Raymarine st-1000+ connector issue

[Seeking Solace]

I have a ST-1000 and the connector was not mounted on the boat when I got it. The electrical connector has very tiny screws in it and the ground seems to be stripped where the set screw will not work. I put a little solder on it to get home, but really want to resolve the issue the right way.

The only idea I have is to try to put some other screw in place to secure the ground wire.

Any ideas? I know solder will not work.

[Seeking Solace]

Ok guys, I don't mean to bump my own post. It's been a few days and I thought adding a picture from the manual might be helpful. This is what the socket I'm talking about looks like.



Where the numbers are, there are very tiny set screws. It would seem that the one on the ground may be stripped.

Any ideas on fixing this would be greatly appreciated. If worse comes to worse I can try to contact raymarine and see if the socket is still available.

[Pete7]

Do you intend to use all 6 connections by using other instruments to drive the tiller pilot like a chart plotter or ST60 wind instrument?

If not you can do what we did and cut off the connector and fit a 2 pin bulgin connector ensuring just the pos and neg are connected which will work fine.

Its been going for 10 plus years now without a problem.

Pete

[Seeking Solace]

Originally Posted by Pete7

Do you intend to use all 6 connections by using other instruments to drive the tiller pilot like a chart plotter or ST60 wind instrument?

If not you can do what we did and cut off the connector and fit a 2 pin bulgin connector ensuring just the pos and neg are connected which will work fine.

Its been going for 10 plus years now without a problem.

Pete

Hi Pete,

Thank you for your response. I had very much considered removing the connector. Ultimately, I decided against that because we remove the st-1000 and lock it up whenever we leave the boat. I guess another option may be to replace it with a better connector or pigtail arrangement.

Currently we only use it to hold a heading, but having the other options is something I may want to look into in the future.

[hellosailor]

Seeking-
If Raymawho can't supply a new connector, check DigiKey and Mouser and Newark Electronics, they carry hundreds of similar connectors. It is also possible, if the screw is an SAE size, that you can get a tape and die set for a very slightly larger metric size (or vice versa) and just clean out the hole and rethread it.
Worst comes to worse, drill out the hole and use a very thin nut and bolt with a tiny o terminal lead to a new wire on the back side.

[Cheechako]

If you cant get parts, try a trailer connector from an RV store. They have tons of them in different configurations.
Have you looked on Ebay?

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

If you cant get parts, try a trailer connector from an RV store. They have tons of them in different configurations.
Have you looked on Ebay?

This is what I was thinking,

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=bu...JNcFmFFZQ7hzM:

[toddster8]

IIRC, one of the pins is "unused." When one of mine got stripped (from being chronically tripped over - poor installation location) I had to move one wire to the "unused" position on both the socket and the plug. The wires are meant to be terminated with crimp-on ferrules that the screws bear down on. They don't work so well on bare wire. As a stop-gap, filling the end of the wire with a bit of solder sort-of simulates the ferrule.

Eventually, the display went out too, and I shipped the whole thing back to Raymarine for "flat rate" service, which IIRC was about half the cost of a new unit. They restored everything to original condition.

Oh, also there was an incorrect pin-out diagram floating around, so be sure to download the newest and/or carefully compare wire colors.

[Seeking Solace]

Originally Posted by toddster8

IIRC, one of the pins is "unused." When one of mine got stripped (from being chronically tripped over - poor installation location) I had to move one wire to the "unused" position on both the socket and the plug. The wires are meant to be terminated with crimp-on ferrules that the screws bear down on. They don't work so well on bare wire. As a stop-gap, filling the end of the wire with a bit of solder sort-of simulates the ferrule.

Eventually, the display went out too, and I shipped the whole thing back to Raymarine for "flat rate" service, which IIRC was about half the cost of a new unit. They restored everything to original condition.

Oh, also there was an incorrect pin-out diagram floating around, so be sure to download the newest and/or carefully compare wire colors.

If it's not too much trouble to switch on the actual unit I may give this a try. I'll take a look at it when I go back out to the boat.

Thank you for all the great suggestions!