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Old 08-01-2011, 11:10   #16
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Originally Posted by zeehag View Post
just remember if you add the west(WHITE COLORED) filler , the end result is WHITE spot-- with the teak sawdust, is TEAK colored. any epoxy should work--i have used many kinds on my formosa...i just dont mix 'em in the same area...yet....
I never suggested adding the white filler. That clearly (pardon the pun) would be a mistake. If you drill the hole slightly larger than the damaged area, you won't need any filler, wood or not. It also will not look like a patch doing it this way.


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Old 08-01-2011, 12:09   #17
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Make a temporary plug out of any softwood, pine would be good. It doesn't have to be perfect, just fill the most of the existing hole. Glue it in with any wood glue.(Tite Bond, Elmers, etc.) Decide what size Teak bung (plug) you need. It should be as large as, or larger than the damaged area. These plugs may be purchased at many marine suppliers, or a local marine wood fabrication shop, boat repair service, hunt around. I make my own, and have made them from 1/4", to 1". you can make your own plugs, but you need a special plug cutter, and it works the best in a drill press.

After deciding on size, and getting the plug, get a couple. Purchase or borrow a Brad Point drill bit of the appropriate size, nominally, to drill a new hole. Follow the other directions, using epoxy and teak sawdust to adhere the plug in place. Leave it proud, (sticking out a little), and when the epoxy sets, use a chisel, if you are comfortable using wood working tools, and pare (carve) is almost flush. Sand it flush with 80 grit sand paper, then use finer grit, to finis it, and to feather in the surrounding finish.

It is important that you install a temporary plug first so the drill bit has something to bite into, otherwise the drill bit will walk and do more damage. After you get the knack of it, you will run around and repair all the holes where things have been removed, pulled out,etc.

You actually can use TiteBond III, as it is water proof, but epoxy would be the best.

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Old 08-01-2011, 12:28   #18
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I agree with everything from "Keepondancin" except a brad point bit will not leave a clean edge because it is designed to bore a hole. It will rip and splinter the hole. A forester bit is designed to cut the outside edge clean and the bore out the center. One again home depot sells these as singles or as a set. The best choice for this repair is a 3/8". Home depot also sells the plug cutter and the best type to get is the tapered plug cutter. Almost impossible to use in a drill by hand unless you have the drill press attachment,,,also from Home depot. BTW, did I mention I own stock in Home Depot
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Old 08-01-2011, 12:48   #19
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Originally Posted by brankin View Post
... a brad point bit will not leave a clean edge because it is designed to bore a hole. It will rip and splinter the hole. A forester Forstner bit is designed to cut the outside edge clean and the bore out the center ...
A Brad Point bit can cut a clean hole, but a Forstner (after it's inventor, Benjamin Forstner) will drill a more flat bottomed plug hole.

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Old 08-01-2011, 17:38   #20
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You don't need epoxy for that job - an overkill (as are any suggestions other than a simple plug). An exterior wood glue is easier, cheaper and dries perfectly clear. Eg, Selleys Aquadhere Exterior - Selleys
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Old 09-01-2011, 08:34   #21
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Those tap-loks work well. I used them to bolt the floor boards down on my last Grampian. Inserted them into the floor timbers and bolted the floor boards down with 1/4-20 countersunk machine screws.

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Old 15-01-2011, 03:03   #22
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Drill the hole clean with a small bit, 1/8" or what ever is just over size for the stripped out hole. Soak several splinters of teak in TiteBond III for a few miniutes, then insert each, one by one into the hole, until they jam up. Tap the last few in with a small hammer, just to get them in, not to bottom them in the hole. Let dry, then shave the pieces sticking out, sand flush and reinsert the screw. The same can be done with epoxy, though it's messier and not necessary on a fastener like this. The splinter method just replaces the torn out threads with more wood, so you have something for the screw to grip.

Blind nuts and thread inserts are the better way, certainly more durable and can take much more abuse, not to mention the serviceability. Unless you remove the canvas a lot, these would be over kill to some degree, but they are quite effective.
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Old 15-01-2011, 04:25   #23
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Originally Posted by GordMay View Post
Threaded insert, & machine screw (rather than wood screw)?
Groov-Pin - Tap-Lok Wood series provides strong threads in one step in hard or soft woods

The results will be much stronger than the original.

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