Respirator for grinding fiberglass

[Saltyhog]

Originally Posted by minaret

When you order your 7800 (good call it is the best despite the decreased field of view) also order a box of the mylar peelies if you can. They will keep it looking brand new. I'm kinda anal about a scratch-free clear faceplate because I do high-end work and I need to see if I'm gonna make it perfect. The mylar works great. All the other guys in the shop have thrashed fullfaces but mine always looks brand new. I wash it daily, taking out all flapper valves each time. This wears the flappers out quicker but they are super cheap (order some of them too) and dirty valves are the most common cause of fogging and leakage outside of facial hair. I pop out the whole valve body and wash it in hot soapy water. Some of the guys fullfaces smell like someone pissed in them and are just scary nasty after a lot of daily use without proper maintenance. I have to crack the whip sometimes. When the Boss needs a fullface for a quick looksee he always steals mine, and then I get a new one! Because I don't share, that's like sharing someones underwear to me...
Size is really important. The large tends to be pretty big, most use a medium for proper fit. Though all the amateurs buy larges without a hood test. If it's too small it will be really uncomfortable though. Too big and you'll get a headache overstrapping it trying to acheive a proper seal. It really depends on how big your head/face is. Some really small guys still have a big head. Trial and error is the only way. Go to a local fire safety supply. You will find they do fit tests for cheap or free. If you can't find a local supplier for the 7800, fit test any 3M respirator and stick with that size when you order. Good luck and happy grinding!

Minaret, A big thankyou for the recommendation on the 7800. I've been using it for the past 5-6 weekends and it's made a big difference in my misery level. I won't say I enjoy grinding, but the thought of it no longer brings dread to the pit of my stomach. Now I just suit up, don the mask, and off I go. You were right, if the seal is good, I have no fogging. I find my work is better because I'm not in such a hurry to "get the Hades out of there". New engine bearers are coming along nicely!

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Saltyhog

Minaret, A big thankyou for the recommendation on the 7800. I've been using it for the past 5-6 weekends and it's made a big difference in my misery level. I won't say I enjoy grinding, but the thought of it no longer brings dread to the pit of my stomach. Now I just suit up, don the mask, and off I go. You were right, if the seal is good, I have no fogging. I find my work is better because I'm not in such a hurry to "get the Hades out of there". New engine bearers are coming along nicely!

Glad it worked out for you! Now just grind for a couple of years and you'll perfect your tape seals as well. I usually wear Xtra Tuffs while grinding (any rubber boot with a high top will do), because then you can high-water your Tyveks and duct tape them to your rubber boots. This keeps them from ripping when you bend over. I also wear a 3XL or evn a 4XL because whoever tailors Tyveks has a strange idea of human anatomy. It makes me look like the Michelin Man but my tape seals stay on everywhere because the sleeves and pant legs are not too short, and I dont rip out the crotch or ass like everyone else does as soon as they bend over once or twice. I also duct tape all the way around the hood onto the fullface's rubber seal, making sure to get the zipper under the neck tape so it doesn't slip down, duct tape the first two layers of rubber glove cuff, and then throw a third over the top. You get tired of being itchy eventually, I even got my wife to start washing my clothes with the rest of the families clothes again, after years of refusing to do that. Your itchy fiberglass ridden work clothes only need to be washed with her underwear once or twice for this to happen...

[SkiprJohn]

Minaret,
Thanks a great deal for the safety tips and information about this really important subject.
You've really helped me on this one.
kind regards,

[minaret]

Originally Posted by SkiprJohn

Minaret,
Thanks a great deal for the safety tips and information about this really important subject.
You've really helped me on this one.
kind regards,

Anytime; as our shop safety officer I am always pleased if I can help people to work safer. Cancer sucks, stay safe!

[roverhi]

FWIW, understand the liver eating gases in two part polyurethanes pass through filters. Only a piped in air system is supposed to be absolutely safe. Having said that, painting out in the open or a large shed with ventilation seems to be enough protection. There are a couple of painters here who are going into their '70s and have been applying LPU paint since it's introduction and have used only good respirator masks. Painting is all open air around here. Still wouldn't go around sniffing the uncured paint.

Doesn't seem to take much to get Epoxy sensitized. Laminated several layers of epoxy/glass in the lazarette. Tore my gloves and ended up with epoxy in my hair, and other places because of the cramped quarters. Acetone bath anyone?? All the skin on my right hand and forearm began to peel off a week later. Got to be very careful with that stuff.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by roverhi

FWIW, understand the liver eating gases in two part polyurethanes pass through filters. Only a piped in air system is supposed to be absolutely safe. Having said that, painting out in the open or a large shed with ventilation seems to be enough protection. There are a couple of painters here who are going into their '70s and have been applying LPU paint since it's introduction and have used only good respirator masks. Painting is all open air around here. Still wouldn't go around sniffing the uncured paint.

One of the guys I came up with used a cigarette as his only form of filter while spraying LPU for many years. We all mocked him and said he would die, he's still going strong in his 60's. Some people are hard to kill, but I fear I may not be one of them.
The bit about LPU not being safe for application with a regular cartridge respirator is sort of true-it's really more of a CYA measure than anything. If you read all the relevant MSDS and Guidance Notes you will find that they say it's fine for the spray hand to use a cartridge respirator IF adequate ventilation is provided to keep VOC PPM's below Threshold Limit Values. This requires monitoring equipment no one I know uses, thereby allowing them to CYA quite well. I don't know a single painter who sprays with a hood, because the likelihood of getting your hood in the wet paint is very high. I don't even spray with a fullface (unless I'm in an enclosed space), though you are supposed to because your eyes are very good at absorbing toxins, because I can't see well enough to get a perfect flow coat every time in anything but my bare eyes. The manufacterers know perfectly well how everyone out there is applying this stuff and write their Guidance Notes very carefully to make it unlikely that anyone will fully comply with them. This is industry standard. Note that the Guidance Notes for Awlgrip REQUIRE the spray hand to wear forced air, but the application guide does not. Classic. Read carefully some of the safety requirements, such as all crew members wearing a 60% cotton white overall with a Tyvek on top. That sort of very specific wording is ammo for the legal department down the line.

http://www.awlgrip.com/HealthAndSafe...inal%20Doc.pdf

Application Equipment

[osirissail]

I have used the full face respirator for all fiberglass grinding and sawing, etc. inside the boat for years. It makes a world of difference when you do not get the micro-fibers of fiberglass in your eyes and face skin.
Here is the one I use from WW Grainger. It is basically the same as the one in Post #10 except it comes with the organic canisters:
Respirator, Full Face - Reusable Respirators - Respiratory - 3A183 : Grainger Industrial Supply

[Saltyhog]

I'm guessing that the dangers of LPU are greatly lessened when rolling/tipping? We are going to paint the cockpit floor with Perfection and I was planning on using the full face with organic carts. Good enough?

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Saltyhog

I'm guessing that the dangers of LPU are greatly lessened when rolling/tipping? We are going to paint the cockpit floor with Perfection and I was planning on using the full face with organic carts. Good enough?

Too good. Why go to the full face if you're not spraying? Just use a good quality half mask with organic vapor carts and glove up well. I also like to use the extra long good quality spray socks a lot, they keep your head covered and your hair out of the paint (if you have any). A fullface will unnecessarily restrict/distort your vision and make you uncomfortable and in a rush when you don't need to be, IMHO. You want to stay cool and calm when rolling/tipping. Also either fullface or half mask can occasionally collect sweat and drip, especially in hot weather. Stop to clean it occasionally or you will get a sweat drip right in the middle of your fresh paint.

[DSDman]

I hate to grind, I've been doing a good bit of it lately. Just bought the mask from harbor freight, no eye protection. If/when I start doing the foredecks I will invest in better equipment, yes I'm tired of being itchy! Did I mention I hate to grind!

[minaret]

Originally Posted by roverhi

Doesn't seem to take much to get Epoxy sensitized. Laminated several layers of epoxy/glass in the lazarette. Tore my gloves and ended up with epoxy in my hair, and other places because of the cramped quarters. Acetone bath anyone?? All the skin on my right hand and forearm began to peel off a week later. Got to be very careful with that stuff.

I have been skin sensitized for years. This is one good reason to learn to double or triple glove always. And ALWAYS wear a respirator when working with epoxy, it is much more toxic than poly resin, although it misleadingly does not smell as bad. You don't want respiratory sensitization, I have known people who can't be withtin 100 yards of a wet lam without breaking out in hives all over. If you're a laminator this is a career ender, I've seen it happen several times now, very sad. Whatever you do, if you get epoxy on your skin, DO NOT try to remove it with acetone. This is the worst thing you can do, because essentially all you are doing is thinning the epoxy down dramatically to create penetrating epoxy sealer, which then of course immediately penetrates your skin and enters your system. All that sticky epoxy is not just evaporating with the acetone, it is actually entering your system. This is very bad. Use hot soapy water followed by vinegar. Vinegar cuts amine epoxies very well and is not as nasty as acetone (it's also cheaper). Try to get as much off as possible without resorting to anything which will reduce the resin, then cut it with the vinegar. If you clean yourself with 'tone you will skin sensitize much quicker than otherwise, and of course you are poisoning yourself both with the epoxy and acetone. Vinegar is also good for cleaning epoxy resin off of surfaces which acetone or alchohol might dull or damage.