some woodwork on the inside but nothing major. I'm a cabinet maker by trade so no worries there.
The sails are bagged but there cheap enough. I it for an amazing price.

[Freerider]

Basically just a personal choice with the tiller, i just like how it feels. On other boats i've sailed with tiller, i really liked how i could hide behind the dodger and access all the winches while steering.

The fact that Fatty Goodlander sailed his Hughes 38 around the world twice with tiller steering gave me some confidence that it'll work on my 35.

[rikasso]

That was fast. Thanks. Those are all good reasons. I like a tiller if I'm racing a boat, and a wheel if I'm just out with friends if they want to try sailing the boat left is left , and so on with a wheel, and you can put auto pilot on a little cheaper or should I say you get away with a smaller unit on a wheel. Do you have a website where you are posting your progress with the boat?

Thanks again

[Freerider]

Our website isn't built yet, and likely won't get launched until we move aboard and start our adventure south. The plan is to launch in September and make our way to the Bahamas, then go from there.

The amount of work i have left is actually scary, but I'm at it full time now and I'm confident i can get it done.

We'll likely be launching in Kingston, as of now we're on the hard in Pontiac Quebec, Ottawa Valley region.

[rikasso]

Nice. I go up to Ottawa every Tuesday. Maybe I could drop by at some point if that would ok. I'm actually a fulltime metal sculptor down here in K-Town.

Thanks again, and good luck
www.rikasso.com

[Freerider]

Checked out your site, very cool.

Ya anytime you're around and want to check it out, let me know. She's a disaster at the moment, but she's starting to get put back together.