Cruisers Forum
 


Join CruisersForum Today

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 16-06-2009, 19:05   #1
Registered User
 
CharlieCobra's Avatar

Cruisers Forum Supporter

Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: PNW
Boat: Knutson K-35 Yawl "Oh Joy" - Mariner 31 Ketch "Kahagon" - K-40 "Seasmoke" - 30' Sloop "Baccus"
Posts: 1,290
Rebuilding Fridge / Freezer - Materials ? From Where ?

I'm getting ready to redo Oh Joy's galley and one of the projects is to build new fridge and freezer boxes. Has anyone on here done these? What did ya use and where did ya get it?
__________________

__________________
CharlieCobra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16-06-2009, 19:23   #2
Registered User
 
pressuredrop's Avatar

Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: West Palm Beach
Boat: Allied Seawind 30
Posts: 794
1'' blue board...

charlie, i am doing the same thing as you, i just purchased 4 sheets of the dow 1'' blueboard (r = 5), i might need one to two more, but i plant to cut all the sheets, glue them together, glass the outside, and using a male mold make a fiberglass liner for the inside. they say, you want 4" of insulation for a fridge and 6'' for the freezer, good luck and keep us posted
__________________

__________________
pressuredrop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16-06-2009, 19:54   #3
Wayfaring Mariner
 
captain58sailin's Avatar

Cruisers Forum Supporter

Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Homer, AK is my home port
Boat: Skookum 53'
Posts: 4,045
Images: 5
I too am planning on building a top loading refrigerator on Rose, and I will be interested to see other's ideas. I was thinking about using the 2 part pour foam and building a form for it, I have yet to hear back from the foam people as to the R factor for their different density foams, if I do, I will be sure to post the numbers here. Also where does one acquired the cooling plates needed?
__________________
" Wisdom; is your reward for surviving your mistakes"
captain58sailin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16-06-2009, 20:12   #4
Registered User
 
CharlieCobra's Avatar

Cruisers Forum Supporter

Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: PNW
Boat: Knutson K-35 Yawl "Oh Joy" - Mariner 31 Ketch "Kahagon" - K-40 "Seasmoke" - 30' Sloop "Baccus"
Posts: 1,290
Isotherm makes systems for hand built boxes.
__________________
CharlieCobra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16-06-2009, 21:42   #5
Registered User
 
mesquaukee's Avatar

Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Western Caribbean & ocassionaly inCanada
Boat: Mesqua Ukee, Buccaneer 40 (Salar 40)
Posts: 480

The best insulation is polyurethane sheet with aluminium foil on its’ face followed by expanded polystyrene and then foamed in place polyurethane.
I would not reccomend poured in place foam. The manufacterers R factor is for foam made in a carefully controlled enviroment. Temperature, mixing and any restrictions to expansion will greatly reduce the R value. The size of the gas pockets and wall thickness influence the conductivity of heat.
The insulation values are,
Material R-value (1/BTU/hr/sqft/Fº)
Polyurethane sheet 7.0
Polystyrene (blue board) 5.0
Poured polyurethane 4.5-6.0
Styrofoam 2.0-3.0
The higher the R-value the better is the insulation.
I have ripped out a number of boxes and have always found large air pockets and very dense areas of foam.
The best boxes are made of foil covered polyurethane foam readily available throughout the US. The thicker the insulation, if you have the space, the less the AHr/day. I have a 9 cuft fridge (6') and a 4 cuft freezer (8') and use a paltry 55 Ahr/day in the tropics.
What is critical and usually overlooked is a vapour barrier around the outside of the box if you plan to use it in the tropics for extended periods of time. A painted or urathaned plywood shell is not sufficient, it allows moisture through it. Over a period of time moisture will build up around the liner incresing the heat flow and it also causes other problems
Polyethelene plastic works well. Use several layers of 6 mil plasic and seal all the seams.
I would reccomend building the cabinet which would contain the box first. Line it with a few layers of polyetelene then build up layers of poyurethane foam. Cut fiberglass sheets to fit the interior, gluing it to the foam and then bond the panels together with caulking or by fiberglassing the seams. Don't forget a drain!
This may sound a bit crazy but you want the liner to leak a little. This is to allow any moisture that gets past the vapour barrier to be drawn through the liner to the evaporator plate.

If you are planning to use a 12 volt system do not purchase a cold holdover plate system. They are power hogs. You will be using 1-1/2 to 3 times the AHr/day to cool the box.


.
__________________
mesquaukee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16-06-2009, 22:10   #6
Registered User

Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: virginia
Boat: islandpacket
Posts: 1,839
check out r-parts and this guy KollmannMarine Boat Refrigeration Specialist no connection other than as a customer.
__________________
That derelict boat was another dream for somebody else, don't let it be your nightmare and a waste of your life.
Badsanta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-06-2009, 07:02   #7
Registered User

Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: PNW
Boat: Cape George 38 ext, Curious George
Posts: 30
I went through this last year and went with blue board and Seafrost equipment. Cleave, the owner will help you design the system and is great to work with. Just a happy customer.

Impressive work on the boat. Seattle weather has been good to you.

Bill
__________________
bhenry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-06-2009, 09:54   #8
Registered User
 
slacker's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: San Diego and Mazatlan
Boat: Gulfstar 37 "SLACKER"
Posts: 147
fridge rebuild

Building an Ice Box
__________________
slacker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-06-2009, 10:06   #9
Registered User

Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: In boat fixing' season I'm in a Maryland boat yard too close to Washington, DC ... except when I escape to home on the beach in Florida!
Boat: Prout Snowgoose 34
Posts: 144
I removed poured-in foam from two sealed flotation compartments. Twice. Over a period of several years they became thoroughly waterlogged.

I had polyurethane sheets that were rained on, which became watersoaked, but not the blueboard, and that became my choice for rebuilding my cooling boxes.

Roger
__________________
svtrio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-06-2009, 18:38   #10
Registered User
 
mesquaukee's Avatar

Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Western Caribbean & ocassionaly inCanada
Boat: Mesqua Ukee, Buccaneer 40 (Salar 40)
Posts: 480
It might not seem like it but water is slowly absorbed by all and every type of foam, blue board, pink board, poured in place polyurethane, sheet polyurethane, polyisocyanurate foam, etc.
It is slow and insidious. It is driven by vapour pressure. If you have taken a scuba course it is the same as the problem with nitrogen, exactly the same mechanism.
A vapour barrier or more correctly a “vapour retarding barrier” is essential. Without one over time your compressor will run more and more often.
I have attached some files which show the rates of water absorption using various enclosures.

There are a lot of misconceptions about what an efficient refrigeration system is.
It’s all about the lack of knowledge. It is easy to know if you approach it by using thermodynamics. A theoretical system can be easily designed, it’s simple. Then theory is turned into reality which involves a lot of soldering.
In Cruising World back in March of 2006 an article by Douglas Bernon called "Cruising on Ice", Log of Itaka, describes the design and construction of such a refrigeration system in the San Blass. It was made with parts readily obtainable in Latin America.
I have a lot of info on how to construct a system that I am willing to share with anyone who wants it. I would like to post it all here but there isn’t enough space.
Drop me a line if you want it.
Attached Files
File Type: doc App n 4 Moisture accumulation, table.doc (39.5 KB, 85 views)
File Type: doc App n 2 Comparison of evap type, table.doc (38.5 KB, 69 views)
File Type: doc App n 9 Capillary tubes.doc (47.5 KB, 105 views)
File Type: doc App n 3 TX-valve Superheat.doc (42.0 KB, 155 views)
__________________
mesquaukee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-06-2009, 20:14   #11
Registered User
 
CharlieCobra's Avatar

Cruisers Forum Supporter

Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: PNW
Boat: Knutson K-35 Yawl "Oh Joy" - Mariner 31 Ketch "Kahagon" - K-40 "Seasmoke" - 30' Sloop "Baccus"
Posts: 1,290
You can PM me with it if ya like.
__________________

__________________
CharlieCobra is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
freezer, refrigerator

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Separate Fridge and Freezer - Thoughts ? SV Demeter Plumbing Systems and Fixtures 22 14-07-2012 05:31
Xantrex Battery Charger Overheating - Frigoboat Fridge Sailormannn Electrical: Batteries, Generators & Solar 188 16-01-2012 08:26



Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 16:50.


Google+
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Social Knowledge Networks
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

ShowCase vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.