Replacing Teak Deck Bungs

[DaddyHobbit]

I need to replace the bungs in my teak deck I see some of the screw heads. I am nervous about taking out the screws and then drilling out a countersink hole. I worry I will go to far into the deck and really muck things up.

Can anyone point me to a video telling me how to do it so it does not look as though Laurel and Hardy have done the job.
Thanks
Jim
S/V Osprey
Saint Thomas VI

[HopCar]

I think your first step is to remove a screw and see how much wood is left. If there is enough wood to drill deeper, use a countersink with a stop collar to prevent drilling too deep. Take a look at the W.L. Fuller web site: Products
You want to use a C-type countersink with a stop collar. The taper point drills these are normally used with are great for wood screws but not for self tapping screws. If you are using self tapping screws, use a regular drill bit.

[cheoah]

Great website, thx.

csh

[Bloodhound]

Your screws are probably sheet metal type stainless with a domed head. As you remove each screw, drop it over the side --- do not reuse any screws. They're cheap and will more likely tear if reused. Make sure you have enough deck thickness left and use a spade bit to redrill the hole a wee bit deeper. Use tape on the bit to ensure you don't go too deep. The point on the bit will be enough to start a new screw -- no pilot hole necessary. Put a dab of caulk in the hole and screw the new fastener home. Soak teak bung and use a bit of gorrilla glue to hold it in place. May need a gentle tap with a small hanner to put it home. After drying, remove excess bung with sharp chisel, and sand even with deck. I generally find a bung or two missing every week as PO sanded deck and left existing bungs too thin to stay. Almost all replaced now, after two years!

[DaddyHobbit]

Very sound advice thank you everyone. I will go to the site and order the correct countersink. I am sure the original owner replaced some if not all of the bungs. I am the third owner and still sorting out the mess left from the second owner.
Fair winds and following seas,
Jim

[minaret]

x2 on Fuller countersink/counterbore with stop collar. Anyone here familiar with the Japanese Kugihiki? I'm kind of a tool nut, but this one is worth looking into for flush cutting lots of bungs quickly without risk of fracturing one and having to redo it. It's basically a flexible Dozuki with no set to the teeth, so you can flush cut without scratching the work surface. I find you still need a final shave with a very sharp chisel reversed, but it's a real time saver if you're doing a lot of them. Japanese hand tools are awesome, my collection keeps growing...


Buy Japanese "Kugihiki" Flush Cutting Saw at Woodcraft.com

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Bloodhound

Your screws are probably sheet metal type stainless with a domed head. As you remove each screw, drop it over the side --- do not reuse any screws. They're cheap and will more likely tear if reused. Make sure you have enough deck thickness left and use a spade bit to redrill the hole a wee bit deeper. Use tape on the bit to ensure you don't go too deep. The point on the bit will be enough to start a new screw -- no pilot hole necessary. Put a dab of caulk in the hole and screw the new fastener home. Soak teak bung and use a bit of gorrilla glue to hold it in place. May need a gentle tap with a small hanner to put it home. After drying, remove excess bung with sharp chisel, and sand even with deck. I generally find a bung or two missing every week as PO sanded deck and left existing bungs too thin to stay. Almost all replaced now, after two years!

Why Gorilla glue? That stuff foams out and makes a mess that gets in the way of nice clean chiseling. I like to use WEST with fast hardener or G5. G5 actually lasts surprisingly well. And since it cures in 5 minutes it makes the job go really fast.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/g5/

Both are nice and clear too. No color ring around your deck bungs.

[SV Demeter]

If there is not enough wood left I prefer to remove screw and fill hole with thickened epoxy then a wood plug. Epoxy becomes a plastic screw.