Recommend Topside Paint for Steel Ketch

[Pauls]

Regards Fratchers book, it's OK if you want an example of how to make owning a metal boat a real pain. There is one best way to protect a steel hull from corrosion and that is to sandblast thoroughly and then apply a high quality paint system. Scott admits this, in one paragraph he says that this approach has a 30 year life. He then spends the rest of the book on how to do patch up jobs with a 5 year life expectancy. If that's what you want to do it's a good book. In my viewpoint it serves as an example of why you want to do the job right the first time.

[boden36]

Sand sprinkled on wet paint and then over-coated has stood the test of time for us.
Make sure you bake the sand in an oven first so it is really dry.

Regards,
Richard.

[capt-couillon]

Steel topsides like Interthane 990 (Interthane 990) by International Paints. Two part polyurethane tough stuff. Check your local yellow pages for local industrial suppliers as you won't find it at West. 88 bucks for a gallon kit and it lasts and lasts. Application, airless, or conventional spray, brush, or roll and tip. Used for big ships and bridges.

For non-skid I have had good luck just adding Internationals non skid additive to mixed paint and rolling out in masked areas. Have to be light handed to avoid "pecker tracks" and stir the paint in the tray now and then, but got a nice finish.

Doing my entire (fiberglass) topsides in 990. Not rated for such, but have done three boats with it over the last 10 years and it wears like iron. If you look at the cut sheets for 990 and Interlux high end 2 part polyurethane yacht paint they are exactly the same. (It doesn't say yacht.... Shhh don't tell anybody)

[Panope]

Consider microballoons instead of sand or silica. I believe that these will be easier to sand/grind in case of future repair or refinishing.

I used the "sprinkle on wet paint and overcoat later" technique (as an amateur) and am happy with the result.

Steve

[Glenn.Brooks]

Second the rcommendation for Kiwi grip. It is great stuff for Non skid, said to last 10 years before replacement, so initial cost last maybe 2-3 times as long as paint with sand mixed in.

For what it's worth, I used store bought non skid (fine grain silica aka sand) on several areas of my deck and cabin tops -usual method- paint, apply, recoat. Except I,thoroughly sanded and prepped the underlying surface. Here in the Pacific Northwest, the silica developed MOLD under the topcoat, and now every spring, it turns blotchy and dark, almost black. I hate it. Bleach, soap, WTD, nothing kills it, as it is embedded in the paint.

Redid my decks with kiwi grip and no problems after two,winters and three summers now. Eventually, I will strip the cabin tops and go with kiwi grip as a replacement for my sand in the paint method.


Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[Rustic Charm]

Can someone remind me does two pack paint go on single pack or is it single pack on two pack?

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by Pauls

Regards Fratchers book, it's OK if you want an example of how to make owning a metal boat a real pain. There is one best way to protect a steel hull from corrosion and that is to sandblast thoroughly and then apply a high quality paint system. Scott admits this, in one paragraph he says that this approach has a 30 year life. He then spends the rest of the book on how to do patch up jobs with a 5 year life expectancy. If that's what you want to do it's a good book. In my viewpoint it serves as an example of why you want to do the job right the first time.

Sandblasting a boat and starting from scratch is frequently said to me. But is not always a practical suggestion.

For mine, which is a 36 foot ketch, I have to remove both mast's for the only place anywhere near me to lift it with a crane into a sandblasting shed. Cost including fairing and painting, but with me supplying the paint is $10k.

[petter5]

Before making any decision, be sure to know if the existing paint is polyurethane 2 component or traditional alkyd paint. If you use polyurethane on top of alkyd paint you will get trouble. Sweet girls comes in many shapes and also with different names and so do paint. Excellent 2 component polyurethane paint is Jotun HardtopAS - will sell for +- 10$ / liter and up, depending on where you buy and what discount you get - this paint is used on most cruise ships. If it is traditional paint is needed - Jotun Pilot II is your choise - price from 5$/ liter - also depending on volume and where you buy. HardtopAS is the industrial name for the Polyurethane paint - it is also sold under other brands and names for a much higher price,,,,, To find out your type of paint, take a pice of clothing and try to "polish " the paint surface. If the cloth get color from your paint, then it is Alkyd paint. If you only removed dirt, but no paint color, then it is polyurethane paint.

[Panope]

Originally Posted by Rustic Charm

Can someone remind me does two pack paint go on single pack or is it single pack on two pack?

This two part polyurethane was sold to me as a finish that can be applied directly over single part paint.

I used it as top coat for my entire boat - waterline up. I applied it over a variety of surfaces including single part oil based enamel. Worked great.

http://ppgamercoatus.ppgpmc.com/prod...eld_PDS_AI.pdf

[Rustic Charm]

Hi all,

What do you find success in sanding the hull sides when prepping?

I used a 180mm polisher today with a sanding disk on it, but even though the sanding disk was 40 gritt it blocked continuously and I gave up.

[hpeer]

Originally Posted by Rustic Charm

Hi all,

What do you find success in sanding the hull sides when prepping?

I used a 180mm polisher today with a sanding disk on it, but even though the sanding disk was 40 gritt it blocked continuously and I gave up.

I'm not sure what you mean by hull sides. The paint on my hull sides is thin and a much finer disk is more than adequate. On my bottom I had lots of coats of paint to get off. But maybe you have some fairing on your sides and that is what you are trying to remove?

I've used a bunch of stuff but probably find the best luck with an angle grinder and flap disc. I would suggest a variable speed grinder if you can get one.

This kind of thing.......come in various grits. 40 is pretty aggressive.
Amazon.com: 20 Angle Grinder Flap Discs 4-1/2" Flat 80 Grit 7/8": Home Improvement

[hpeer]

Originally Posted by Pauls

Regards Fratchers book, it's OK if you want an example of how to make owning a metal boat a real pain. There is one best way to protect a steel hull from corrosion and that is to sandblast thoroughly and then apply a high quality paint system. Scott admits this, in one paragraph he says that this approach has a 30 year life. He then spends the rest of the book on how to do patch up jobs with a 5 year life expectancy. If that's what you want to do it's a good book. In my viewpoint it serves as an example of why you want to do the job right the first time.

I don't think anyone is debating that, including, as you noted.

In my reading he is talking about the various repair jobs that come along and explaining how to maintain the boat in between the major re coating events.

We all get scratches and dings and make modifications and have stuff happen. We can't sandblast and repaint every couple of years, so yeah, there are intermediate steps.

For example I developed a small but very deep rust spot inside a dorade. Why I don't know, very weird. But there it was in the middle and most protected part of the coach roof. So I cleaned up with a Drexel and ended up with a dime sized perfectly round hole. I welded in a bit of plate, sanded it smooth, out some epoxy on it and moved on. Surely you don't suggest I sandblast the cabin top because of this repair.

That's just the practical bit about steel boats.

[gilgsn]

Hello,

I once asked Tom Colvin by email what paint he suggested for my steel ketch restoration. He said Ameron Amerlock 400 on bare steel (sandblasted white). It is a two-part epoxy paint. I used it, awesome results. Maybe not for a super high-end finish, but tough. You do want a top coat for anything subjected to the sun though. I used simple Rustoleum polyurethane paint. I would definitely use that Ameron stuff again...

IMHO if you do not sandblast to at least near-white condition you are wasting your time.. If you do not sandblast to white condition, you should use some sort of rust inhibitor. I would not skimp on sandblasting. You also need to put the first coat on IMMEDIATELY. So you can only sandblast so much at once, then clean and paint, and repeat until completed.. Surface preparation is the most important part.

Gil.

[chala]

Originally Posted by gilgsn

IMHO if you do not sandblast to at least near-white condition you are wasting your time.. If you do not sandblast to white condition, you should use some sort of rust inhibitor. I would not skimp on sandblasting. You also need to put the first coat on IMMEDIATELY. So you can only sandblast so much at once, then clean and paint, and repeat until completed.. Surface preparation is the most important part.

Yes, yes, yes.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...tml#post318017

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ml#post1156605

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...-123685-2.html

[chala]

Originally Posted by petter5

Excellent 2 component polyurethane paint is Jotun HardtopAS -
will sell for +- 10$ / liter and up, depending on where you buy and what discount you get - this paint is used on most cruise ships.

This is cheap I pay recently $ 193 for 4 litres. 4 litres was already $ 100.- in 2001.