I’ll try to keep this short:
built rub rails from an anodized aluminum
extrusion plus a teak
half round plus a stainless striker. No doubt a handsome design when new. About a foot down the topsides from the toe rail.
After 35 years, the anodizing on the extrusion has given up the ghost and is weeping aluminum
oxide down the sides of the blue boat. It is unacceptably difficult to remove without assaulting the Awlgrip. The teak
half round is also dead. Will not hold a finish because of all the screw holes in it. So what is the “zero” maintenance
solution at a reasonable DIY price
Here’s the gating item:
When we painted the boat five years ago from white gel coat to blue Awlgrip. we did not remove the rub rail. Ah, the clarity of hindsight.
So the new rub rail MUST be at least 2 11/16” wide at the base to cover the portion covered by the old rail. The only one I have found that wide and with a flat base is sold by Hamilton Marine
PVC RUB RAIL WHITE 3" 45' LENGTH *TRK* 159753
Super high density PVC. Looks and feels bullet proof. Is available in a 45 foot length which will produce a joint free rail. I plan on putting the SS striker on top on that. I’ll lose ½” of “thickness” unless I mill 45 feet of starboard or something equivalent to make it more proud. But then I would have several joints I suppose.
Pix are below of the prior aluminum and teak and the three colors of the PVC.
Any suggestions before I pull the trigger on this project
?? I’m sure you all have some clever alternatives!
And while we’re at it, what caulk do you recommend for bedding the rail to the hull
(flexible and only slightly adhesive
, not 5200)? Sikaflex?