questions about a total refit... boat stands, bulkheads

[Windcaller]

I recently started on a new project restoring a 68 Alberg 30 back into her glory... I have done allot of sailboat restoration but never a complete gut to an empty hull.

1st concern is that I have 5 boat stands 4 flat poppit and 1 v poppit. (mast is down) As I have removed the aft bulkheads I notice that the flat poppits have flattened out the hull slightly where they're placed. I am about to remove the head and main bulkheads but before I do I am concerned about damaging the hull if I have no interior supports. I am thinking about buying two more flat poppit and stands to place three per side... and spread out the hull load better. Or is this even needed.? is four sufficient or should I put a couple temp bulkheads in of garbage ply till i get the main bulkheads done?

One other thing I noticed is that this alberg was on a cradle for close to eight years.. and were the aft pads were there is a small flattened out area, No bulkheads in this area... will this flatten out in time when put in water or over the next couple of years as it no longer has pressure there? or is a repair needed?

Also another comment is that the bulkheads around the head.. one starboard and one port have chainplates attached.. my question is is there a rule of thumb how far from the hull one needs to be to prevent hard spots.. 1/4 or as this boat, that i've never seen on any other boat, it has been glassed in on one side about 1 inch off the hull with no fillet. Just suspended there with one side tabbed. I checked out all the other bulkheads thinking maybe something shifted or pulled away but there all 1/2- 1" from the hull. Really crappy carpentry work to say the least.. and from what i can tell its all original as all the bulkheads throughout fore and aft are exactly the same.
I am going to replace all bulkheads and tab both sides and thru slots every 8 inches.. but is there a min or max space for the fillet.?

Thank you all for your time and reading .. any input would be appreciated.

Oh one last thing in replacing chainplate knees is there any cause why I couldn't increase the length of the knees along the hull.. 4 currently are only about 5 inch from hull horizontally and extend down the hull vertically about 8 inches.. My feeling is that I am wanting to make the knees horizontal 7" and flow down the hull about 15 inches to gain more hull adhesion and thicken them to 1" instead of the 1/2 inch ply that is there now.

Don't expect everyone to answer all these questions but those that have knowledge on any of them would be hella appreciated,

No one needs to say its not cost effective and not worth the value of the boat.. this is my hobby.. sadly now i need to actually sell some of the completed sailboats I have.. lol..

Check out the PO chain plate bolts.. flat head SS threaded bolt ? amazing this boat is not a coral reef

Windcaller

[roverhi]

The weight of the boat should be taken entirely on the keel. Stands are there only to keep the boat from falling over. With a boat like the Alberg 30, it will probably sit on the keel with the pads not touching the hull at all. Boats on the hard can settle a bit especially in areas with frost upheaval so check the pads regularly to be sure they not actually taking any downward force. Deforming the hull will be the result as has happened with this boat. The impressions can be left or fared out with micro balloons and resin and/or additional laminations.

I would use a non rotting, non compressible filler like Starboard for the knees. Chainplates leak which causes the plywood or whatever to rot out. Then you no longer have a solid compression bond between the knees and chain plate unless you crank the bolts so tight the two sides of the frp layup of the knees are drawn together.

You just need some space so the bulkhead isn't creating a hard spot. Once the bulkhead is glassed in with several layers of laminate, preferably both sides, can't come in contact with the hull unless the tabbing to plywood bond is broken. If the plywood is properly prepped, that would only be with a major incident that would probably require a whole lot other repairs. The farther away the bulkhead is from the hull, the harder it is to lay up the tabbing with a proper fillet. If you use epoxy resin, doubtful whether mechancial attachment of the tabbing to the bulkhead would do any good whatsoever. Tabbed the bulkheads in the W32 we built with 4 layers of matt and cloth using polyester resin and they are still firmly adhered after 40 years, 3 trips to SoPac, a couple of groundings and surviving a hurricane at sea.