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Old 30-09-2008, 00:01   #16
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I'll second the recommendation for industrial riggers. Much much cheaper, A1 quality and many are ISO certified, so when it comes time for insurance you have another piece of paper to wave around.
If you really want to save big bucks, have them fit industrial sockets, instead of norseman or sta-lock stuff, and once again you can walk away with all the certificates you need for insurance purposes.

... Ok Efraim, please educate me ... What the heck is an "Industrial socket?"
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Old 30-09-2008, 00:27   #17
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I have just had my 45ftr done. We fitted a new mast, that I supplied. So the job consisted of removing the old mast, fitting the new mast. I built the mast head and mast step and a substantial amount of other work. We re-used the winches and most lines. A few additional lines where added. So far it has cost NZ$15K.
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Old 30-09-2008, 06:21   #18
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... Ok Efraim, please educate me ... What the heck is an "Industrial socket?"
Do a search for "spelter socket", they are the most common.
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Old 30-09-2008, 06:28   #19
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Efraim,

I don't see SS sockets? What reaction is galvanized to SS?
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Old 03-12-2008, 05:34   #20
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I'll "third" the industrial rigger suggestion. I have been talking to "J Henry Holland" in Norfolk, VA. The wire and terminals are less expensive than I've found most places. They will fab the wires or, get this, I can fab them and, for $30 or so each, they will proof test them for me. That way I can know I did them right and sleep more soundly at night. I can also get the mill certs on the wire so there is no doubt as to it's origin.

I've been looking to use Esmet's Electroline terminal fittings for my rig. These are mil spec fittings and come with full product certs. Has anyone ever used them?

BTW, most Ind. riggers (at least those near ports or naval bases) also sell; harnesses, yacht line, 3-strand, Spectra, Amsteel, toggles, pelican hooks, tools, chain, etc. They also do splices and will pre-stretch synthetic ropes.

Now, if I could just convince myself that EIPS would look as good as SS I could really save some $$.

The only problem with the spelter sockets for a DIY'er is that molten metal will just ruin a fiberglass cockpit. HaHa
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Old 03-12-2008, 07:46   #21
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If your going to have a rigger do the work I recomend Port Towsend Rigging. Dan, Lisa and crew are great to deal with. They have a web site and are normally at the Seattle Boat Show in January. No connection just a satisfied customer.
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Old 04-12-2008, 06:54   #22
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I learned this from a boat rigger.

Measure the length of the shrouds. This can be done with a halyard for a rough estimate.

Add a few feet to this lenght, based on how confident you are in your measurement.

Get the wire and have swage fittings put on one end of each shroud.

Go back to the boat and use a halyard as a temp. shroud, un pin a shroud and replace with the sage end at the mast head.

Install a stalok or Norseman on the bottom at the proper lenght of wire.

Upper swage fittings last longer than lowers.

Whatever you do, be sure to have a safety harness with a safety line.
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Old 04-02-2009, 21:56   #23
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Do the spelter sockets come in marine types (stainless or bronze) and do they work as well with 1x19 wire as they do with more multistranded types that seem to be used in indistrial applications ?
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Old 05-02-2009, 05:16   #24
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Do the spelter sockets come in marine types (stainless or bronze) and do they work as well with 1x19 wire as they do with more multistranded types that seem to be used in indistrial applications ?
Yes. Years ago (1998?) we bought some from New Found Metals in Seatle USA, we used them on 1x19 ss wire, using Socketfast as the socketing media.
I recently looked at their online catalog and see no mention of them. However a quick email to them might turn something up for you.
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