Refurbishing The Cabin Sole.

[Cheechako]

Shiny will be slippery if not covered. Just cover in the walking path. Varathane (polyurethane) works well for floors. Do not use spar varnish or Cetol... both are too soft for floors.
Some Basketball courts use Varathane. My dad used to work there!
The courts have no "grip" to the surface, the shoes do that.

[Jolly Roger]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Shiny will be slippery if not covered. Just cover in the walking path. Varathane (polyurethane) works well for floors. Do not use spar varnish or Cetol... both are too soft for floors.
Some Basketball courts use Varathane. My dad used to work there!
The courts have no "grip" to the surface, the shoes do that.

That's interesting. I've just looked at a few basketball court finishes and non of them mention non slip, or no grip. It's Saturday, so I can't call them until Tuesday, but I'll persist. JR

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger

That's interesting. I've just looked at a few basketball court finishes and non of them mention non slip, or no grip. It's Saturday, so I can't call them until Tuesday, but I'll persist. JR

?? That's what I was saying. Courts are smooth and shiny.

[Transpac 67]

If you want to reduce slipping on a deck you might try adding groundup walnut shells to the paint/varnish. The particles float in the mix and will provide a great nonslip surface when it drys, I am not sure how it would appear in the varnish but it really works well on a painted deck.

[Jim Cate]

Frankly, I believe that any high gloss finish will be slippery when wet, no matter what it says on the tin. And, having played basketball in quite a few gyms years ago, I seem to remember that refs were pretty quick to swab up the areas where sweaty players fell. Why? Because the damp spots were slippery, of course!

Jim

[UNCIVILIZED]

Look for clear polymer non-skid beads. And the varnish, epoxy, etc. holds them in place.

Also, on the Holly strips, you can tape them off, & add white sand on top of them in the same manner. Then adding several coats of clear on top of the sand.
I'd say go with 100 grit or coarser, especially to allow for a little filling in of the non-skid, from the varnish on top. Plus, the strips aren't that big, & have a good distance of slick teak in between them, so you'll want more grip than you'd think. And if the sand's too coarse, add another couple of coats of varnish on top of it.

One other trick, is to put down strips of white skateboard tape on top of the Holly.
And you can also add nice geometric patterns of strategically placed skateboard tape, in obvious high slip areas. Whether you use a stock color, or paint it to match or contrast with the floorboards.

[Jim Cate]

Not practical as an afterthought, but in some older boats, the Holly ribs were left standing a bit proud of the teak main boards... maybe 2-3 mm. This gave outstanding traction, but made floor cleaning more difficult (to say the least!).

We encountered this on Candlewynd, a Herreschoff Mobjack then owned by CFer Mirar, and I was quite impressed with the safety factor, not so much with the other aspects of the technique. But the suggestions above by Unciv reminded me of this method.

Jim

[UNCIVILIZED]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

Not practical as an afterthought, but in some older boats, the Holly ribs were left standing a bit proud of the teak main boards... maybe 2-3 mm. This gave outstanding traction, but made floor cleaning more difficult (to say the least!).

We encountered this on Candlewynd, a Herreschoff Mobjack then owned by CFer Mirar, and I was quite impressed with the safety factor, not so much with the other aspects of the technique. But the suggestions above by Unciv reminded me of this method.

Jim

Jim, your description of the way to use Holly strips, is the only proper way to use them in my book. And are what immediately springs to mind at first for me, when such floorboards are mentioned.
As, done the other way, they're just overpriced decoration.

There are 101 ways to make gorgeous AND functional floorboards. Often on the cheap. And to me, ones that are made from flush Teak & Holly, are quite often, dangerous, & a waste of coin.

[Steadman Uhlich]

I think typical Teak and Holly floors look great. Love the look.

And I think most people admire them while at a docked boat that is in a marina and is not moving, not wet inside, and not sailing up and down seas and heeled at an angle.

But glossy finishes underfoot when wet can be very slippery and one should consider that a real hazard when the boat is under way in seas and pitching and heeled and it is dark and everything below is wet and the crew are dog tired and coming and going up on deck.

So, for me, it is best to have multiple nonskid strips (at minimum) going the length of the cabin sole and nonskid surface is even better.

I have slipped on steeply heeled cabin soles in the dark, crashed into furniture, wrenched my back and cursed like a sailor, all because of a slippery varnished cabin sole. And I considered myself lucky I was not more seriously injured in that fall, because I was far from any land. I always wear good sea boots or deck shoes with good gripping soles. If you try the same slippery varnished sole in stocking feet ( in socks) you will see.

My motto: Better safe than sorry when at sea.

Want a different opinion on finishes?
Here is a quick search of this forum with other threads using Google on search term "sole non slip"

https://cse.google.com/cse?cx=011403...lip&gsc.page=1

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by Steady Hand

Here is a quick search of this forum with other threads using Google on search term "sole non slip"

https://cse.google.com/cse?cx=011403...lip&gsc.page=1

Thank you for continuing to help folks search. For the obvious?

[Steadman Uhlich]

Originally Posted by Stu Jackson

Thank you for continuing to help folks search. For the obvious?

Thanks Stu!

Glad to help when I can, and I generally learn something from each search too.

I know that what is obvious to some is not so obvious to others. I certainly feel that way when I am the ignorant one wondering about some topic that everyone here seems to know, and that is often, given the breadth of issues related to sailing or boating.

I sincerely enjoy seeing the possibilities from the search and always look at the questions as a challenge to my aging brain too. So it is good mental exercise, so to speak.

My Favorite CF Forum Tip: Use the Google Custom Search Function

I know that most people who are new to this forum might try the ordinary search function of the forum when they have a question in mind. Unfortunately that always yielded few results for me when I tried that when I first joined this forum. In contrast, a standard Google search outside of the forum can produce a bewildering list of links too. It was only later that I learned to quickly and easily find great links to archived or previous threads on a topic. Since then I only use the Google Custom Search field on this forum when searching this forum, and I find all the answers I need here too using that. I find it superior to an ordinary search using the standard "search" field and usually get the answers I want very quickly. So, it is my "number one tip" to newer forum members. .

--------

That said, I still enjoy seeing what Ye Olde Salts add to these discussions, as new members and old can learn from the open discussions. While there is a wealth of information already in the older threads, the refreshed and new discussions can bring new info and members into the discussions, and I think that is good for the CF community, and fun too.

[Jolly Roger]

Thanks Steady Hand:
I followed your link and found the two salt and linseed oil methods. Amazingly S/v Eolian is a Down East 45 like mine, so that’s a direct comparison for the area to be covered.
The linseed oil sounds a better plan, since it won’t be a rough surface like the salt or additive I was going to use.
I’m going to experiment with both, and I’ll let you all know.
JR

[NakedCity]

Experiment with an abrasive additive is the right thing to do. I really think there is VERY LITTLE if ANY DIFFERENCE in how slippery one sheen is vs another.
If you want the safety of a non skid you must have an abrasive or somewhat "irregular " finish.

[Steadman Uhlich]

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger

Thanks Steady Hand:
I followed your link and found the two salt and linseed oil methods. Amazingly S/v Eolian is a Down East 45 like mine, so that’s a direct comparison for the area to be covered.
The linseed oil sounds a better plan, since it won’t be a rough surface like the salt or additive I was going to use.
I’m going to experiment with both, and I’ll let you all know.
JR

Hi.
Glad it proved useful.

Two things about using Linseed Oil:

1. It can get sticky when it dries or ages.

2. It has an odor that lasts a long time. If you eat flax seed, you will know the scent.

3. Be very careful about what you do with any rags you use to wipe or apply or clean linseed oil. They should be disposed of immediately or stored in a METAL AIR TIGHT CAN (like an old paint can). Why? Because linseed oil on fabric or paper can spontaneously combust!

Yep, it can literally burst into flames if linseed coated rags or papers are stored improperly. So, be careful about leaving anything like that on your boat. I would find an old gallon paint bucket or can (like house paint can) with a lid and wash the old paint out and then use that, with a lid on it at ALL times., for storing any linseed oil coated or damp rags.

Good luck with your project. Make sure to post a followup note about the results later.

[RDW]

So what are the pros and cons of light sanding and then applying new coats of what ever versus removing all old finish. I have sole which has Epiphanes and is not in bad shape, just a little aged. I am tempted to just sand and then reapply but I do not want to b e lazy.
RDW