Remounting of SS deck protector / plate

[svmidnightmile]

I'm contemplating the best way to re-mount the stainless protector plate shown in the image. Previously, it was simply screwed into the deck (plywood core) with no bedding or sealant of any kind. Obviously that was a terrible idea because over time the core rotted and the deck de-laminated. Water could enter the deck from the screw holes but also could flow in under the plate from around the perimeter.

I had it re-cored with coosaboard so its super strong and rigid now.

For other deck hardware I like butyl tape but since this plate is not through-bolted, I'm wondering if there might be a better way.

I'm leaning towards sealing around the perimeter to keep any water from coming in under the plate but then of course each screw would need to be sealed as well.

Anyone have a similar deck plate the installed or re-installed?

[AiniA]

We mounted a smaller stainless plate (that protected the glass from the anchor chain) with VHB tape. it worked very well and you don't even have screws to worry about.

[mike d.]

You could use 4200 !

[Uncle Bob]

You could eliminate the stainless plate altogether, it's not under the windlass and allows water to gather around it, and paint the area with something like kiwigrip for non skid and appearance. If you feel that the stainless is needed/wanted then slather the entire underside with a polyurethane bedding adhesive and through bolt with the correct length bolts and use nylock nuts with stainless mudguard washers. From the pics you have access to the underside.

[stormalong]

Interesting the way those plated are split and mounted. Since you will be dragging chain back and forth over them I do not think very high bonding tape would be a good choice. You do not want to loose one of them - finding an exact replacement may be impossible. They could be through bolted which IMO is the best solution. Sheet metal screws into fiberglass would be almost as good.

3M 4200 or 5200 would be my choice for caulk. The 5200 is really an adhesive. The screws should also be bedded. Salt water sitting in the gap if it is not bedded will cause rust and crevasse corrosion.

[svmidnightmile]

Thanks all for the input. Bonding tape is an interesting idea but since I already have holes in the plate, it might look a little off. Plus those transverse ribs are held on by screws - not stamped into the plate as it might look. I've seen 5200 pull gelcoat off - not my first choice but I agree this is probably best sealed everywhere and through-bolted. I might see what the coosaboard guys say about screws as well.

[odonnellryan]

Whenever I have to screw into the deck (think a cover for a thru-deck for wires, for example) I always drill out the holes, fill with epoxy and let harden. Then I pre-drill the epoxy and seal an screw into the epoxy.

You have a lot of holes but should not be too bad.

[Cheechako]

I dont see a plate but I assume it's a big one that goes on the taped area? or like the narrow strips shown? What a mess. You dont need it. I'd eliminate it and go with a narrow one if it's chain protection you are looking for. Or a plank of hard hard wood. Or for low maintenance, Starboard! Or maybe a strip of Treadmaster!

[wrwakefield]

I would try to avoid all those light-bearing screw holes in your newly reinforced deck.

Is the plate thick enough to tap for short rub strip mounting screws that would be flush on the bottom of that SS plate? [You may have to fill the through holes in the ss plate to enable tapping...]

My thinking is there is no shear force on that plate, so 4200 UV would be more than adequate to keep it in place- especially since your chain stopper is through bolted in the middle of it. [Install that after the bedding compound is set so you don't cause the SS plate to distort when the chain stopper bolts are tightened...]

Also use 4200 [or Sikaflex 291] to mount those rub strakes in place, with short screws that could also just be cosmetic screw heads held in place with the 4200... [i.e., 4200 will keep those rub strakes from moving... OR use 3M VRM tape as previously suggested. I have rain visors attached above ports with VRM tape and they don't budge...]

Or perhaps there is more to it that I am able to discern...

Best wishes sorting it out to suit your needs.

Cheers! Bill

[svmidnightmile]

Originally Posted by wrwakefield

I would try to avoid all those light-bearing screw holes in your newly reinforced deck.

Is the plate thick enough to tap for short rub strip mounting screws that would be flush on the bottom of that SS plate? [You may have to fill the through holes in the ss plate to enable tapping...]

My thinking is there is no shear force on that plate, so 4200 UV would be more than adequate to keep it in place- especially since your chain stopper is through bolted in the middle of it. [Install that after the bedding compound is set so you don't cause the SS plate to distort when the chain stopper bolts are tightened...]

Also use 4200 [or Sikaflex 291] to mount those rub strakes in place, with short screws that could also just be cosmetic screw heads held in place with the 4200... [i.e., 4200 will keep those rub strakes from moving... OR use 3M VRM tape as previously suggested. I have rain visors attached above ports with VRM tape and they don't budge...]

Or perhaps there is more to it that I am able to discern...

Best wishes sorting it out to suit your needs.

Cheers! Bill

An interesting idea. The plate itself is about 1/8 inch so it could potentially be tapped. I have to admit I like the idea of not putting holes through the skin into the core. I'll look into this more - thanks for the idea Bill!

Today, I was reassured by Coosa composites that the bluewater coosaboard is comparable to wood for initial screw retention and since its impervious to water it would probably be fine to drill it. They suggested to pre-drill it and put a little epoxy in each screw hole.

More head scratching!

[stormalong]

Now you have me confused. By SS deck protector / plate do you mean the oval hawse pipes that are cut in half and straddle the forward edge of the anchor well hatch?

That is what I thought you meant.

[svmidnightmile]

Originally Posted by stormalong

Now you have me confused. By SS deck protector / plate do you mean the oval hawse pipes that are cut in half and straddle the forward edge of the anchor well hatch?

That is what I thought you meant.

In the picture, its the large flat plate that surrounds the windlass and has the chain guide bolted on it. Wasn't speaking about the deck pipes.

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by svmidnightmile

In the picture, its the large flat plate that surrounds the windlass and has the chain guide bolted on it. Wasn't speaking about the deck pipes.

Well in that case ignore my first response. That plate won't move a millimeter if it is clamped by the windlass and also held by other strips of stainless. My earlier remarks about sealing out the salt water are still valid.

You will have quite a rust bleed from under that plate if salt water sits under it. The bottom of that plate must also be scratched up with coarse sandpaper to allow the caulk to stick to it.

BTW, I had to blow up the picture to even see that there was a plate under the windlass.