Wow, thanks for all the input! I am very appreciative, and very impressed with everyone's effort.
Thickness: 1 1/2", Width: 4 7/8" (slightly less where modified for cross pieces),
Beam Length: >7ft., and there is a second 3ft+ length glued to the underside on the end of the beam arm, which corresponds with where it rests on the stern of the deck
. Basically, the 3 1/2ft pieces on the ends are great big shims to clear the stern "cap rail" teak.
Yes, stanchion base.
I should have written: mounting location for a stern railing "stanchion" pad.
The stanchion mounting thru the beam is through bolted, but to Minaret's point, the holes where not fully clear, so there was some friction there. This location also felt some pressure from the less than precise alignment of the railing/stanchion and its mounting holes versus the location of the holes in the teak beam.
The wood is very dry, although I have since gotten it wet, but a soaking in salt water
does seem like a good idea. Also, to Minaret's point, the cut of wood is not optimum. I'm realizing the dryness with the poor cut combined are enough to have split the wood.
The wood does not want to close from it's present split location. In spite the split, the wood is very solid. I would agree that it is more cosmetic, as long as it does not continue to run.
-Several clamps were first used to get some wooden pieces in place across the edge of both sides, then beveled shims added in order to clamp it square. Again, wood does not want to move.
-Clamping only wants to promote cracking on beam on other side.
Given this, my gut feel is that the most practical way to repair this beam is to take the structure apart, ie. separate the beam from the cross pieces, and clean it all up, do repairs/clamping to the beams individually, then put back together, assuming it's still practical to reuse.
The large crack pretty much terminates just outboard
of the inboard aft mounting hole. But there is a small crack that wants to continue forward from the opposite side of the aft hole to the forward inboard mounting hole, albeit a surface crack at this point. The stanchion in this location wants to spring out, ie creates a side load to port, which is also consistent with the cracking. I don't think that was the start of it though. I think given what I'm seeing on the other side, it started with the end of the wood, it's dryness, and the cut of the wood.
Re-useable or not once beam solution is final, I'm guessing guidance would be to separate the stanchion from railing, mount/fit/measure for proper alignment, and then re-weld, so as to remove any loading.
Given what I am seeing on this piece with epoxy, and the previous mentioned concerns about expansion and contraction, not confident epoxy is the best adhesive
choice. I looked up weldwood, and saw mixed reviews
, and mentions that it is not a good gap filler.
The Oak and Teak Epoxy, by Smith's looks interesting. Any recent experience? Generally, I like Smith's. Are they well beyond the days of an occasional bad batch due sourcing of resins? How does it do in a joint where expansion and contraction will happen with temperature change? I ask because in every application I have seen on this boat
with epoxy in a teak joint, the joint has had contraction in summer months and epoxy pulled away on one side. And a UV inhibited coating over top did not help, the joint still contracted enough to pop epoxy to wood joint on one side. A flexible caulk was a better choice for joints that didn't require bonding. And for those that require bonding, well I'm not sure yet.
The platform needs to go to the yard, so the folks who are to do the deck
have a complete picture of what will need to bolt thru the deck and where. I was hoping to have the platform cleaned up and better protected before going to the yard, but since it means dismantling for repair or replacement, I think it needs to wait, as the yard wouldn't benefit from it being in pieces, nor do I want to delay, or make new pieces now only to sit in the yard.
For future steps:
Re-do stanchion alignment, or assure aligning holes if a new piece of wood.
Re-juvenate wood in salt water
, not as easy as dunking in bay, span of beams almost 7ft, in addition to the length and is heavy.
Fill crack, and or bond in shim after cutting, and set screws across with plugs, or just fill, and screw, or remake. Assure clear holes for thru-bolting.
What's the likelihood of this coming apart without breaking (mortises and tenons and such)?
If not mortise and tenon, then what would be the better way to join these pieces of wood?
Prior local source of teak is gone. Teak Decking Systems seems to source quality teak, but across country. Any other sources of merit?
What adhesives bond wood, survive thermal expansion/contraction movement of wood/joint, and are UV resistant, and/or will take a coating over?
Everyone, thanks again.