Cruisers Forum
 


Join CruisersForum Today

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 25-01-2007, 15:27   #16
Senior Cruiser

Cruisers Forum Supporter

Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Chesapeake Region and Maine
Boat: 42' Bob Perry sloop
Posts: 4,038
Images: 4
AWAB makes high quality all s/s hose clamps. West Marine/Boat U.S. stores sell them (at outrageous prices). You can find 'em cheaper elsewhere.

Lots of info on line. Google "Awab hose clamps".

They make the screw type also....never had one loosen or corrode or break. Good stuff; worth the extra bucks.

Whoever said s/s can't be tested with a magnet is wrong: good s/s clamps are not ferro-magnetic, just like your rigging.

Bill
__________________

__________________
btrayfors is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26-01-2007, 02:42   #17
Moderator Emeritus
 
GordMay's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario - 48-29N x 89-20W
Boat: (Cruiser Living On Dirt)
Posts: 31,576
Images: 240
Absolutely ~ use “Smooth” Hose Clamps.

AWAB 316 STAINLESS STEEL SMOOTH BAND HOSE CLAMPS
Goto: ABA of America, Inc. - Manufacturers of high performance hose clamps and quick connectors

And: AWAB LLC
__________________

__________________
Gord May
"If you didn't have the time or money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time/$ to fix it?"



GordMay is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 26-01-2007, 05:04   #18
Moderator Emeritus
 
Pblais's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hayes, VA
Boat: Gozzard 36
Posts: 8,700
Images: 15
Send a message via Skype™ to Pblais
Here is a source of clamps you can actually buy them from. They are not always the cheapest but they have the largest selection and the do Internet sales and ship quickly.

McMaster-Carr

The store is set up like a catalog with a good search tool. Go to Page 239.

It has non perforated SS 336 clamps and Titanium plus on the prior and next pages some other types some more suitable for engine hoses.

There is even a set of Nylon clamps but it's hard to tell how much clamping power they have. They do tell you the proper torque on most of them. For a basic 1 inch hose (22 - 33mm) they say the torque for SS 316 is 44 pounds but for Titatium is only 40. Sorry no metric conversion on the torque but they do have metric converstion for the sizes.

Things that are nice are smooth or rolled edges to prevent cutting. You'll see when you get into the good clamps they don't sell them by the package but one at a time.
__________________
Paul Blais
s/v Bright Eyes Gozzard 36
37 15.7 N 76 28.9 W
Pblais is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 28-01-2007, 15:33   #19
Senior Cruiser

Cruisers Forum Supporter

Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Tasmania
Boat: VandeStadt IOR 40' - Insatiable
Posts: 2,317
Images: 91
All stainless steels are equal, but some are more equal than others! There are standard "recipes" for making any given stainless steel (302, 316, etc). Each recipe has certain tolerances for the amount of each ingredient.
For example, the recipe for 316 stainless is:
16-18% Cr
10-14% Ni
0.25% C
2.0 Mn
1.5-3.0 Si
0.045 P
0.030 S
Balance Fe
The variations can make a difference to both the material's rust resistance and to its "megneticness". Just because a piece of steel is magnetic, it doesn't mean it is not stainless. Also, just because a piece of steel displays rust, doesn't mean it isn't stainless. I have, through my job, worked with various stainless steels, sourced from various parts of the world. 316 sourced from West Germany is a different beast from 316 sourced from Korea.

Having waffled on iterminably, I will just say this: Hose clamps, rusty or not, should be inspected regularly and should be changed periodically regardless of their perceived condition.
__________________
Weyalan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 29-01-2007, 04:00   #20
Moderator Emeritus
 
GordMay's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario - 48-29N x 89-20W
Boat: (Cruiser Living On Dirt)
Posts: 31,576
Images: 240
Magnetic Properties of Stainless Steel(s):

Stainless steels can be divided into four (or more) basic groups based on their crystalline structure, and the elements added to the alloy: Austenitic, Ferritic, Martensitic, and Duplex.

All austenitic grades of S/S have very low magnetic permeabilities*, until cold worked. After substantial cold working Grade 304 may exhibit quite strong response to a magnet, whereas Grades 310 and 316 will in most instances still be almost totally non-responsive. Any austenitic (300 series) stainless steel, which has developed magnetic response due to cold work, can be returned to a non-magnetic condition by stress relieving.
There are two subclasses of austenitic stainless steels: chromium-nickel and chromium-manganese-low nickel steels.

* Permeability is the property used to measure how well a material concentrates magnetic fields.

Ferritic stainless steels are magnetic steels that contain chromium (& carbon), but not nickel.

Martensitic grades are magnetic and contain chromium but usually not nickel.

Fittings and hardware are often made of Type 316 stainless to resist corrosion. They are usually highly polished.
Nuts bolts, screws, and other fasteners, and items where strength and wear are required, are usually made of Type 304.

See also:

Stainless Steels – Introduction To Grades, Properties and Applications
Stainless Steels - Introduction To Grades, Properties and Applications, Supplier Data by Aalco

Magnetic Properties of Stainless Steel
http://www.bssa.org.uk/publications/...Properties.pdf
__________________
Gord May
"If you didn't have the time or money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time/$ to fix it?"



GordMay is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 29-01-2007, 10:33   #21
Senior Cruiser

Cruisers Forum Supporter

Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Cruising NC, FL, Bahamas, TCI & VIs
Boat: 1964 Pearson Ariel 'Faith' / Pearson 424, sv Emerald Tide
Posts: 1,531

Quote:
Originally Posted by colemj
The 304/316 grades of stainless most used for clamps (or at least desired) are not ferromagnetic like mild steel and will not be attracted to a magnet. .....Some grades of stainless are ferromagnetic (401?), but these are not typically found in common parts like hose clamps and fasteners. 304/316 stainless can become ferromagnetic if it has been worked hard or been mistreated in a certain way, so if the magnet does stick to your rigging, you should probably consider immediate action.....

Mark
I stand corrected. I am not sure how I missed this. Thanks for the info.
__________________

__________________
s/v 'Faith' is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Whitlock Control Pod Problem Boracay Construction, Maintenance & Refit 8 09-01-2012 10:29
Magic Stainless Steel Cleaner otgadventures Deck hardware: Rigging, Sails & Hoisting 13 27-06-2007 08:15
Polishing stainless steel Chrisc Construction, Maintenance & Refit 1 30-11-2006 01:47
Autohelm 6000, Control Unit BrendanChandler General Sailing Forum 9 18-06-2006 13:55
Stainless in the galley Brent Swain Provisioning: Food & Drink 0 24-03-2004 15:43



Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:56.


Google+
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Social Knowledge Networks
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

ShowCase vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.