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Old 02-02-2013, 22:41   #1
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Replacing Through Hulls

We will be reuniting with our boat soon. We are new owners and know very little about sailboats. We own a 37' Tayana. One of the first things we plan to do is have the boat hauled and have the through hulls replaced. I am trying to figure out our budget and schedule as we transition from land based life to water based life. My questions are 1) What is the ballpark cost of a haul out? 2) How long can we anticipate having the boat on the hard to replace the through hulls? 3) What did it cost the last time you had your through hulls replaced? Other variables are as follows, the boat is in the Pacific Northwest and my husband has the skills and tools to complete the task but haven't decided yet if he will do it or if we will hire and have it done.

Thanks in advance. I have learned so much and can't wait to actually join the community rather than living vicariously through the web.
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Old 02-02-2013, 23:05   #2
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Re: Replacing through hulls

We are in the process of doing this with our boat. We have all of them out and new fittings and valves bought and will install them when we return to the boat.

We are following Maine Sail's instruction that can be found here...

Replacing Thru-Hulls and Seacocks Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

I like the ....



... fittings and valves he used and feel they are safer and a better install than what has been common practice in the past.

You just need to call local yards for the haul-out fee and yard fees and if you can work on the boat or not in the yard and likewise if any contractor can if you go that route.

You and your boat are dependent on this install, don't cut corners and good luck,

Sum
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Old 02-02-2013, 23:09   #3
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Re: Replacing through hulls

The haul out cost will vary from yard to yard, some yards will not allow you to perform your own work, you have to use their personnel or vendors. Time on the hard depends on how many through hulls you have to replace and what other problems you run into, believe me there will be other problems involved in the process. It is not a difficult process you need not hire someone to do it unless you just want to. This is always a good time to check the condition of the hoses and hose clamps attached to the through hulls as well as the sea strainers, zincs, prop condition, cutlass bearings, depth sounder transducers and of course bottom paint. It is not something to rush, take your time and get a good look at everything it is a lot easier to adress these things on the hard then have to hire a diver after you go back into the water.
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Old 02-02-2013, 23:29   #4
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Re: Replacing through hulls

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sumner View Post
We are in the process of doing this with our boat. We have all of them out and new fittings and valves bought and will install them when we return to the boat.

We are following Maine Sail's instruction that can be found here...

Replacing Thru-Hulls and Seacocks Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

I like the ....



... fittings and valves he used and feel they are safer and a better install than what has been common practice in the past.

You just need to call local yards for the haul-out fee and yard fees and if you can work on the boat or not in the yard and likewise if any contractor can if you go that route.

You and your boat are dependent on this install, don't cut corners and good luck,

Sum
Very surprised that this kind of fitting is available for a boat that is going to sea. It is in MY oppinion unrelialble and prone to leakage around the flange that is fitted to the hull. It would be better to fit a screw thread through hull type fitting and then sealing with appropiate water tight sealant.

Not wanting to be alarmist or anything, so check with your friends and other skilled persons before you do go ahead.

Good luck with the project.

Peter
e
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Old 02-02-2013, 23:49   #5
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Re: Replacing through hulls

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Originally Posted by rivonia View Post
Very surprised that this kind of fitting is available for a boat that is going to sea. It is in MY oppinion unrelialble and prone to leakage around the flange that is fitted to the hull. It would be better to fit a screw thread through hull type fitting and then sealing with appropiate water tight sealant.

Not wanting to be alarmist or anything, so check with your friends and other skilled persons before you do go ahead.

Good luck with the project.

Peter
e
Did you follow the link and look at the complete install? That is the inside fitting and valve. It has a ....



standard mushroom fitting on the outside. Some people in the past have used the mushroom fitting screwed into a valve. That results with the mushroom fitting having straight threads and the valve having tapered threads (a mix-match of threads). It has been done, but not the best deal.

This....



...fitting has straight threads on the bottom for the mushroom fitting and tapered on the other side for the valve resulting in no mix-match of threads,

Sum
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Old 03-02-2013, 00:09   #6
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Re: Replacing through hulls

Hi,
when I looked at your thread all the other below it did not come up on the screen. I only saw the interior fitting with screw holes.

Sorry for my comment. It would appear to be most satisfactory.

Peter
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Old 03-02-2013, 00:16   #7
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Re: Replacing through hulls

Quote:
Originally Posted by rivonia View Post
Hi,
when I looked at your thread all the other below it did not come up on the screen. I only saw the interior fitting with screw holes.

Sorry for my comment. It would appear to be most satisfactory.

Peter
No problem, my post probably could of been a little clearer,

Sum
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Old 03-02-2013, 00:41   #8
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Re: Replacing through hulls

Although, if the fitting is in danger of being hit by moving stores it would be best to goto the traditional seacock.
As well, the system in the above pictures still have a thin wall at the threads between the valve and base which will succumb to corrosion a lot quicker.


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Old 03-02-2013, 08:59   #9
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Re: Replacing through hulls

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Originally Posted by delmarrey View Post
Although, if the fitting is in danger of being hit by moving stores it would be best to goto the traditional seacock.
As well, the system in the above pictures still have a thin wall at the threads between the valve and base which will succumb to corrosion a lot quicker.


If the fitting in the picture above has straight female threads on the bottom of it then it looks like a very similar setup. Also I would think the wall on the threads of the mushroom fitting on the bottom would be similar to the Groco fittings....




....that I showed where I don't see the thread wall thickness on the fitting being any thinner than on the mushroom except the top of the fitting has the correct tapered thread to mate with the ball valve. The really nice think I like about the setup is if the valve becomes bad it is a lot easier to install a new one as the valve isn't the seacock. You could even do it on the water by driving a plug in from the bottom.

There is more on the install on Groco's site here....

GROCO MARINE PRODUCTS

..... go down to the IBVF and IBVF-S Series Flange Adapters.

I'm not saying it is the only way to handle the situation just one a person might want to consider,

Sum
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:47   #10
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Re: Replacing through hulls

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sumner View Post
If the fitting in the picture above has straight female threads on the bottom of it then it looks like a very similar setup. Also I would think the wall on the threads of the mushroom fitting on the bottom would be similar to the Groco fittings....




....that I showed where I don't see the thread wall thickness on the fitting being any thinner than on the mushroom except the top of the fitting has the correct tapered thread to mate with the ball valve. The really nice think I like about the setup is if the valve becomes bad it is a lot easier to install a new one as the valve isn't the seacock. You could even do it on the water by driving a plug in from the bottom.

There is more on the install on Groco's site here....

GROCO MARINE PRODUCTS

..... go down to the IBVF and IBVF-S Series Flange Adapters.

I'm not saying it is the only way to handle the situation just one a person might want to consider,

Sum


I'm currently working to replace one of my thru-hulls with this IBVF series from Groco like what's in the picture using Maine Sail's instructions on his site.

Replacing Thru-Hulls and Seacocks Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

So far, it's going pretty good. I'm only waiting for it to warm up a little before I epoxy the Fiberglass backing to the hull.

Eventually, I plan on replacing the rest of the thru-hulls with these Groco's.
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:56   #11
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Re: Replacing Through Hulls

Right here! This is what I'm talking about. The insert/thruhull is what should be changed out during haulouts because it is thin, but so are the threads on that two piece assembly.

If you have an application were there is not much room, fine! I would just change out the two piece assembly with the thruhull just to be sure.

I worked in the valve industry for 10 years repairing and rebuilding, and I've seen my fair share of broken off fittings, and this two piece application is "high maintenance", but maybe necessary in a location that needs a low profile. For straight up, the traditional seacock is best.

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Old 03-02-2013, 10:03   #12
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Re: Replacing Through Hulls

I will add my two cents: Add a T fitting above the seacock, with a plug in a straight line with the seacock and thru hull. Run the hose off at 90 degrees. That way if you ever pick up a plastic bag you can remove the plug and stick a metal rod down through the fitting to push the bag off. Happens more than you think in marinas on the refrigeration and A/C pickups.
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:32   #13
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Re: Replacing Through Hulls

You can't go wrong going to Mainesail's site and following his instructions. That being said I am guilty of taking some shortcuts. I hestitate drilling three more holes into the boat bottom and while there is nothing wrong with doing that I wonder how necessary it is. Check with some high end boat mfg like Oyster, Hinckley and Morris to see how their thru hull were installed. Another suggestion is to go to Tanana Owners Group site and ask for suggestions. I did replace one thru hull on my 1985 T-37 two years ago, but that thru hull contained the depth sounder which needed replacing. The yard did the installation and charged me 2 1/2 hours of labor at $90 per hour. Try to get a firm price for any work if you can rather than the hourly rate. I said nothing about the charge, but thought it could have been quicker even though the thru hull was difficult to get to and it did have to be grinded off. I ended up installing the wiring to the navpod display myself and that took me 3 hours so maybe the labor charge for the thru hull install was not so much out of line. Best of Luck.
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:41   #14
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Re: Replacing Through Hulls

By "thru-hulls" do you just mean replace the threaded mushroom shaped fittings? or the seacocks also? If the seacocks.... think long and hard if you have the nice big bronze tapered cone style as many of those boats do. They are readily cleaned up and serviced. None of the multi threaded ball valve examples above are as good as those are. They are fine, but you have the best. By all means replace the actual thru hulls if you want.
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:40   #15
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Re: Replacing Through Hulls

One of the places you need to inspect very closely is where the mushroom meets the threaded shaft of the casting, I have found them to have small cracks after being on the vessel for a long period of time.
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