Replacing Glass in Old Portlights - Help !

[Bluemansailor]

Hi gang,
am getting ready for a refit of a new to me boat - Nassau 34 built 1985. She has about a dozen great older bronze heavy portlights at the glass has become crazed and fogged over. I'm assuming that it is probably 2ply car glass that is currently installed.

Looks like that there is a metal ring that goes around the glass with a bedding material behind it that holds it all together. Has anyone ever work with this type portlight and replaced the glass.. I have about 10 ports to redo.

Suggestions on replacing and suggestions on what type of sealant to use greatly appreciated. thanks all.

[zeehag]

there is supposed to be a rubber gasket in side to keep water out--- is a material like inner tube for tires. i have round ones, in 3 sizes -- ine donot leak so i wont mess with em.

[hellosailor]

It is unsual for GLASS to become crazed. Plastics, yes. Glass? No. If that is laminated safety glass and it looks crazed, probably it has been shattered from some type of impact and just the safety film is holding it together.

Fogged usually indicates PLASTIC not glass. UV exposure and petrochemicals will fog and craze plastics.

Take one off, go to a glazier and see what they have to say. If it is plastic you can cut new material to shape with a saw, but if it is glass you will probably have to have it professionally cut, especially if you want laminated safety glass. Since glass and plastics often come in different thicknesses, you may need to match what is in there. If you buy plastic, you don't want the cheap stuff sold for napkin holders. The proper UV-resistant scratch-resistant marine glazing types will cost you more, and probably won't be in stock except at larger suppliers.

[Bluemansailor]

Thanks hellosailor- it is glass, and the it hasn't been shattered, the fogging and color distortion is inside the glass which leads me to believe that it's a 2 ply glass and the glue or whatever the Chinese used to make the glass ply with, is deteriorating.

Really wondering about the rubber gasket, I guess I need to take one apart.
I tend to agree with you zeehag, about if it doesn't leak don't mess with it but some of the windows you can barely see through. This is the driest boat I've ever owned - but I'm the type whenever I hear a boat coming into where I'm anchored I like to keep ane ye on them.

[ssanzone]

this is a HUGE mistake... stop now, replace these portlights with plastic and send the bronze ones to me (i will generously cover the cost of shipping).

-steve

[James S]

I removed all mine and rebuilt them...before you start find a way to mark them...you will find that they are sets...I used a center punch.
I replaced the glass with tempered the same as the original...I think it was 4 or 6mm
I re-bed the new glass with black silicone...first a heavy bead in the frame then the glass goes in then another heavy bead between the edge of the glass and the frame, then screwed the metal ring in.....

I spent lots of time cleaning excess silicone off the glass from both sides.

The hard part was finding the right size and compression characteristics for the final seal/gasket....I tried different sizes of rubber, silicon and foams of various density's finally ended up ordering some 10mm dia. neoprene cord and it was just right...friction fit with the joint at the top...remember to compress it by sort of bunching it up as you put it in...this will insure you resist the temptation to stretch it.
I ordered mine from Polymax LTD in Hampshire England.

Its a big job.

[Bluemansailor]

Thanks James, that's what I was looking for. I understand that you used on the frame against the glass and on the edge of the glass, where did you use the cord? I did find a supplier here in the states.

[James S]

The cord is the gasket that seals the opening bit to the fixed bit.
Can you see the red arrow.

[Celestialsailor]

Originally Posted by ssanzone

this is a HUGE mistake... stop now, replace these portlights with plastic and send the bronze ones to me (i will generously cover the cost of shipping).

-steve

Don't listen to him...Send them to me in California were I can dispose them safely in a green zone...namely...my boat

[David Nereia]

Hey Blueman

I have the exact same portlights and the exact same problem. Almost the exact same boat : I have a 1985 Ta Shing Baba. I'm guessing our boats were built by the same folks, or at least that the yards ordered portlights from the same supplier.

I've been told not to remove them, but they look bad - just like yours. Hard to have such a pretty boat and then have these crappy looking windows, eh? I'd like to stay in touch so we can share info on solving the problem. I'm in St. Pete Florida outfitting and repairing and such. Hoping to find a marine glazier who can do a good job ...

David Holubetz

[Bluemansailor]

HI David-
I have to agree- probably the same supplier. I'm going to try and replace one over the winter. My boat is coming out of the water in 2 weeks and will be on the hard for about 10 months- hoping to get a lot of refitting done.
First thing I have to do is replace some soggy deck while it's still a little warm out and then tackle the inside. As soon as I get a window out and get a new glass cut I'll be in touch.

How is your refit going?
Roland

[Sam Plan B]

I have four bronze portlights in my boat. I bought them on ebay for $100 each. They looked like they came from a freight salvage deal. The glass in each one was broken with a hammer or something. I knocked out the glass and cleaned the sealant / adhesive with acetone. It took a long time but they finally cleaned up nicely. Next I made a drawing of the glass and checked this with a cardboard template. I sent the drawing to a plastics supplier and had replacement glass cut from 1/4" tinted lexan. The ports went back together easily. I used balck Dow 5200 for sealant. They look nice.

[SVTatia]

Bluemansailor, where are you located? If you are in the US, McMaster Carr carry several sizes and types of gasket material (EPDM the closed cell type). Link here http://www.mcmaster.com/#epdm-rubber/=epguxj

I am doing my 6 ports now, except that mine are aluminum and my boat was built in 1967. Your design is exactly like mine. You'll see that when you remove the gasket, you will uncover screws holding the flange to the frame. The glass is bedded and compressed between this flange and the frame. Please check this forum as there is substantial information about which material (you definitely want cast acrylic, better known as Plexiglass) and which sealant to use (you want Dow 795) link: http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/lexan-bonding-24956.html

This is not a difficult job and you will be proud when finished. Start with one port - just undo the bolt and nut and remove the inside part from the hinge on port frame, cover the outside with plastic. Remove the gasket carefully starting on the joint and save it for sizing. Check what is underneath. When you try to remove the glass, be careful not to break it as you will be using it for a template – it may be hard coming off the sealant. Once you have done this, measure it, find a plastic supplier and check the McMaster Carr website for the gasket size. PM me if you need. Good luck.

[Shoalcove]

Hi SVTatia, I just pulled the 4 aluminum ports on my CL35 which are probably the same as yours. Mine were painted and I think I will have them anodized if possible. Otherwise, Perfection 2-part poly. Did you get your gaskets at McMaster or find a Canadian source. Mine have real glass I was planning on reusing. Is there any reason not to? Cheers!

[SVTatia]

Shoalcove

Instead of having mine re-anodized I have sanded them and will have them spray painted with US Paint 545 primer then Awlgrip aluminum color paint. Same process as on my previous boat and it was good for the 15 years I had her. Painting if well prepared adhere really well and provides more protection than anodizing.
I got my gaskets from McMaster Carr which unfortunately does not ship to Canada, but I pick my stuff up at Niagara Falls, well worth the hour and a half drive.
My ports had real glass, but I am replacing this with cast acrylic (green tint really cool) just because I broke two of them removing from the frame. My frames are pitted, but still have a lot of life and will definitely outlast the boat.