Replacing Lifelines with Solid Rails

[MikeinLA]

I'm looking into doing this, but just in the cockpit up to the gates. More secure and more places to mount things like BBQs, Lifesling, etc. I think Caliber is now doing their cockpits this way.

Mike

[off-the-grid]

So any ideas on where to get materials? The welder is striking out. I'm striking out. Even have dad looking...and striking out.

No one seems to have tube steel. I found one source online, but the guy doing the job thought it was a little too light weight, only 16 gauge. He said we ideally want 11 gauge.

[barnakiel]

Depends on the boat, probably an OK on a big boat but on a small one the weight up might be a consideration.

b.

[SkiprJohn]

Alco Iron and Metal Company, San Leandro, CA. They'll have anything you want, cut it to length and ship it.
They charge by the pound for the material.
regards

[forsailbyowner]

I use .065 wall 1" stainless for making bimini frames. I am considering the same project. Am thinking I would have to tighten up centers of stanchions. With the cable they're typically 6' apart. The hard rails I see are 40" or so on center. If you check out miamicorp.com or manarthirsch.com they both have tubing up to 1.25" in 305 and 316. I've been looking for a reasonable price for "T" fittings. I pay about $3 for stainless bimini fittings but none of my suppliers carry the rail fittings.
The rail fittings would negate the need for onsite welding and the associated fees.

[off-the-grid]

We're going to use 1". Going to try to do it with a single piece on each side of the boat. And with the tops of the stanchions sticking up into the rail a little bit.

[LoudMusic]

I'm curious if anyone has replaced lifelines with solid rails in the past couple years. What are your thoughts about the difference, and if you're willing to share, how much did you pay. Pictures are always a bonus

[Madehn]

yes i did this on my gulfstar 51-- we love it and it was not that hard to do-- put stainless T fittings on the top of all stanchions - i through bolted mine in place of the little allen screw that normally holds them in place but if i was doing it again i might have just drilled out a small dimple in the stanchion for the allen to go into and then used loctite. stainless steel tubing in 1 inch or 7/8 inch is readily avaliable at almost any marine supply house- normally comes in 10 foot lengths- i was able to mend mine to fit the contour of the boat and then made sure that any connection points were done at the T fitting and again through bolted the fitting to both the stanchion and the ends of the rods-- it has worked out well and gives a much better feeling of security. looks fine as well-- it did ad about an inch to the height- i did the top rail only and left the bottom as wire although i also put a thicker wire in place of the smaller that i had to replace.

[Suijin]

Originally Posted by off-the-grid

We're going to use 1". Going to try to do it with a single piece on each side of the boat. And with the tops of the stanchions sticking up into the rail a little bit.

I would think twice about doing it as one piece for the simple reason that if you ever need to take it off...to rebed stanchions etc., you'll have to cut. One option is to make a ferule near each stanchion (you can buy tubing that will sleeve inside the 1") so the sections plug into each other. You won't sacrifice much if anything in terms of strength and rigidity and will make it more manageable if you have to take part of it apart. A good fabricator can make the seam near invisible.

Stainless 1" was running @ $8/foot last I checked. I suppose it depends on where you are. You'll also need to camber it. It's certainly a job for a marine fabricator if you want a good result. And a good marine fabricator will be able to source the tubing required.

I know a few people who have done this and they love it. Makes the whole thing more rigid and stronger. I think most people leave the lower wire.

[admiralslater]

On our Outremer We just replace the the old lifelines with a hybrid system . From the shrouds aft is tube and and forward is wire . My primary reason was the abiity to mount saftey gear better . I ut a vertical member between the tubes in the aft section as well . Very happy with the result